Baldini

!!! MickM, Welcome & thanks for your post. Re g/box spring - The washers seem like a good idea to restrict spring sliding across arm. I didn't feel this movement in itself would be enough to cause spring to break as it's hardened and arm isn't, so it just wears a groove...maybe over v.high miles? we talked about bending tab of spring right around arm to retain. Anyhow I agree it would be good to stop sliding movement & may copy you w/washers when I look in there. Thanks. Check all nuts & bolts for tightness. Guzzi can be v mean w grease gun. Esp check needle roller bearing in outside of rear drive hub. Mine had rear wheel bearing spacer too short, knocked out bearings when axle was tightened. Make sure there's plenty freeplay in rear brake actuating mech. Some have had binding r brakes. Some wear bushes of r brake torque arm. Check tappet clearances not too tight. Dunno where you are but I believe some US bikes ran bad cos of this. Also in US people have had problems with vacuum developing in tank. G/box commonly weeps. Various possibilities. I suspect seal of rear cover, tho pos lower part of sidecover also. Usually only tiny amount, collects on collector box (of course ) Some have had badly ass'd timing chest gasket blow. Check for weeping around seal, usually by engine mount bolts. Mine was solved just by tightening but if you see a bit of gasket sticking out... These are occasional problems on some bikes, most are easily fixed. A search will turn up stuff on all these things. Bike takes a while to run in, about 10K miles motor's really smoothing out. It's a good bike. KB

I'll do that... (if I can get out between the rain cleaning the salt off the roads & the next lot of both ... & before I pull the suspension off to get it revalved ...so maybe next May ) Thanks BFG KB I like this new fella too - + = ?

Noticed in pic of Ti kitted bike posted on "V11 Sport" (Fox) thread - ECU has sticker on it saying MG (?) RACING. Mine has MG CALIFORNIA S sticker. I figured it was just Guzzi bodge & didn't pay it much attention. Bike runs OK. But now wondering if I've got correct ECU? What's yours labelled? Thanks, KB Oops - guess this should be in technical - sorry Jaap

It was good wasn't it

Could you post a link to Racetech? Thanks, KB

JohnT, what's "knife edged" mean? Is there a full spec of your bike somewhere online? Thanks, KB

"Bumpy"...I don't use it on tracks/trails but some of the smaller roads round here can be pretty uneven...

Stanchion surfaces are good. I used Ohlins grease to lube them when I fitted them...& keep stanchions lubed with same. Both seals went at same time. I don't wheelie it, do keep it clean & change fork oil (Ohlins)....It's ridden fairly hard on bumpy roads... KB

11K miles & forkseals have gone again. Replaced first seals at 7K miles these have lasted 4K miles. No wheelies, no crap. They ought to last longer than this. Anyone else? KB

You sure it's not gearbox oil. Gearbox commonly weeps onto crossover, then onto floor.

I put a RAM in the Tonti. It appeared to have been balanced already, & I gathered as much from the supplier. KB

Chris, Now I'm confused...Is this instead of the 1/2/3 July V11 meet? I too could only really do one cos of family. If I can make the time to get up there, I'd be happy to join up with Buell owners & in fact I've got a mate who's got one might be interested. So would you go on your Guzzi or your Buell - or trailer them both ? Is there camping? Thanks, KB

Don't you lose a bit of straight line stability using lighter wheels - Less weight spinning in the direction you're travelling? KB

To muddy the waters a little more.... I came across these in an old club mag: V11UK (who visits this forum) fitted Pyramid Plastics Honda NTV600/650 (part no MPYR3002) said it just needed a little trimming & works well. Another fellow used one that was made for an FJ1200 & said it "lined up with the mudguard's curved profile perfectly" . KB

I put Ferodo Platinum pads in Scura. More braking, better feel, needing less lever pressure than originals. Haven't tried EBC tho I'm told their sintered pads are very effective. Never really noticed squeal from front pads. KB

John, That's interesting. Is newer RAM flywheel thicker compared with std Scura item or with earlier RAM aftermarket parts, or both? Thanks, KB

???I'm sure Juha knows what he's talking about. Just wish I did. Can anyone point me to an idiots guide to FI/tuning/PC111's/PC's/Lambda sensors & My15M's, it's about time I tackled my ignorance... Thanks, KB

Pete, I like the heavy flywheel - esp for distances, nowadays my riding is mostly short blasts with the odd trackday so the lighter wheels suit. But I do miss that sitting on a locomotive feel - one day will make another heavy flywheel bike . Roberto - Was the aftermarket RAM same thickness flywheel as came out. Anyone else able to compare thickness of original Scura unit w/ RAM unit available for V11's? KB

Do you mean by "clutch in" - clutch disengaged? ie in gear with clutch lever pulled in? KB

Chris, Would that be in place of, or in addition to a V11 rally? Thanks, KB

Goran, Not done it myself, but I don't see why you can't change cam with engine in frame. You'd have to support motor while removing front mount bolts. You'd need cam followers out too. If you do remove motor - like Carl says frame lifts away. My experience is on Tontis but essentially there's not a lot of difference - I always put motor on wooden blocks. It's quite manageable. I've lifted it alone but don't think I'd do it now - two man job or another trip to the osteopath. But depends what you leave on it - heads? clutch/flywheel? KB

Guzzi Ti cans/ECU kit works great for me.

Dan, Don't forget spacer inside hub centre when putting rear wheel back in. KB

If you remove the axle, the bevel box drops lower & further back relative to the s/a (bevel box is supported by UJ & brake torque arm, s/a is supported by suspension). You can put a strap around brake torque arm to pull bevel box into place (bevel box/shaft should be supported while axle is out cos otherwise it weights UJ), or lift bevel box into alignment by hand. . When replacing the wheel, get the (greased) axle in thru the s/a & bevel box, & protruding just enough inside the drive hub to mount the spacer which goes there (I grease spacer to hold it in place). Then you can pull the wheel onto the drive splines. I do it from the right holding wheel by two spokes. You have to jiggle it a little to align splines. I use MG stand on Scura & have to put front wheel in first otherwise I have to compress suspension to allow front axle alignment, as rear sits on ground. Rear suspension is, I think, longer than on LeMans. KB

Err...You've found the short hex adaptor in the bike's toolkit fits in the axle on the right (drive) side (remove rubber gromet)? A socket & wrench/bar fits on this to hold or turn the axle. Support the drivebox/shaft with a strap when you take off the wheel. Removing the caliper from it's bracket makes job easier (don't forget to clip brake line back into bracket behind s/a). Careful when removing calipers - it's very easy to scrape paint off wheel, there's not much clearance. While you've got rear wheel out it's worth checking the roller bearing in outside of drivebox is greased, and that wheelbearings are good. KB