Baldini

Hope you have a good weekend Gyles GoodLuck! KB

It seems to me the worst aspect of the V11 & possibly all the spine frame models (1100Sport, 4 valvers, V11) is the crude rear suspension design, using a v short s/a. That, & a non-to-stiff frame lacking bracing (certainly on V11). Rear end has been addressed on the new models which also have a completely redesigned 6 speed gbox. What does that say about Guzzi's faith in the previous V11 6 speed box? Of the new bikes, I only rode a Breva but that did feel like a more "modern" bike, gbox v slick, slightly gutless motor with a less visceral feel than the V11. Rear suspension felt much more sophisticated. I think the new models coming out of Guzzi are more thoroughly thought through than anything they did since the early 80's. But It depends what you want out of the bike. As Pete says, all Guzzis are pretty motoguzzi-ish...& nothing else is! Maybe it's down to price, availability of a good one local etc. etc. KB

There's hope yet. There's a saying (perhaps someone here knows it?) along the lines of: Before deciding about a man..."walk a mile in his shoes"...(but obviously down the road he walks, not for example around a racetrack). Now, if we could just work on those last few, subtle touches of sarcasm.... KB

At what point does loss of traction become significant? KB

Implicit in "will there ever be a better tyre than X" is "X is the best tyre now". KB

My point is how do you know they're the best ever sport/touring tyre when you didn't try the others? The quoted press report (an evaluation of road performance conducted on a racetrack - ?) has... Dry; Conti & Metz equal top , Wet; Pirelli top, Metz second - hardly conclusive for Metz? IMO most journalists are like the rest of us; their valuations are a mixture of limited experience, prejudice, marketing pressures & prevailing fashion. I'm not saying the Z6 aren't the best tyre ever, I wouldn't know, but neither I think do you! It's the tyre you like best of those you've tried. Me, I don't use sport touring tyres now. Of the ones I tried, I didn't like the BT020, I did like the Diablo. KB

ELVIS (circa 1974) KB

You jacked up the back = steeper steering angle = quicker turn in. KB

Have you tried all the other sport touring tyres currently available? KB

I don't know much myself but - LM11, T3, V11 - all the Guzzis I've had have a flat spot around 4k rpm. I've improved it with breathing & fuel changes on all of them but it's always there to some degree. I've been told many times it's an issue related to head design on this motor. KB

To say any tyres are always the right choice is nonsense. Tyre preference is always subjective & it seems to me most opinion is based on very limited experience of the options available. Most modern radials from major brands seem good. Choice depends on handling & grip preferences, availability, cost & wear. Tyres that grip better wear faster. Wear on any tyre depends entirely on how you use it but can vary from maybe 1k miles for a hard ridden sport tyre to 10k + for a very steady rider on a touring tyre. Performance of some tyres goes off as they wear, others perform fairly consistently. How do you use the bike? KB

Ah! well that clears that one up. I got no such bolts with mine. In fact instructions say to re-use the old flywheel bolts! (Yes I did get instructions). Thanks for your prompt response Phil, I will retire to consider my options... KB

Phil, Don't understand...Direct access? Not that I can see? How did you get bolts thru assembled clutch into crank, let alone get a socket in to torque them up - The diaphram spring is in the way & the holes in it are too small to pass the bolt heads thru??? Either I'm missing something very obvious or we have different kits ?** The only thing I can think of is that you used socket head screws rather than hex heads? You could get a hex key through the holes in the diaphragm... Of course it's academic now anyhow cos first thing I did was dismantle it to compare components with stock... Paul, if no other method presents itself measuring's what I plan to do. Thanks. KB **PS: I get the feeling I'm going to look dumb sometime soon...

In the process of fitting a RAM clutch to 02 Scura, run into an unexpected problem. Can anyone tell me how I can align the clutch, ie. centre the friction plate & pushrod cup/diaphram spring to the crank axis/flywheel? RAM instructions suggest assembling clutch loosely on engine then mating engine/trans to align clutch parts, separating eng/trans & fully tighening clutch bolts. This seems a bit hit & miss to me, esp given that I have to do it by jiggling a *#@* heavy motor around onto trans while simultaneously aligning several hard parts that I can't see ... (I now begin to think it might have been better to remove back end & gbox as I would on Tonti...) I've previously done twin plates on 5 speeds no problem (well first attempt I warped intermediate plate which is why I'm a bit cautious re alignment now) & a 5 speed RAM kit, but there the pushrod cup is removable, giving access to the crank so you can thread in an alignment tool using splined hub. On this RAM kit the pushrod cup is fixed to the diaphragm spring so you can't access the crank, so you can't use the tool.... Any help, very gratefully received... KB

As they said plus... Set of feeler gauges for setting valve clearances. A decent plug spanner that fits well. 27mm ring spanner beats an adjustable for wheel nuts. Funnel for adding oil. Workshop stand. Welcome & Good luck! KB

Very close! Come on over one day - I'll show ya! KB

what's wrong with original? KB

well.... I clean stanchions & grease w Ohlins grease pretty much everytime I take it out, it doesn't see rain, there's not much dust about here... & have RSVR guard! Still managed to get thru 3 sets of seals in 17,500 miles. I wonder if it's to do with set up (oil volume, damping), type of use or amount of time left standing? KB

Martin Barrett suggested leaving it on sidestand could cause seals to take on a set, which seems possible. I now leave bike on shopstand. I also noticed leak after period of sitting unused. Maybe use keeps em lubed, non use leaves em dry out - affects seal? Not sure that it's wear that causes the problem. KB

Ohlins go thru seals v quick. I'm on 4th set at 19k miles. "improved" seals don't do better mileage IME. Ohlins are designed for track not miles. Forks have v low stiction. Low seal life is part of the price. Was bike left on sidestand or centre/shop stand? KB

Guy, sorry I couldn't make it, wish I'd been there, sounds great. KB

I ride motorcycles cos I enjoy the experience, the ride - I accept the risk but it's a blast - I love em. I don't play russian roulette cos I see no fun in the game. I see no fun in risking catastrophic failure of weak equipment when I know that risk & have a choice - no gain - nothing at all - FOR ME.... but each to his own - I choose for me, you choose for you. KB

Last I heard he'd turned to car engines - more money, less grief. KB

Corsa Italiana are very good, have years of Guzzi knowledge & are not cheap. Other possibilities are MotoCorsa (Dorset) - again years of Guzzi experience there, & there's Twiggers (Loughborough). I don't have any idea of cost. Not sure what you mean by "inner bits". KB

Guy, does Jackal have linked brakes? If so, using just one front disc puts twisting load on forks. I have no brace on my old Tonti (38mm Marzocchis) & using just one disc twists forks visibly, & enough to bend my admitedly thin (temporary Ha!) mudguard mounts. I don't find it a problem in use but then I'm not very sensitive to these things. It may be that's what the brace is there to prevent. KB