Baldini

Jim, Perhaps you should edit Docc's phone no from your post #7 ? Wouldn't want my # on the site less I put it there myself. Or is TX just having some fun ...? KB

Thanks for letting us know TX KB

Yeehah! Went last year. It was a good day. see ya there. KB

Only time I took tank off it took me ages & involved flooding the garage with petrol twice before I discovered the manual petcock wasn't screwing right shut. Even when I'd WD40'd it & got it seemingly shut it still dripped petrol. As I recall there was fuel in the lines that poured out n'all. Is there fuel in the line still under pressure when you detach line from petcock? Can you run bike with petcock turned off to drain lines before removing tank or does FI not allow this & would you have to prime the system when you put it together. I had a nightmare with it & I dread doing the job again..... KB

Martin, Sorry to hear you got another problem but glad it wasn't worse. When I got my Scura, shock mounts were assembled dry. Another thing to check is roller bearing in outside of rear drive box. I've not looked at steering head bearings or s/a pivots - maybe I should...yes... Oh well... Best wishes, KB

Money? KB

For me BT020's let go too easy. esp cold. Glad you're OK. KB

BOLLOCKS! KB

Hey don't blame me! I'd like to get to the V11/Buell meet & indeed may, but it's a bit of a trek for a family man...I'd be too knackered to enjoy meself before it was time to go home again. I've been thinking of sorting a Welsh camping w/e next summer but I'm too idle to have done anything about it yet.... KB

I thought they were cast iron. KB

Heard originally 500 Scuras then they made 400 more or something like that. Dunno about Tennis but I'm guessing less. With 600 RM, that's something between 1,600 & 2,000 single plates? John T - how many miles on yours? KB PS Al, I deleted my post #5 - lack of attention again ...KB

Heh! On the 5.5" rim, turn in is improved. Back turns into a corner same time as front rather than half an hour later. Affected also by tyre profile. 170 may go off tread at less lean than 180 (5.5" rim). Try a search for 170, 5.5" rim etc - there's been much lively discussion about this... KB

...as is the ability to permit cantankerous old men the privelege of going about their business in the ways they have always known, even as they pour scorn on your wonderful discoveries... but ...again - those who see no benefit in John's method - have you ever tried it? One benefit (1) - Clutchless upshift is slicker & quicker.... ever tried to hang with a CBR long enough down the straight to have some chance on the brakes & in the bends? You know you need help... Thank you gentlemen, & goodnight. KB

John - 90% of the time???

So you did. If I paid attention more maybe life would be less of a puzzle. KB

I don't know much about the mechanics of it, I just figure the less graunching & snatch going on the better the change. Like John, I find the quickest upshifts are without the clutch. The bike feels like it just wants to do it that way. The change, for someone coming off a 5 speed is unbelievably slick, done as John describes. I did one trackday with the Scura so far, didn't use the clutch on the upshifts sometimes (trying to keep w faster accelerating bikes) & generally used box much more aggresively - didn't miss one gear the whole day. Usually crunch at least once everytime I go out more relaxed on the road. The box felt better & worked faultlessly used hard. No question - I was very surprised how good it was. But most times on the road I ride in the higher gears below 6K & use the clutch nearly all the time & always on downshifts. Only time I don't use the clutch is when I'm using the revs & trying to go quick. Cos that's the way I always did it, & fear was always that clutchless = damage. To those who predict destruction - have you upshifted the 6 speed without the clutch, quickly & firmly as John describes? How can anything that feels so good be so bad ??? The single plate models may be more suited to clutchless changes cos the lighter flywheel drops/picks up revs quicker like Pete says. I did used to do same on the 5 speed but clutchless usually meant a big lurch & it was shortly after one trackday that the box gave up the ghost...Are the 5 speeds not constant mesh ( I probably know the answer to that but it's easier to ask than to think).... KB

Sorry but I don't know. I had the shop do it on 6K service, not sure how they put it in there. KB.

Mines full of silicone - still works ok.

I thought they all did that.... I suspect it's back cover on mine. There's no gaskets in there so it'd be easy to assemble it leaky at factory & considering some of the things that have been seen, not unlikely. KB

Maybe 15 years ago I needed a new helmet, looking to spend up to £100 max. Tried loads on, then an Arai - F*ck me what a difference, - just felt great fit, real high quality & comfortable. Nothing to do with fashion cos it was an old model on sale price with an awful colourscheme. Cost me £200. I'm on my second Arai (Quantum e) - still love it. Til I had Arai, a helmet was unpleasant necessity, Arai feels good every time I put it on. It costs what it costs. Dunno about US but in UK there's always old style/old paintjob models on sale, if your not that fussed about latest replica/model then you'll save 25 - 35% on price. Check manufacture date (stamped on chinstrap cover) - my understanding is that if it's been in a box then a few years doesn't matter but I wouldn't go for something off display. Haven't tried Shoei etc. other than in shop, can't compare. Never regretted spending that sort of money on an Arai. Only wish it had a washable lining. Like everyone else says - get something that fits you. KB

Pete, Reckon anyone with a single plate V11 will welcome any light you can shed on this, thanks. Someone said here latest RAM V11 kit is modified: thicker centre & recessed (flywheel to crank) bolt heads. Are you looking at early or latest (if it exists) aftermarket RAM? KB

Failures on Scuras reported here: cracks around the flywheel centre radiating outwards & flywheel disintegrates. This may be due to bad material, manufacture or assembly & may/may not be generic. If it is a generic fault then failures may be down to type of use. Someone said the latest RAM kit flywheel has a thicker centre than previous. If true then it seems they have recognised a problem. However, For years I have heard of RAM clutches in race bikes making much more power than ours, apparently without problems. I like the single plate, for sports use it works very well. The other side of the coin is that the bike obviously drops revs quicker too, so feels a little less relaxed, less of the locomotive effect. Take up is very direct, a bit of an on/off feel. When I put one on my Tonti I had to put on new timing marks. I'd be very interested to know if flywheel has been modified to a thicker material in latest RAM kit. If so I'll probably get one myself & replace Scura original to be on safe side. How much you paying? It may be worth speaking with RAM direct if anyone knows how? KB

Pete, I can't post pictures to site, wish I could - I email em to Jaap. But I didn't save pix you sent, computer's not big enough! Can you email it to Jaap? Best, KB

Pete, True... but it's not a Guzzi! If it's trackdays - majority of trackday riders I've seen dunno where they're going anyhow, last thing they need is more power, it doesn't matter what they're on. Guzzis work great on track & if you look slow you always got an excuse with a Guzzi! Like you say more handling is better than more power most times. Racing's a different thing.... Good to see you getting involved with the V11's, sure we'll all benefit. KB

Guzzi did exact same thing in UK, same results. KB