Baldini

Rear wheel bearing broke. This happened immediately after rear wheel had been out. I replaced the broken bearing & it lasted about a mile or so before new one went .... I measured wheel spacer shorter than distance between bearing housings: so with bearing outer hard against the housing, inner/outer races were being misaligned when torquing axle. I don't recall measurements, but I will look if I have it written somewhere, or it will be in a thread here somewhere for sure if you have time to search. Whatever, you can measure distance between bearing housings in your hub to ascertain correct size. I discovered bearings designated C3 have slightly larger internal clearances. I also was advised to tap in bearings using a drift that bears on both inner & outer races equally. I had always driven bearings home using drift against outer race only. Guzzi spec a torque for axle measured at the drive side. I don't know why this is & can only think that drag somewhere in assembly might give different torque readings each side. However, since I did the spacer I had no problems & don't measure torque, just nip it up tight. Cheers, KB

Hi v11F, Yes, your pillion story is very familiar to me ! Compact is a good discription! Whilst the Tonti would get out of shape over bumps, it always felt taught underneath you, whereas the V11S seems to want to go in different directions all at once. I put 38mm Marzocchis on front which was a heck of an improvement, & Konis on the back. I once ride my old Tonti thru that part of France on a long straight thru some woods, an eagle flying low thru the trees keeping pace with me - magical. Lovely country. KB

Yeh, you just have to get as far up front as you can, let it move around under you & trust your tyres...til you hit a series of bumps hard on the throttle or brakes & it can get really knotted up - well, it's scared the **** out of me on a couple of occasions - more so than a big block Tonti ever has. KB

V11S is heavy & carries a lot out back, on a v basic rear suspension design - doesn't help steering. Depends what you're doing, but I found this especially an issue on uneven roads, less so on v few trackdays I did. IME, cornering feel is better & front wheel is more planted w more weight over the front: Sitting as far forward as you can (tho tank design stops you getting right up), leaning forward - as Cabernet is doing; I raised the forks in the clamps a bit (Scura). 170 rear tyre (OME is 180) steers better, tho amount of difference depends on type of tyre -sharper profiled 180 may be as good as rounder profile 170. V11S is a bit flexy: S/A is flimsy; MG dropped chassis/trans mount point that earlier Wittner/Foale spine frames had. Look at the additional bracing under trans they bodged up for 2002-on - why did they do that? It is always going to be very unforgiving on eneven roads. It'd be interesting to know the genesis of the V11Sport. It appears a bodge: new 6 speed box could have had new rear suspension design with longer s/a (& looks designed for such - see the rear trans plate casting, & look at the MGS01). But they used the old chassis designed for the long 5 speed box (cost?). 1200S, Breva etc have a more coherent overall design, including far more sophisticated rear end...they just don't have the style of the old grunter Guzzis. KB

Tyres: Those are BT020's? They'll be 12 years old now & weren't the greatest things when new. Bike handles nicer on a 170 rear rather than stock 180. Not sure earliest a flywheel popped, but I changed mine at 20k miles when it was working fine - found no visible damage or undue wear on it. Scura Ohlins are v softfly sprung. I couldn't get decent sag. I'm about 200lb w gear, & changed to stiffer springs back & front - made a hell of a difference for me. As I recall, stock springing is for rider around 150-160lb. I raised forks slightly in the clamps to get a bit more weight over the front: helped keep it in corners. Check things are greased where they should be, factory didn't always have grease to hand during assembly...check particularly rear drive hub outer needle bearing. Worth changing hydraulic fluids? Also, fork seals tend to go, especially when stood - might be worth getting some in. Pawl arm spring (inside shifter plate) breaks. There's loads of info here if you try search. Again, might be worth ordering one in as a spare. There was an issue w rear wheel bearing spacers, knocking out bearings in v short order. My spacer was too short - I think it distorted when I torqued up axle, (it's made from an old cornflakes box). I made one out of heavier tube, to correct length & it's been fine since. MG specify torque for rear axle 120Nm (housing side). I don't understand why they spec side to measure at, can only think there must be some difference to result due to friction thru the assembly, etc. Anyhow I never took any notice & my spacer collapsed, since I put in a new spacer I still take no notice, just nip it up good & tight & haven't had a problem. Although MG give you a cover to remove/replace oil filter w/o removing sump, I've always dropped sump to do it as do many others. You can get better purchase on the filter to ensure it is tight, & clean out the tray. Some people add a hose clamp to prevent filter backing off. Glad you're liking the bike. They're a lovely, involving ride - last of the hairy-arsed Guzzis!!! KB

Did someone say...clutch? You posted on Wildguzzi re. clutch isssue? I replied re. there. Congratulations! Obviously you are a man of great discernment, Scura is a lovely bike & the best looking of all the V11Sport variants...in my opinion...hey, I have one myself. oh. & suspension... KB

I remember seeing previous pix you posted on track - looks like you're getting the hang of it! Agree w Phil about the boots etc - I used to ride in german paratroop boots from army surplus - I got race boots, but still couldn't keep my toes out of the road, think you get a habit, then your body just fixes itself that way, I'm the same on a mountain bike...donald duck. Maybe just take the sidestand off?

No manufacturer info there. Maybe they had them made up locally? Have you heard anything from Agostinis? As a matter of interest, I came across this dyno comparison: http://www.bikeboy.org/v11sport.html

Do you know manufacturer? Agostinis website shows a piece similar to yours, but with a mount plate fitted: http://www.torquepowermotorcycles.com.au/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=75&product_id=111 Stucchi x-over that I have (below) is basically 2 tubes. It also has a mountplate:

Hi David, yes I saw the facebook pix. It's a nice bike. LM111? Was wondering what the tank was? KB

Hi BFG, Really nice bike. Any build details for it? Local to you? Yes I'm still around, but I'm retired from m/c...at least temporarily...dismantled the Tonti for further modifications...& the Scura spat it's dummy. Everything with a motor in the shed is broke. I'm busy w work etcetcetc. I've taken up mountain biking. Ever get your Tonti LM sorted? Cheers, KB

Scura had a single-plate clutch w alu flywheel. It works great...but some broke, big time. Ohlins are special, otherwise, as BFG says, it's a tarted up second series V11 - albeit the best looking of all of them. BFG - great to see you back here. I don't call in so much now as the Scura broke & I've taken up mountain biking. KB

Personally, wouldn't fancy battery in amongst all the fuel plumbing.

Clearly it's trying to tell you something...

Do pay attention at the back there! ...it was the pushrod. see #48

Rosso Mandello came with a single plate clutch, but yours is retro fitted with a twin plate clutch? Are all your parts compatible? I had in issue w pushrod length fitting a RAM unit to Scura. It was all working good before all this? Sounds like latest problem could be cos it wasn't centred properly on assembly. I once warped an intermediate plate on a Tonti by getting it misaligned - I recall symptoms were similar to what you describe.

Don't take me as gospel, but as far as I know.... The diaphragm spring must be centred in the flywheel - it locates in a housing in the flywheel - but it doesn't matter where you place it radially. RAM instructions give 2-2.2 kg-m (20-22Nm/14.5-16lb/ft) as torque setting for the six outer flywheel bolts - don't see why it shouldn't be same for Scura OE. Also recommend loctiting these. You have to be careful to get (& keep) everything centred when you assemble. KB

Mine leaked. I nipped up the fasteners & that sorted it. Worth checking before pulling it down.

I think mine's worn out:

I think mine's worn out:

It's a Nuevo Falcone. 500 single. Made 69 -76. Quite a few about here, mostly recent imports I guess.

Blimey! He's a fair chap. That is special . Wonder what power it made? Funny how many innovative designs there were around over the years here in UK, but nothing really stuck in mainstream British manufacture & factory racing - whilst others (Italian/German etc) were doing all sorts of stuff. I mean we were racing singles still against the Gilera multis etc & stuff that was innovative never really got a good run - say the Roarer or whatever - but then I suppose the same could be said of Guzzi with the V8, so maybe it's not just us. Longterm, maybe mainstream is the only viable product, & innovation just dripfeeds into that. Sometimes it gets me pissed when you see every week in MCN the latest "special" from some boutique custom shop, which is a few is chopped parts & a paintjob.

It's another Guzzi - 500 triple.

Guzzi - Quattro Cilindri 500, 1930.

I've used Kais in Manchester . Always been helpful for bits & advice tho I never needed any work done. http://www.kais-ohlins.co.uk/