Baldini

A lot of people run 120's. Why? I tried one was cos I thought it'd look better. I immediately went back to stock size. In my view there's no question: on stock rims, 110 works better. If you're happy that's fine, but I know for myself the disadvantages; what are the advantages of running a 120? KB

I think std Scura fork springs are 8.5 or 9.0 (I've been told Ohlins spec card lists 9.0). Std rear is 85. I was also on max preload to get sag. I swapped springs to 10 front, 100 rear. Much better - brought adjustments into useable range. Forks are OK now (tho would likely be better with revalve). Shock is still harsh over sudden bumps - I think it's high speed damping is set too hard - been meaning to get it done.... KB

What time is what?

...not here it **** ain't... KB

My writing did not make my meaning clear. Hopefully I have corrected in my edit. Re ideology/signs - I think I understand what you are saying but do not understand what point you are making? KB

Sincere art, is the same as sincere science - they are both forms of primary research - the search for some kind of truth/beauty in the things around us. Much, both in art & science, masquerades as genuine research, but in truth is merely a cynical expending of grant-bought time, with no real aim other than box-ticking to assure the next cheque. You do both art & science a diservice if you say they may be judged exclusively by either subjective or objective criteria. The view that art can only elicit a response from the emotions & cannot be viewed objectively is one reason why our public galleries are filled with dross & why most people feel disconnected from it (I can't understand it, but art is subjective, I'm told it's good, it's in the art gallery; so it must be valid). The view that science is purely objective disallows the fact that we have limited knowledge & that scientists have imagination. To my mind Richard Feinman was a great artist as Paul Cezanne was a great scientist. Subjective/objective?... both are fundamental in any sincere work - without either, art or science is less. KB :sun

Aha! Shame! You resort to sarcasm .... the lowest form of wit COBBLERS! but no, I haven't thought of literary criticism - it is, like all other criticisms - a job for parasites..... KB

...pah!!! ! ....gulp!!! !

BOLLOCKS KB

0.20mm inlet, 0.25mm exhaust

Bruce, Spring replacement is pretty straight forward. Dunno why you should do one at a time - less you got a bad memory. I did both forks at same time, no problems. Ohlins tool for top nuts works great but you could bodge something if you don't want the expense. Used a large washer with a slot cut into it (so it'd slip over damper rod) to hold spring down whilst you undo top nuts from damper rod. Be sure to clear all old oil out - you can't just tip em upside down, takes a bit of pumping. But be very careful when you're purging forks not to lose small valve that will float up & pop out of top of long thin tube when you pump forks. Rear spring will slide off bottom of shock after undoing adjuster rings & removing collet. Can leave mounted to bike at top. KB

Thanks Martin! Good grief we were lucky with the weather - it's dry again today but back to cloudy, freezing & with a biting cold NE wind - just like before. Many thanks to whoever or whatever shone on us yesterday ! KB

Thanks Martin, but still no joy. Kodak link doesn't show them, just a generic Kodak page. Can't click on the little red x boxes either as cursor doesn't show me a little pointy finger when it touches them. Dunno what IE is? Basically I'm a PC duffer & perhaps I deserve to stay in the dark....maybe it's better I don't see them anyhow Gary - how did you view them? KB

If they continue in their own restricted area they will be left stunted & unsure of the ways of the world. Perhaps the time has come for the walls to come down & for these people to be returned to the wild, where they may learn to fend for themselves & confront their delusions. KB

Scura on track - stock, w/std cans (raised & moved in a bit) but removed stand: It's a big heavy bike, w/too much weight at rear. I suspect the frame/swingarm are not strong enough when really pushed, S/a is v short so harder for suspension to control, but that's all pretty much same on 1100 sport isn't it?. V11 tank shape doesn't let you get forward to get your weight over the front end so you can't plant front in a corner, it feels vague & prone to running wide mid corner on. Ground clearance was a problem in as much as the first part to hit was r/h can & that would hit hard. Hit nothing on left but tracks differ. Would feel much more comfortable if footrests hit first so's you knew where you were, but these are set high. 180 tyre is too wide - front turns in then you wait for back to follow. Brakes are OK but it's a big lump to stop & I found handling, weight & grip were limiting factors. Power wise: well, find a track with a short straight!!! But delivery is fantastic , while all the mega hp japs are scared of putting the power down on exits just drive the Guzzi out. Much less time spent concentrating on gear changing too. Gbox worked flawlessly on track, much better feel than on road, & upchanges w/o clutch were v slick. Since then I raised the forks in the clamps which improved front end feel loads. Tried a 170 rear which improved turn in no end. I put higher cans on. It's difficult to sense the limit now & I'm afraid of tyre letting go before anything touches down esp when they get hot. Diablos are great, grippy & v predictable & slow when they do break away but I'm going to try Corsas next. Also put a longer hero blob on the footrests to get a feel from them, but not been on the track since. As Ratchet says, suspension set up makes a lot of difference to handling & clearance. Getting off a race bike onto a V11 roadbike - it's pretty much an irrelevant comparison in so many ways isn't it? & we're talking about track days here aren't we - not racing - that's a different thing again. Set up for a trackday a V11 will go far better than it has any right to! KB

Martin, I can't see any of the pictures - just get a little red x in a box saying user posted image - do I have to do something technical to see them? ta, K

it's not a race bike but...can gain a fair bit of clearance by moving things around a little. cans'll move up & in a bit with some playing with the brackets.....&....take the f'n stand off at the track? KB

Mission accomplished! Thanks for your company Martin & Will - hope you both got home fine Keith

Belfast, the battery I put in the Tonti is a PC625 (Hawker Odyssey) - v.small (frees up a lot of space under the seat), works great, loads of cranking power. Sat for months w/o any charging - started up straight away ...dunno how long they last as it's only been in a year or so. Don't think a std trickle charger works on these (there's a thread on this somewhere) but then they don't appear to need it, & they don't have a lot of capacity. KB

OK KB

10am would be a more civilised hour....or even later...as you like - I could always join in later..... KB

Depends what you want off the bike. For me: grip & handling, not so fussed about mileage (within reason). Didn't like BT020's - handling, wear pattern on f (like beauchemin says), or grip. Changed to Diablos - better in all respects except mileage which is down a wee bit. Diablo Corsas or maybe Michelin Pilots next. KB

Or a big screwdriver.

broken ring?