Baldini

Sure wish Scura shock had a high-speed compresssion adjustment. OK on track but too harsh for road. KB

Thanks RayS. Can you use it over (keyed/cleaned) original paint or do you have to strip back to metal?

Looking for satin black paint for swingarm. Prefer brush paint, but aerosol's OK. Tough, reliable finish a priority over exact match to original. Thanks for any recommendations. KB

Bah! Dented the cans parked up & pushing it about in the shed at home!

It's nice getting out in the country - kept on until I lodged the sump on a berm... the weight hadn't really been a problem til then... too old, too stupid...

Michael, I think single plate/twin plate use different hubs. I haven't seen a V11 twin plate hub, but parts book lists: Clutch gear: 04 21 16 00 Clutch Gear (RM): 01 21 16 40 first # I assume is twin plate V11s, second # (RM) I assume to be Rosso Mandello, which uses single plate clutch. KB

More like the 5Speed deep spline ?

Could be you just got the wrong hub? Any chance of confusion w Pete over which V11 you have - cos the California is referred to as a "V11" in the States I think? Cali uses 5 speed box. Whatever, I think Roper's right - don't prat around with worn parts, put in a new hub to match new plates. KB

Pete, From memory, top assy in Michael's photo looks exactly like the original from my Scura, & bottom assy is same as RAM aftermarket I replaced it with. No Transkontinental. Michael, The shiny hub in your photos looks very much like a 5speed one. Splined end of 5 speed input shaft is smaller diameter than V11 6speed. Are you sure you have a clutch & hub out of a Griso? I've never seen a Griso hub & don't know any dimensions, but I'd be surprised if it had similar hub to 5speed. I use copper grease on bolt/screw threads that get very hot & I may want to dismantle at some time, also on exhaust parts etc. I use regular LM high melting point grease on stuff that doesn't get v hot. I use blue loctite on stuff I'm worried might loosen off. As I said, dunno if that's right, but it's worked OK for me. KB

I never used red loctite or exhaust assembly paste on a rebuild but I use copper grease pretty liberally on most (external) fasteners & on the exhaust joints. Not saying that's right, but that's what I do & it's never given me a problem. KB

http://www.motoguzzi.it/#/motoguzzi/IT/it/news-promo/news39 Think this is the bike, but probably a different race - I dunno - no speak Italiano. Helicopter Jim he speaks lot of sense. Hope you're good, Orson. Always said, it was a lovely little bike... KB

Is clutch fluid clean & with no air in it? Any sign of oil around bottom of bellhousing? By fluid Michael means oil I think rather than hydraulic fluid; engine oil getting past crankshaft seal, or gearbox oil getting past gearbox input shaft seal. Clutch activating mechanism? Check clutch slave cylinder (on back of gearbox)is tight up to the case - mine came loose. There's a thrust bearing between slave cylinder & pushrod - check that's OK, & the washers & plate that act on pushrod. Wear or failure on any part here could cause these symptoms I think. Wear on splines on various parts of clutch assembly can cause clutch to snag up. Is action still progressive or is it snatchy? KB

Me too. Tontis used taper roller bearings here. KB

Sounds about right! Drain plug is under trans, above exhaust x-over. I use tin foil to funnel oil past exhaust into container. KB

I've had "right-way-up" stanchions re-chromed by HCP&G in the past. http://www.hardchromeplating.co.uk/location.cfm Did a real good job. Not cheap. Don't see why they wouldn't do USD. KB

Pete is pretty busy I think at the moment with work & http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=54053.0 . PM him, he pops in here occasionally. I made a rear guard out of an old racing number plate I had - it's some kind of plastic, strong but very light, easy to work - try a raceshop, they come in black or colours. KB

Pete, Can't remember re hubs, but that friction plate looks exactly same as the one came out of mine & I had it from new so know clutch is original. Friction material on mine had less wear, changed at same 19k miles. Also Michael's friction material is worn much more on the one side than the other - mine is even wear to both sides. Splines in mine are not worn like Michael's. KB

To balance the above... I didn't like BT020, lack of feedback, grip & uneven wear. It's obselete now anyhow isn't it? 180 is MG recommended fitment for 2002 V11S rear, which has 5.5" rim not 5". Tyre manufacturer's recommend either 170 or 180. It's not all down to size. All else being equal 170 gives quicker steering & more linear turn in, but tyres have different profiles & construction, eg I use Mich 2CT's in 180 (170 not available)& they steer pretty quick & even, as good or better than some 170. KB

Hi Michael, These diagrams may be useful:

Check pedal & linkages, but sounds like pawl spring to me too: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872 Was it Guzzi shop did warranty work? The pawl arm/spring problem was subject of a MG service bulletin. KB

Who knows? Could be just fix the bits you see in the photos or could be bent forks, yokes, frame, cracked cases etc etc - can't know full damage til you inspect it. KB

...notice anything else about the outfit?

Jaap's listed these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-titanium-race-exhaust-/150790195294?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231bcbc85e

- also think I said this already - but take photos of cable & pipe runs etc with an eye to routing. Also lable electrical connectors as you disconnect them. Notepad is handy to jot down note on anything that looks like it isn't obvious how it goes back together, or the order of re-assemble etc etc etc... Like post above says - it's just nuts & bolts & a steady, methodical approach will see you fine. If anything becomes a problem & you get frustrated, walk away & come back to it fresh - as many times as it takes! Good luck! KB

Think Greg Field had some. He's not at Moto International anymore & don't see him on the board but it might be worth checking with MI? http://www.motointernational.com/main.htm.