Baldini

16,500miles (26,500km) in 3yrs. 3 x pawl springs (last w/pawl arm - so hopefully sorted) 4 x fork seals (Ohlins - seems they just wear quick, tho Martin suggested keeping it on s/s for long periods may contribute distortion...) rear brake torque arm (rubber bush tore - no real prob, but did it on warranty, new one's doing same, but no play so let it go for now) 2 x rear wheel bearings (too short or self shortened! spacer) that's it really - nothing major. KB That's some miles in 9 months Big J...especially on them bumpy old roads

Me too - tho I'm gettin more & more fond of the Scura the more it does for me, I'll never let the old Tonti go. Check out http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6494&hl= - maybe you could add your T3 photo? ...& Belfast: perhaps nows the time to come clean with a photo on that thread? Welcome to the board Alex, great bikes! KB

...my QUIZ POINT???? KB

After seeing the kit that was going out, I was surprised how well the Guzzi kept up. A few Jap/Duke riders surprised too I think if all they know of the Guzzi is from the press/stats etc... Given 80+HP/250+Kg & the road tests etc would have you believe a Guzzi's an underpowered, outdated, lardy old bag of nails that should have no place on a track. Sure the straights at Ty Croes are pretty short & you probably have to ride it a bit harder, but the Scura did better than most would ever give it credit for, & more than held it's own. It'd stay with the 600's/749's on the shorter drags between corners. The big Jap fours & 916/999 Dukes would walk away on the straights but only when they'd managed to get the power down out of corners while the Guz was already on full throttle & closing (less power has some advantages!). The big Dukes especially were difficult to stay with, they got so much grunt they put down so quickly. Another thing I noticed which I noticed last time too; gearchange is pretty flawless on the track, v quick & precise - feels/works much better than on the road. Didn't miss or fluff one change all day. On the road I bodge quite a few. Not sure if difference is in more focus by me or the bike just responds better to track speed changes? Anyone else notice this? Used the clutch all day. I think Ohlins stuff may make a big difference over stock stuff on track too. There's just so much meaningful adjustment & it works so well. The Michelin Power 2CT's were *kin amazing. Just stuck like glue, turned lovely. Never let go. Tyre warmers? slicks? Bah! Don't think I'll get a whole bunch of miles tho. Guy, Look forward to seeing that clip...if I can ever download it on this old steam powered PC... Thrashed the nuts off it all day & rode it home without a complaint ... :mg: yeh! MOTO F*in GUZZI ! KB

Great day! to Guy & Mal & their support crew! Thanks! I got a bit worried when it seemed like we were the only ones turned up without tyre warmers, but had a great day. Warm & sunny, well organised, interesting circuit Hope you all had a good ride home. KB

Some have reported seeing oil light after sharp bursts of hard acceleration. Pos that oil is moved away from pick up in sump & pump can be briefly starved. For this reason it may be advisable to keep sump topped to max. I measure oil level: Run motor for a minute or so, & shut down. Stand bike vertical. Screw dipstick fully home & remove to read. KB

A gentleman's response! Buy this man a drink KB

Belfast, Manual 7282-04A (R1 on front) has changed since I first downloaded it 3 yrs ago. Then, it showed same air gap spec (80-110mm range) as other manual (07280-02). Now it shows range of much larger air gap. As you say neither manual conforms exactly with our forks. KB

I'm told the factory spec card shows no major difference . The forks are OK really & may be same as later ones? The shock is the problem, being (IMV) too harshly damped over sudden bumps. Both ends came too softly sprung for heavier riders. Respring helps a lot. Dunno if later had stiffer springs as stock - that could explain better reaction from riders? KB

Belfast, Did you measure air gap before draining? I measured 141mm w/o spring from stock. I checked w/ 2 Ohlins shops, both said 85mm air gap w/ springs in place (about same as I'd measured). That's how I came to it. I'll have another look at the manuals when I get a chance. Cheers, KB

Yeh, 145 w/o spring would be about right. http://www.ohlins.com click click go to Owners manual Road & Track Front Fork (part # 7282-02) also R&T Front Fork FG43 (part# 7282-04A). KB

1. Rebound adj at top in fork top nuts. Compression adj at fork bottom. 2. Not clear how you're doing this. Air gap is measured with fork outer legs fully down on stanchions, springs in place. Measure from top of fork outer leg to oil level surface to get reading. I use a vernier gauge (these have a rod that's used as depth gauge). I have 95mm air gap. 3. Adjust spring preload to give between 25-33% sag (w/rider). Best to set it up for yourself rather than use other peoples settings. 4. Yeh. I raised forks so that third ring is flush w/top of bar clamp. Check for clearances at mudguard/brake lines etc. but should be no problem. 5. Yeh, that's right. Not sure, what manuals you're looking at but there's stuff on I'll see if I can dig out a link. Best, KB

Stand clear - Egos at work.... Yeh, sure! The safest thing to do would have been to let em go, catch em later. Your gettin involved just adds another thing for them to have to deal with. Well done! Gettin involved in any way with other road traffic, esp unkown vehicles, is asking for trouble, like Trispeed says. But don't most of us do it occasionally? Sometimes I just can't help it, even tho I know it's ultimately stupid, dangerous & proves nothin.....Wish I could kick it, cos at the end there's no real satisfaction to be had out of it less you're happy to fool yourself. KB

...I think you're right! 170 improves turn-in no end, gets rid of the wait for the back to follow the front in... KB

Thanks. Turned out Dragon did have a 2004 manuf date so I didn't get them. Put on some Michelin Power 2CT's, they look to have a more triangular profile than the Diablos & not sure how they'll suit the bike but I was wondering if they'll help turn-in..... .....speaking of which...Mike: bike does turn better w/170 & no downside I found except I figured (in theory) at the extreme it would run off tread earlier than the 180 cos it would have a flatter profile across the 5.5" rim - so I went back to 180. Anyone tried the Michelins? KB

Was gonna fit a set of Diablo Corsas, but been offered a set of Dragon Evo Corsas much cheaper (Dragon is superceded by Diablo in UK, but I'm assured they're not old stock as Dragon is still available in Europe...). Anyone experience to compare performance/handling on both? 02 Scura. Thanks. KB

Cos he's again - POINT PLEASE. KB

Ah well, least you'll have somethin you can look forward to improving! I'm surprised 110's are that hard to get, but least you'll have it on the road, & 120 is not gonna ruin it, in fact some people prefer the slower handling. KB

So you want a second rate series cos you think you'll see closer racing? We're lucky to be around to see one of the greatest riders the sport's ever seen. The man's f'in awesome - ask Nicky Hayden - when he leaves, whatever the racing, it will be less. KB

For all bikes I think. I spoke w/ Amadeo (Raceco) long time back & he told me 0.20mm in/0.25mm ex was best for my stock V11 (as Dave notes from their website). They used even bigger clearances on their racebikes. Note that Guzzi spec'd 0.22mm (.0086") clearance both in & ex on old Tontis. KB

Thanks for the information Tim Could you post your frame no? I'd be interested to collate a list of frame no's re Scuras w & w/o clutch problem - anyone else? Paul do you know the no off the Scura you had? J O'S? Roberto? Thanks. KB

Or http://rebootguzzispares.com

I still haven't figured why the frame rails have to run so high over the motor - the ret of it you can sort as you see fit... KB

funny how they get you isn't it... KB

Front tread pattern looks v similar to old ME33. Rear is v different pattern to old ME99. They were good tyres, I'll bet the new ones'll be good too Do you know what the equivalent Pirelli is? KB