Baldini

You can get adaptors for Pentax lenses to Canon etc threads eg: http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=pentax+canon+adapter I have Canon stuff & don't know about Pentax, or cameras generally... but I do think today's amateur/semi-pro cameras are like most modern appliances: heavy on features, light on robustness. I have an 40D - card-reader just packed up - no abuse, just stopped working. I notice the latest 60D is plastic body. These cameras have to be built to a price & features are more seductive than build quality! The speed of technological development means immediate obselescence, so what's the point on building a product to last anyhow? We're seduced by technology, big numbers & features we'll never use. Someone'll tell you they've got a eleventeen million pixel point & shoot...that's great, but what quality is the lense? I don't want/need most features - I don't even open most of the vast handbook. I want a simple, quality, usable, lasting product. I have a 1960's Pentax SLR - still works, heavy but so nicely built. Compare the lense action on one of them to that of a modern Canon plastic USM. I would like a video feature on a DSLR (40D doesn't have it), but is it just compromising the primary function & would a seperate camcorder would be a better bet - they are relatively cheap. KB

...it's there in Monkey's photo.

That may well be, but I think I'd take it out & have a look before assuming the same issue, it's not as if he can use it meantimes...& maybe it's something else. I've heard it said that assumption is the mother of all cock-ups. KB

Maybe I'm missing something but surely if J Bastida's got the spring out to find it's broken, he must also have access to the pawl arm to check the size? No point in his waiting on a new pawl arm if one he's got is correct size? KB

Thanks for trawling that up BFG. That long armed bloke looks vaguely familiar - the Cat in The Hat? Interesting to see people combining what they're into with making a living. When I was a kid I used to make all kinds of vehicle models, the US custom car kits were favourite & I modified them & scratch built parts. A few years back I tried building a car model, but just got bored with it. Did a jigsaw puzzle the other day - it was a map of the world - enjoyed it. KB

Have measured the diameter of the post on the pawl arm you have now? KB

F*** that's a shame. Can you bump start them things? Bah! Just shoot the F***in thing, seems like it's been nowt but trouble. Sorry to hear you missed your holiday. Good luck, you deserve some. KB

Clutch gear for twin-plate is MG part no. 04211600 (Jaap's pix also show clutch gear for single-plate RM with a different part number - make sure they know you want part for twin-plate clutch). KB

Hi Michael. Sorry to hear more problems you're having. I just phoned 3 UK shops most likely to have stock & none do. One said it's showing in stock at MG Italy...other 2 said it wasn't, tho it is listed as still an available part. One offered to phone MG see what the score was. It's the standard V11Sport twin-plate one you need, right? Have you checked all main shops to see if any have one in stock - Agostinis in Mandello? Steine Dinse in Germany? Moto International, MG Cycle & Harpers in USA? Presuming you already tried TLM! Sometimes emails are pretty easy to let hang, telephone can get a better response or at least gauge what's the score a bit better. I think all main European shops have English. KB

Sounds like maybe you have a sticking piston? Get the caliper off, clean up & check pistons are moving freely. As Lucky Phil says above, you should be able to easily push the pistons into caliper body til piston outside face is more-or-less flush with caliper body. KB

I have enough problems remembering which way's up in the mornings never mind which lever me brake's are on today. Guess you can do anything if you put your mind to it, but me - I work on the KISS principle. KB

Michael, while you've got it apart...what state are your swingarm bearings in? Also - did you check alignment of the driveshaft halves? KB

I don't know much about it & apologies if I misunderstand, but if you simply plumb the rear m/c up to one front + rear disc, & leave single front disc on normal front m/c, won't your m/c:piston ratios will be all wrong? KB

I had similar a LM11 & a T3, & loved the linked brakes too - work just as you say. I'm sure it can be done to link a V11 but I delinked Tonti to fit with habit of riding V11. Thre is a thread here, but it doesn't tell you much, mailnly not to do it & where Kentucky is: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17486&st=0 Maybe a more experience with modern brakes would help feel? Practice braking front hard til you get a feel for limits & action? Linked system is/was v good, but then so are modern brakes on V11. You could also try swapping pads, some are more grabby than others. KB

Don't know specifics, but I think you'll find the m/c pistons are sized appropriately for the calipers they activate. If you change piston area they have to work on braking performance will be affected. I went other way & delinked Tonti - changed f m/c & rear caliper. KB

Aggers & Johnners "Couldn't quite get his leg over..." Any Brit has probably heard this a hundred times (& maybe you need to be British & juvenile to find it remotely amusing)... still, for you johnny-foreigners out there: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3k0qZDdfvZk Listening the day this was broadcast in 1991, couldn't believe it was going out live on the BBC ...Brian Johnston, RIP. KB

thanks! Nearly fell off me chair. (Antonio - that joke about the president & the pilot - it's that the dad doesn't give a monkey's about what his daughter achieves, only his son...) KB

Island? It's pretty quick there Did you cut the rubber stop back yet? Or just remove sidestand in paddock - see in photo how restricting it is. What tyres? I love Oulton Park. Very flowing but technical too - over Clay Hill thru Druids is real interesting. Always thought it'd be too fast for the Guzzi, but the chicanes slow the back part down & when you ride it, the straights are shorter & more complex than they look from spectating. KB

Sounds about right to me, but I dunno - look how they're listed here: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/tyres Try selecting with the options bar on the left...if you select sport/toring only Angel comes up, but sports brings all the others...hours of fun... Not mentioned on Pirelli site: http://www.pirelli.com/tyre/gb/en/motorcycle/catalog.html Pirelli range confuses me. Anyhow, I wouldn't bother too much about it, like you say just wear em out & get some new ones. KB

Bob, have you tried Pirelli Sport Demons? From what you say, I reckon they'd suit you. I went from BT45's onto them. Great grip, handling, feedback, & tho they wear quick they wear very evenly. Never heard anyone who's tried them say they'd go back to BT45. They're great tyres. KB

http://www.pirelli.com/tyre/gb/en/motorcycle/catalog For arguments sake, tyre types go: touring - sports/touring - sports - supersports - race, with progressively more grip but less longevity. Handling characteristics, warm-up, wear pattern, wet performance etc etc will also vary. Pirelli look to go from Angel (sports/touring) thru Diablo Rosso 11, Diablo Rosso Corsa to Diablo Supercorsa (road & track versions). Cos fronts wear slower than rears normally, & cos front grip is probably more critical for most people (usually losing front is worse than losing back), some use grippier (faster wearing) tyres on front than on rear - opposite to what you have. If you aren't pushing the tyres, & they feel OK, I guess it's not a big problem. Just be aware that tho rear's gripping, doesn't mean the front will & watch how they wear.Wear pattern can have big effect on handling. KB

Pilot Power 2CT's? Supersports tyres. IME they stick like glue, I've never overheated them or found the limit of their grip on the road. I like them. The Scura reaches it's limits before the tyres do. They do steer pretty quick & have a fairly sharp transition when leaning. I don't ride in the rain & can't comment on wet weather performance, but it maybe that sharp transition is what Luhbo doesn't like (& is common to other Mich?). I struggle to get 3k miles out of a set, so if you're pushing grip & still getting 5k miles with more to come, maybe we are talking different tyres. All other tyres mentioned above are sports/touring type & it's not comparing like with like - none of them will give you the dry grip of the 2CT, but will likely last longer. Maybe it's fanciful thinking or prejudice but my (probably meaningless)impressions over the years: Metzelers work well but poor feedback dilutes confidence (Metzeler noise is mentioned in other thread, years back I recall ME33 howling like that, when pushed & lent right over, don't remember getting that on any other tyre, but maybe I just didn't notice)... Pirellis - reliable, good grip, good handling & good feedback, progressive, even wear (...so I don't know what that means now they're same company as Metzeler!). Michelins - great grip, quick handling, good feedback but can sometimes wear to odd shape. Bridgestones I never really got on with - BT45's on Tonti & 020's on the Scura - unpredictable grip, poor feedback & they wear funny, but Guzzirider says above they're better now & anyhow they're good enough for MotoGP so... Conti - only used Sport Attacks - had beautiful, linear steering/handling when new - like someone said about Road Attacks I think - just so consistent & flowing, perfectly suited to a Guzzi, but handling went off a bit when worn. Good grip. Cheap. Haven't used Avon or Dunlop since old Roadrunners & TT100's which could give a whole other level of quirky...I always felt the Speedmaster was an unfairly maligned tyre. ....& then there were Pneumants , handcrafted in the Eastern Block using only the finest, matured Bakelite! Modern tyres? Like Guy says, you never had it so good! KB

Is oil leak gearbox or engine oil? Gearbox oil weep onto exhaust collector box was very common. Mine did it - I never figured where it was weeping from exactly. As i recall it stopped when I changed gbox oil to Redline Shockproof Heavy. Check all gbox cover screws are tight. Another possibility is the gearbox sideplate which doesn't have a gasket - I had mine on & off several times to fix pawl spring. Use a good quality sealant (I used Wurth Orange Flange Sealant which works v well). If it's engine oil could be loads of things. As Tom says, look round sump, feeds & breathers. They commonly weep from timing cover joint - check screws are tight, if so then it's a new gasket. Has it ever been dropped? Check around front engine mounts. Try cleaning it & dusting suspect areas with talc or similar then running it to try track source. Good luck. KB

Pete TW, did you ever ride a different Guzzi? If you're just going by looks, you might be surprised how some of the others ride. All big block Tontis share v similar basic architecture. I love LM's & dropped-bar bikes but found Calis also a real hoot to ride. A Centauro might look weird but isn't a million miles from a Daytona. However...I'm afraid I can't offer an excuse for the Nevada. MGCGB: I'm not a member but I visit the forum http://www.motoguzziclub.co.uk/forum/default.asp . KB