Baldini

Are you not sposed to use a trickle charger (Optimate) on the Hawker Odyssey? Do you use a 4 - 5 amp car type charger? Thanks, KB

Enzo, put it on the track. KB

Battery failure is a known fault. There is a Factory service bulletin regarding "short lifespan of the ESA SPARK 500E battery" (original fitment). Dealer replacement as Jaap says: YTZ12S. The original SPARK 500E battery is manuf by Hawker (it's on label) but I have been told by a dealer that it is spec'd for auxilary lighting or somesuch use & looks like Guzzi were just cutting costs with a low spec'd battery not up to the job... I have replaced with Hawker Odyssey. KB

Hi Eamonn, welcome to the site. I also have a 77 T3 - they're great bikes. KB

Heh! Me too! KB

Welcome. Re the Ohlins: I have an 02 Scura, not sure how similar the Ohlins set up is stock but I'm about 210lb w/gear & found swapping to stiffer springs (1.0 from .85) was necessary. If you can't set sag w/o upping preload to near max you need the springs. Also raised the forks about 15mm in the triple clamps which made a big improvement to feel on front & overall balance. There's loads of threads on this if you do a search - ohlins set up or similar. Also find they eat fork seals. Good luck, hope the Guzzi works out for you. KB

Don't think mine's got any of that - is it US only? I remember there was a bit of old tape that was hanging off in the overspray but it didn't look like anything much.... KB

I set mine at .20 & .25mm. KB

Try doing it with tank pretty much empty if you can. First time I did it I flooded the shed with fuel - twice. But I have the manual petcock & it wasn't turning completely shut - unknown to me. Next time I did it I was dreading the job but turned out very simple. Have some rags handy to mop up the fuel that will inevitably spill out of the hoses. Make sure you nip up the hose clamps tight when you're done - see Belfastguzzi's recent adventure..... KB

not as far as i know

Belfast, BigJ, Check the graph I posted on the dyno thread. Moto Corsa downloaded a map off Guzzitech for a bike with mods similar to mine. Bike ran good with that, better than with just Guzzi Ti kit ECU which had it really rich. But it runs better again with remap specific for the bike - see the graph. You can feel the difference - just smoother on the throttle throughout the rev range. KB

I'll contact Mike Russell-Clifford at Moto Corsa re the files & map. I know nuthin about this stuff or how to get it to you, but he does. The dyno is at Crescent Suzuki, who run the Suzuki superbike team in UK. Guess they know their stuff. Like you say it's about rideability. They told me there's a couple of full throttle runs (which produce the graphs) & then they tune the FI on a feathered throttle via the PC111 thru the rev range at 500 rev intervals. Did I get that right? I used to be a bit cynical about the PC111 but it certainly seems to do the job, & I don't really see how else I could have the bike running so well so easily. Maybe he just doesn't have the marketing budget but Cliff's My15M sounds too involved for an oik like me & there aren't tuners familiar with it to sort it for me. KB

Have added dyno chart to baseline dyno thread. KB

V11 SCURA Guzzi Ti kit (cans/ECU) Stucchi xover Drilled airbox lid/K&N PC111usb Blue is PC111 using map downloaded off Guzzi tech for eqivalent mods. Red is with PC111 dialled in on dyno. Bike is very driveable from 2500rpm thru to limiter, no real flatspots. Work arranged Moto Corsa on Crescent Suzuki Dyno. As a comparison, they reckon standard V11's have shown a little less than 70HP. KB

Dynoed it. shows 83.73 HP at wheel. 66.81 ft-lbs torque. Ti cans/ECU, Stucchi xover, drilled airbox lid, K&N, PC111usb. Getting PC111 sorted on dyno has smoothed it right thru, it's very driveable from 2500 to limiter no real blips. It is noisier than I'd like but i've ridden worse. They reckoned a std V11 will show a little under 70HP. Will post the dyno chart when i get a chance. and it didn't rain at all...all day... KB

Thanks for all advice. I drilled 19 x 16.5mm holes cos I had a !6.5mm bit.... It does make a bit more of a honk on open throttle but not a lot louder. Just run it about 15 miles with stucchi/PC111usb/drilled box & K&N on top of the Ti kit that was there already. I'm pretty useless at noticing how things work but there seems to be a bit more bottom end & it feels a bit more eager through mid range. Getting FI & PC111 set up on dyno tomorrow hopefully so we'll see...Dyno's 230 miles away & it's been pissin down Thanks again. KB

Thanks for replies. I don't want loads of induction noise so maybe I'll leave airbox stock & just put in K&N. The one thing sticks in my mind is Amadeo @ Raceco once said "the intakes are so small I'm surprised it breathes at all". Does opening the airbox really help? I've used pods on the Tonti for years & like Al, don't find them that loud. Maybe it's the different airflow, perhaps airbox is noisy cos it's still pulling air thru an aperture, maybe speeds up flow? Trouble is I got a dyno appt Thursday so need to get something decided .... Thanks again. KB

Is changing the fuel filter on the 02 bikes straight forward? Just disconnect & replace? Anything I need to know? Thanks, KB:sun:

Got a K&N filter to put in airbox & was going to drill/cut top. Any views on best way? Lot of little holes or a few big holes or does it really matter? Thanks, KB

KB

& the pope's a protestant... KB

It's available sure enough - I just put it in gearbox & bevel box. Red Line say it's fine for Guzzi but then I guess they would. I know nothing about workings of oil so all I see is there's two viewpoints here - some say it works great. I read the threads on this last year - I thought I'd give it a go. But hell it sure is thick from the bottle ...I don't want to upset any of me bearings .... Red Line say "...can be rated as a 75W250 Gear oil but has the lower internal fluid friction of an SAE75W90"...so does low internal fluid friction = low viscosity = no ball bearing skidding? Or should I best not concern myself with these things (after all, I failed my physics O level twice) ... & just drain the lot out & replace with what the book says? KB

Well I got em on. Following Ratchethack's & Belfasts experiences I did a mix of both (shortened l/h xover exit by little less than an inch, a little off r/h header, a little bending w/o heat) & got things looking good. So thanks. Thanks to all the posted knowledge on this, I knew the problems I encountered had been solved by others & how they'd done it. Made it much easier, otherwise I'd've considered sending the thing back. After what Belfast said, I was surprised that it wasn't noisier. As the Guzzi Ti cans are straight thru absorbtion type, I'd also figured the std xover must silence the system even tho there's nothing much in it. To me the Stucchi really doesn't seem to add a lot to the noise, least at low revs...but I haven't ridden it yet so we'll see. I don't like riding real loud bikes on the road, draws attention, makes you tired & upsets people. Also someone somewhere posted that the Stucchi is heavier than the std xover. Mine isn't, including bracketry, it was a little lighter. Thanks to all who contribute to this board. KB

Try emailing for local stockists. KB

Ratchethack, I'm having same problems. Sounds like you solved it by fitting the xover slightly skewed from the bike centreline...you pushed the right front of crossover further up the header, left front further back so bringing rear of xover over to right. Hence you move right can further out & left can in. Correct? Left can will then be further back than right - did you also shorten left xover exit pipe to push can further on to it? Thanks, KB