Baldini

hey Martin! you should get together with nephew: think he needs ejukatin...... KB

Just checked mine - after bit over 650 miles it took a little under 200cc to bring back to max on stick, which seems about same as usual. Long time back, this problem was discussed on Centauro site - think one solution was keep filled to max (& beyond!). But that's no solution if the bike won't hold max. I know there are some might think i should keep my mouth shut when it comes to levels of fluid intake but .....you sure you are making consistent measurements? I do engine run from cold a minute or so, bike vertical, dipstick screwed home....& fill to max mark .........except Friday nights when the lines can become a little blurred From partsbook engine breather system seems simple: Pipe from crankcase (clutch end) to bottom rear of headstock vents crankcase pressure to frame. Pipe from top rear headstock vents air (maybe some oil mist) to airbox. Pipe at bottom left rear of spine drains any oil settled in frame back to sump. There appear to be no valves in the system (Tontis had a couple of one way valves that could stick causing problems). There appears to be no vent to atmosphere. So if oil isn't being ingested, burnt or leaked it's hard to see where else it could go. My guess is oil is going thru intake side when high speed use builds up c/c pressure. KB

...if you insist Pete, Not sure what good oil consumption should be. Wonder how it varies with running in procedures? KB

It isn't difficult. Back off preload. Unscrew fork tops from legs. There is a special tool to undo fork tops (expensive - about £50), but you can make something up to do the job. I bought the tool as I figured on keeping the bike so I'd be doing the job a few times (....& how right i was!). Remove preload tube. You need a tool to hold down tube against spring pressure whilst accessing nut securing top nut assy to piston rod. A washer same OD as the preload tube with ID to accept piston rod & a slot cut in it to width of rod (looks like a letter C) works fine. Pump forks to evacuate all old oil, & to expel all air when filling. VERY CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE SMALL BRASS VALVE ASSY that sits in thin damper tube & tends to shoot out the top as oil builds up in tube... . I used large flat screwdriver to knock off scrapers/dustcaps (pushfit). Remove wire retaining circlip. I used screwdriver to lever out seals, getting a purchase on the inner seal face & levering against a piece of ally plate laid across the housing. CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE SEALING SURFACE OF LEG. Don't forget to insert washer before drifting in new seal. Do you have Ohlins R&T43 manual? Think it's at find R&T forks. There's info, spec & parts diagrams. If you can't find it let us know & I'll dig around or email you copies. KB

John, The seals are Ohlins parts, supplied as latest spec for the R&T forks. Ohlins shop said the idea of the ext lip is to push any dirt that gets past the scraper/dust cover away from the sealing surfaces...we'll see I'm using the red Ohlins grease. I believe that is spec now rather than green, tho I don't know what the difference is. Anyhow, Ohlins shop supplied for these forks so I assume it's correct. Bike is mostly only out in good weather & I keep it clean, so it ain't that that's causing leaks. I don't wheely it but roads are fairly bumpy sometimes, it's set up fairly stiff & I do use full travel. Shop reckoned Ohlins are sports orientated & run fairly relaxed seals to minimise stiction Most sports bikes simply don't do the miles, so I guess replacement mostly isn't a problem to them. Yeh, keeps the oil fresh! BTW how's your clutch holding up? Did you have it apart? Take care, KB

Auldy, Re the seals. I'm on 3rd set in 13K miles. They seem to go quick. Latest set I just put in have an extended lip which is sposed to help. check you get these. (course they may not be any better!) Also I mean to fit an Aprilia style mguard should give stanchions more protection. KB

Far as I could tell the Breva was down on torque to the V11 across the rev range. It picks up at 5/6k like a V11 but probably not to the same peak power. The fuelling seemed well sorted, no bad flatspots & very, very smooth. Redline is still 8K. It didn't have the bottom end grunt of the V11, nor according to specs, the top end power (but there's not much in it there I wouldn't think). Exhaust/intake/PC111 have given more torque, power & driveability to my V11. Wonder what same would do for the Breva. It has been designed to meet latest Emmissions regs, & maybe is a bit strangled. If crankcases are new & they have plans for it you'd think they'd spread the studs. But same dealer also mentioned 70deg V motor w/intake above/exhaust below (seen photos this here I think) is ongoing. Re the s/a, I think it's that it's a lot longer than previous that makes it better, not that it's single sided (which, as you say is probably for convenience/looks). Back end felt very good, but I didn't ride it long & I'm off the Scura ... The Breva has a "Jap" feel not in that it makes bundles of top end, but that it feels like a turbo'd sewing machine.......like a SR500 isn't like a B33..... it is easy to ride, comfortable, smooth (no torque reaction or heavy/low frequency vibes), & it needs to be revved to go quick(ish). Also seems sorted out of the box. Seems that's what sells a roadbike. KB

Martin, I've heard of oil starvation damaging engines when feed sucks air under hard acceleration. I think it's best filled to max mark. Oil light shouldn't be on at all with engine running - ever. KB

yeh KB

yeh - you screw it right in... belfast - you checked your email? KB

Sustained high speed on older Guzzis they'd usually chuck oil out the crankcase breather. Dunno what the breather system is on the V11 (into frame?) but if it's not leaking, not burning it & your running at high revs for longish periods my guess is it's venting it ... I check oil same as BigJ & as Belfast notes - i like to keep it topped up. KB

he said the whole motor was new, crank & everything. It certainly feels like it's got lighter internals, a bit buzzy yeh - more japanese. It's got a flashing red light comes on at 7K telling you it's time to change gear, think red line was same 8K tho. maybe it's designed capable of more revs in future - like for in a sports bike? KB

I prefer the feel of V11 motor. It's got more bottom end & pos midrange, (tho mines's got cans etc so it's just what i remember of std one. Dunno what more could be easily had out of the new motor with same mods) but new box & drive seems to work great, i mean loads better. I didn't think it looked as bad in life as in the photos & it doesn't look worse than a BMW which i imagine is the point... Moving alternator means they've been able to mount the motor further forward which can only be a good thing. KB

...heh! heh! you think so? very funny.... yeh he said there'd be a MGS01 style bike using the Breva motor/trans, & Cali, he's ridden the Griso said it was great (different frame to the Breva). Had a quick go on his Breva 1100. Gearbox is very sweet, really slick like a Jap box, much, much better change than the V11. Steers really nice, suspension felt good, esp rear end with long single side s/a made V11 feel crude. Seat very comfortable & generally looks really well thought out. Some really nice little touches like the unobtrusive pannier mounts, angled tyre valves. Didn't feel like it had as much bottom end/mid range as the V11 but revs well & was pretty smooth. Can see how it would be more appealing to mainstream tham previous Guzzis, another step down the same path.....he's got a waiting list on them, guess that's good news. KB

I agree, but I think we worry too much about tyre pressures. Maybe I'm insensitive but in normal use, 2lb either side of correct isn't critical to me. I also find gauges vary a lot but, over time, learn which ones are closest to average & therefore probably correct(ish).... Trouble I had with pencil gauges is stiction affecting reading. I once wrecked a new tyre in a few laps on track on a very hot day. It was about 4 or 5 lbs out as I recall... The things hardly ever fit: I carry an angled valve adaptor. KB

I read that thread - what's in it to bother Mike ? seems pretty easy going to me. ...watch em when they really get going - slavering hyenas. there's some folks on there really got some baggage. - don't fear for Enzo, he's protected by the strength of his delusions.... KB

If I can, I will go. I can't say yet cos of family commitments. KB

are all the parts clearly labelled....? I don't want to be driving thru Ireland with a steadily increasing collection of nuts, bolts, baling wire & Fergie tractor parts... See ya there! Hope you have a good ride. Keith

Well, I do like a small sherry before tea on a Sunday...

Big J, what you drinkin...? KB

Hey Mr Belfast that'd be great. Ferry's due in 12.20pm - Stena Express - Cat I think. See you then? KB

I'm going! I was figuring on camping at the site - what's others doing? See you there. KB

Soren, Do you know what the problem was? Broken spring? 300km in 4th - sounds like a long trip. I've had 30 or 40 miles in 3rd (pawl arm spring) a couple of times....hopefully sorted now... KB

Soren, Was this a recall? What work was done? We have had no recall AFAIK in UK on Scura? Thanks, KB

I have a Scura, 2 yrs old/ 12,000 miles. Paint & finish is still good. Bike goes great. Parts I had on warranty: Gbox pawl spring x 2 (broke @ 3500 & 7000 miles) Gbox pawl arm (undersize spring boss)) R brake torque arm (chewed up bush) R wheel bearing spacer (too short) R wheel bearing I have not heard of any recall on the Scura. The gbox pawl arm is a known problem affecting some bikes. There is a MG service bulletin about it. It may be worth removing cover to check pawl arm spring boss is correct size. There is thread about this if you search. It may also be worth checking tightness of all fastenings & seeing if there is lube where there should be. Esp check outside roller bearing in rear drive box is lubed. KB