Baldini

Now not even a possible! Hope you all have a good day. I do hope to get out sometime - will probably go up to Anglesey. KB

Docc, I left em off. It's a bit more faffing around to locate axle but no big deal (I insert something from opposite side to centre spacer, then push axle thru). KB

I also want to do something like this. Cubes is easiest way to grunt & you can't get capacity up on rounhead motor cos of c/case opening/stud distances. I'd like to build a fast roundhead but it seems the easier way to go is use readymade late big motor. KB

Good luck with it Guy. You can't beat a good Tonti! KB

Possible but not probable. KB

Ged, Re clutch: There is plenty evidence here re failures. I am replacing mine which works great & showed no symptoms of failure at 19,000m. This is cos pos consequences of failure is for me too great. When I removed flywheel, tho it doesn't appear to be cracked (I have still to get a shop to crack test it), it was marking up at same places where others have shown cracks. Have you talked with Moto Strada re your concerns about flywheel? From what I have heard they are a good shop. As said above gearbox spring is fairly minor issue now we understand it, & is common problem in all V11's of this period. Seems to me V11's were produced at a time when MG had a lot of problems & this is reflected in stop gap engineering solutions & patchy quality control. Having said that they are a good looking bike, work pretty good & are a very pleasant ride. KB

If you can't obtain decent suspension sag measurements, or can only do that by maxing preload then your spring rates are wrong for your/bike's weight. V11 is heavy & frame is fairly flexible. If you ride them hard they will move about a fair bit, but if they are set up good on correct springs, they seem to settle OK. If you ride like that; make sure you have suitable tyres, don't panic & always carry clean underpants. They are best suited to smooth riding. KB

Look where Edwards was, really struggling at his home GP & he's a decent rider. No question Yamaha isn't the fastest thing out there. KB

I don't think you should attach much importance to magazine tests. Your bike, your riding - it's different for everyone. KB

OWRKS FOR ME TOO KB

qman, There are false neutrals in the Guzzi box. When you replaced sideplate, did you position selector wheels in neutral position (marks aligned, pin sat in short spaced detente on back of top wheel) & selector forks centred in spaces on their shafts? It's a while since I had this apart but as I recall this is a photo of the selector wheels in neutral position (someone correct me if I'm wrong). I'm no mechanic & gearboxes have always confused me, but to my mind it shouldn't matter what gear you stopped in, once you reposition forks you're disengaging engagement dogs anyhow. Again, someone please correct me if I'm wrong? KB

All reports I have heard indicate later Ohlins equipped models were better set up from stock, presumably w stiffer springs included. What is marking on your shock spring? KB You don't have to ride too hard to have the stock Scura chucking you all over the road. And you can't take advantage of the huge range of subtle damping adjustments or set correct sag until you get right springs. But do check he's not already changed em. KB

I weigh 210lb in gear. A rider of my wt will not be able to get suspension to work on stock springs. For us the Scura is UNDERSPRUNG. Pete is at least as heavy as me, so he will need springs at least as heavy as mine. As I recall, stock fork springs are 8.5N/mm. I put in 10N/mm. Shock is 85N/mm, I put on 100N/mm. I think now should have gone slightly heavier on the shock. I think Greg used a 105? Messing round w damping w/o respringing is p***ing in the wind. Pete may wish to quote his wt to a decent Ohlins shop who will rec springs for him. Course he may opt to max preload & bounce merrily around the countryside - he is a free man & I believe, currently on a different continent to the Scura, so quite how he is going to measure his sag figures is anybody's guess. There is a thread somewhere already dealt w all this stuff. KB

Put the selector wheels to neutral position (they should be marked). Position each selector fork so it is centred in it's space on the shaft. That is neutral position. Sideplate should then match up. KB

The more I hear talk about tyres, the more it seems personal preference based on our limited experiences. I have my views , but they never seem to coincide w anyone elses. I got shot of the BT020's cos I found they gave little feedback & would let go w/o warning & then unpredictable too.... & handling went all to s**t when front cupped well before wear limit. I often used Metzelers on Tonti but not so far on V11. Best tyres for fast use I've had on V11 have been Mich Power 2CT's. Grip til you s**t. Diablos & SportAttacks were good too with their own different characteristics. V11 handling, well yes - if you get it planted in a corner it'll track like a locomotive, but just pray you don't need to alter the line or brake suddenly. All that flimsily supported weight's happy so long as you don't make any sudden moves... KB

Pete, For people of normal weight (you & me) the Scura is hopelessly UNDERsprung. I couldn't get decent sag w/o maxing out preload. First thing to do is new springs front & back. Easy enough to do. That makes it rideable. If you want better, next thing is have shock revalved w less high speed compression damping - if you can be arsed. I still haven't done mine & enjoy riding it - well, would do if it wasn't in the shed in bits waiting on me putting in the RAM clutch. 19k miles - flywheel still in one piece but showing signs of same damage as has occurred on others. Otherwise: Scura is far & away best looking of V11's, nice, roomy ride, Ohlins are nicely built if wrongly spec'd & clutch is lovely to use until it explodes. Let me know next time you're UK. Take it easy, Keith

Beats my bit of inner tube hooked round pedal! KB PS (How you getting on w the Sport Demons on the Tonti GuzziJack?)

..... A TONTI ! They should be tight! One is a lock ring to keep other from backing off. I use a long flat screwdriver & a mallet - make sure end has plenty contact area & fits well, so's not to damage nut or anything else in the vicinity....no space for peg spanner unless you do some dismantling... You sure problem's not to do w crash, bearings or tyres? KB

Was the bare frame checked visually/on a jig for alignment? It does seem it's pretty easy to bend these around the headstock/top spine with fairly minor impacts. Motor mounts in timing chest should align fairly well with sub frame when bolts removed (motor supported), if not, could indicate damage. Any oil leaks around cases? Has the bike always had this problem since you got it or has it just cropped up? KB

2yrs old? part worn? How much left on them? worn even? Uneven wear can cause very unsteady steering (eg: BT020's cup bad on front = very uncertain tracking). Dunno Metzelers, tyres vary. another thing to check is s/a bearings - no play? wandering at low speeds/not much lean, sounds to me like a tyre or bad bearing, loose wrong fitted part, st damper etc. rather than suspension tuning (having said that, Ohlins 've got so much range of adjustment they can be set up really bad as raz noted) or somethings bent/broken? Like they say V11 is pretty stable, but has to be ridden s-m-o-o-t-h-l-y. Harsh inputs w/ throttle, brake, wt transfer or steering can get it very flustered. V11's very back end heavy - as mDude said you need to get as much wt forward as possible. Cornering is more planted if you can get your wt onto the front wheel. Raising forks in triple clamps half inch improves things (Mine's Scura w/Ohlins, you have Ohlins? watch for clearances) & obviously getting suspension tuned for you wt etc. When you say you hardened front Ohlins - you mean damping? Scura came w/ soft springs & I had to replace front & rear w/stiffer to get it to work. You shouldn't need vast preload or damping. Dunno your forks/springs? or your wt? but it may well be you need do same? What are Ohlins for/off, they didn't come w/ bike? What bars you got on? With rear wt bias, tall/wide bars can give lot of unwanted rider input, making steering feel vague/unsteady - also luggage/screens etc can unsettle steering. KB

What tyres? Are they worn? KB

Welcome Mick. KB

...til you pass em the first time. Welcome. KB

PAH! - Try Isle of Man Early June or late August . I guess anyone can fit whatever tyre they want - but it's for looks only. No question on any Guzzi there's no big tyre required & the bigger the tyre the worse the handling. Manufacturers rec 5.5" rim will take either 180 or 170. Interesting why you use less front with smaller rear Pete? I presume 170 rear is reaching edge earlier than 180 cos spread is flattening profile. I always figured this was the problem with smaller (160/4.5" or 170/5.5") rear tyre - it would run off tread earlier than bigger (170/4.5" or 180/5.5"). As drknow says - you'll get plenty variation in tyre profiles eg a 180 Michelin 2CT will probably give similar tracking to a 170 BT020 or Continental? Some of the sportier tyres aren't available in smaller sizes. KB

I dropped triple clamps half inch on my Scura. Better steering/more planted in corners. Check clearances. KB