Baldini

Sweep, Can you confirm wether your bike had the correct pawl arm - or one with the oversize spring boss? Thanks, KB

John, So... an ECU mapped for a specific model /accessories can not give perfect fueling on an individual bike cos even tho specs are same each bike is slightly different - a PC is necessary in all vehicles without an adjustable ECU to achieve optimum fueling? The ECU with a fixed map gets you in the ballpark but the PC adds adjustability & dyno fine tunes fueling via PC for an individual bike? I'm not being funny here - just trying to understand something I know nothing about.... Thanks, KB

jrt, I have a RAM clutch in my Tonti, very few miles on it yet, seems to work - lever action is very light. One question - did you notice the pushrod locating hole on the actuating piece was bigger than on the original Guzzi piece - so that the pushrod (clutch end) was a loose fit? Thanks, KB

Dave, Prior to fitting the PC & dyno run - had you had the std FI set up by an expert? KB

Todd, Were all the bikes dynoed with std FI system expertly set up for optimal running - before PC was fitted? KB

Todd - you are sure that the V11 with Guzzi ECU/Ti cans kit cannot be made to run right simply by correctly adjusting std FI components? You are saying a PC is a necessity for optimum performance? KB

Nori san, ... haven't got a digital camera, don't know how to post pix - cept to email it to jaap...I'll take a pic & do that - but may be a while.... there's a pic of a lemans w/kit here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/uploads/po...-1092883108.jpg KB

I figure Guzzi kit doesn't need PC, it goes well, no real stutters or bad flat spots, pulls real hard to redline. It has new ECU, I'll get fueling side set up by someone who knows what they're doing. From what I've seen & heard, I think a lot of bikes come new badly set up & people go straight for a PC instead of getting std system well sorted. I had FI sorted before on std cans/ECU - made big difference. Can't believe it could have been made much better by PC. It pulled clean thru revs, just slightly flat around 4.5K - this seems normal to me. Sometime I may change intake side, maybe then I'll need a PC, dunno. I don't want a PC if I can avoid it, or unti I have to have one -apart from the extra cost, I know FA about electronics so I won't be able to do nothing with - it's an added complication, I have to find a Dyno & pay to get it set up, & it's something else to go wrong... KB

Well I fitted it, & finally got out today on dry roads. Heh, heh The cans are really light, I don't have a decent set of scales but they're way less than half the weight of the originals. They look well made, straight thru absorbtion type. Brackets are a bit scrappy - but do the job. Bike goes great, not huge difference (it was already running pretty good after Baldrick Corsa sorted the fueling)...I'm not much good at analysing how bikes go ..but...maybe a little lumpier below 3k, noticably more grunt from 3-4K & flies from 6K to redline, feels more eager to rev throughout range. Not as noisy as I'd worried it might be - louder but deep tone. And no more ground clearance worries - wahhaaaayyy! KB

I'd be interested to know the history of the 4 Scuras (that we know here) who've had clutches/flywheels blow. 1. We know Roberto's bike had had clutch replaced already. 2. Paul's bike had had rear gearbox cover leak fixed - had clutch been apart also? 3. French one/Recent German one - anyone know if clutch had been apart at all? Had these bikes been regularly run at high revs for long periods? Any info gratefully received... KB

John, You probably already did this but...Have you had a look thru the timing inspection hole on the r/side bellhousing? Remove rubber bung & you can see into clutch/flywheel ass'y. You can spin motor using rear wheel in high gear or alternator bolt (remove plugs to lose compression). Use a torch - will show you if anything's rubbing on the outside edges at least... Hope everything turns out OK ... Best wishes, KB

Bilko, Welcome. Where in Wales are you? We're Mid Wales - North Powys. KB

Jonathan, Thanks for coming in on this... I don't speak German & I'd love to know what goes on on the German V11 forum - the only Germans I've met have been on IOM at Manx, they seemed to have a real individual & honest approach to modifications... ... KB

The two German ones were apparently high speed. Maybe the blueing on the x-over section indicates how fast? Dunno about Roberto's (who caught it before it exploded). The one Zebulon mentions occurred at low speed - but maybe he was just slowing down from ...? Roberto, Zebulon any more information about how those bikes were ridden? I'm not suggesting clutch shouldn't hold up to high speed running but it'd be good to know what brings about failure. In the photos of Paul's bike it seems clear the flywheel disintegrated, as Roberto's had started to also. In this new one the flywheel appears intact whilst damage is obvious on clutch/ring gear side (of course there may be a big chunk of flywheel missing on the other side...& there is a big whole in the crankcase...) - if flywheel is ok it may be different problem? KB Just read emry's post: Yes...but...sustained high speed (derestricted autobahn?) = sustained high revs. Riding agressively using the gears varies revs. This may or may not be relevant of course.

Previous single plate problems: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1465&hl= http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...hl=clutch+scura How's it going Roberto? KB

Paul, Thanks for reply. You say you know of 4 failures...1- Roberto's in Scotland on this site, 2 - yours & 3 - this new one in Germany. What was the other? Does anyone know of anymore? I know Roberto's clutch had been replaced, do you know if the others had been apart prior to failure, or were they as they came from the factory. Are they made by RAM? ( I have a RAM clutch in my Tonti... ). Is there any theories/info on all this on the German V11 site...I don't speak German. Thanks again, KB

Paul, Do you have any knowledge of why these clutches/flywheels have broken? Is it a design/materials fault that will occur on all single plates under certain running conditions? (eg.extended high speed running...) Is it a fault on a few bikes, but not common to all? Is a failure like this preceded by any warning symptoms? What, if anything, did Guzzi tell you about your broken Scura? Is there anything common to all the breakages in terms of type of use, mileage, engine no. etc? If Guzzi are aware of these breakages, & if there is a generic fault, then surely a recall is in order. 4 failures out of total production may be low no., but failure is so catastrophic that it makes me wonder about putting in a twin plate clutch, even if I have to buy it myself - better that than wrecked eng/trans out of warranty or pos consequences of failure at speed... Thanks. KB

I had them on back order from Motomecca. I think they only got one set - don't know where or how... KB

Thanks Al KB

I've got hold of the Guzzi Ti cans/ECU kit. I want to fit it to my 02 Scura. I read the instructions... Connect PC with MDST & vacumeter ...potentiometer ... til 2.9 +/- 0.1 deg (465mv...)... ...trim value... ... ...CO @ 4% value... I've only ever had carbs before. Anyone fitted these things can explain what I need to do the job? Vacuum gauge? Gas analyser? PC connection? & what's a potentiometer? I've got a multimeter... Am I unqualified for this kind of work? Thanks, KB

SteveG, What size front? I can't figure what you're saying...I've always found rears to get to edge before fronts & seems safer that way.... the 160 should get to the edge easier than the 170 cos profile is flattened out? I've been thru this on my 5.5" rim going to a 170/60 instead of the 180/55. 170 steers better. Both go to the edge pretty quick, I would like a bit more tread, but not more than the front.... I was thinking of going to the 4.5" rim & a 170/60 on my 02, but if it's grounding out with still so much tread left on a 160, the 170 must be worse? For a given corner speed lean has to be greater on a fatter tyre cos COG is further inboard. But a narrower tyre must give less clearance at a given angle... How stiff do you run suspension? Is it grounding in flat bends or only on bumps? I believe the Ohlins shock on the Scura is slightly longer than the std V11, which helps ground clearance. You can re-position std cans up & in quite a bit. Sidestand's a pain - once you've ground away the foot watch it doesn't catch the cut out switch... KB PS ...Al, think you got it the wrong way round...? 170 should be more rounded profile...

This is experience off Tontis, but it probably applies to V11's also .... I've found exhaust clearance does tend to close up (valve/seat wear?). I prefer to set the larger clearances. I've always found TDC by rotating crank on alternator bolt to find comp stroke, (both rockers loose off valves) then using large flat blade screwdriver thru timing inspection window to gently lever flywheel round to alignment marks. A marker thru sparkplug hole will tell if flywheel marks are accurate (as twhitaker outlines). If they're out it's worth redoing them. KB

Like people above have said it's easy enough to adjust with a long, wide blade flat screwdriver tapped w/ a rubber hammer accessed thru small space between s/panels & tank w/airbox in place. Be careful not to clout the tank paint. You don't need to loosen the tank, tho taking the seat off means you can see what you're doing. I also use a blob of paint so's to see where I started from. KB

why does it only happen when the bikes out running - in the shed it doesn't mist...

Dan, . Good to hear you're pleased with the set up. There's a couple things would be helpful to know.... 1. What do you weigh kitted up to ride? 2. Are front springs left stock? 3. What rate rear spring did he fit? (It is marked clearly in black on outside of spring, eg. stock is 1091-26/85 L511 = 85 N/mm) 4. Were you asked what sort of riding you do? eg sport, cruising etc....? Thanks, KB