Baldini

I am becoming increasingly concerned at the frequency with which I find myself in agreement with the Angry One... KB

Bruce, I'll send one. I'll pm you. KB

Only grip problem I've had with Diablos is right over on the tread in very long constant radius bends, they sometimes slip a little, back first. Most everything else is fine & they wear very evenly across the tread, I found 020's cupped front & I wasn't happy with grip. They don't last very long, but that seems to be the norm these days. I'd like to try the Corsas but mileage would be silly. Can't comment on the Avons, not used them. KB

Dunno...but maybe you will ! What tyre pressures do you run? Al, the ordinary Diablos are pretty good grip, much better than 020's (wear a bit quicker) - Corsas are more track focused. I don't know, but I thought Corsa profile's same as Diablo, just softer compound. Handles better on Diablos than 020's anyhow ...... and.......170/60 turns better again... KB

If it is simply bad metal, why do some bikes/riders break springs again & again, whilst some don't break them at all. It would mean that some original, and all replacement springs were bad but not those being fitted to most recent & current production, unless 03/04 bikes start breaking springs regularly....it just doesn't sound likely to me. The pattern to me suggests that some bikes have a fault that causes repeat failures. Has anyone had spring break, replaced it, & had no further problems? It seems that the bikes breaking springs tend to repeat breakage. Of course it could be down to how the rider uses the box... Has anyone had spring break on an 00/01 bike? The oversize boss causes the spring to bind & impairs function, but clearly if springs are still breaking with correct size boss, there must be some other factor. KB

Bill, Did your dealer check the action of the pawl arm/spring/shift plate assy before replacing on bike? Did he suggest a cause for failure? KB

In an earlier post Sweep says dealer found 15mm boss. I'd like to speak with his dealer about this, I pm'd Sweep but he did not reply. KB

Yes. Also wind catches more upright body & h/bars have mor leverage = input to steering feel.

Francesco, Have you checked that all the timing case screws are tight? If it's just weeping, could be loose fastenings. KB

02 Scura. First @ 2,800 miles Second @ 6,700 miles (had oversize spring boss on pawl arm)

Martin, Pretty sure my bike has UK pattern lens. Haven't been out in the dark for a while but I remember thinking the headlight was very good ( but then I came from a Lucas pattern lamp... ). KB

6 speed is mostly much slicker than the old 5 speed, but retains a long throw shift. I think this is cos of the design of the pawl arm/selector gears, there is plenty of space there to get a false neutral as you change. Think of the gearchange as disengaging a gear, then engaging the next, a 2 stage process, & guide the shift lever firmly thro it, feeling for the engagement - rather than simply crashing the box. If you're into a bend too hot I think the brakes would be a much better bet than the gearbox! KB Great post belfasst guzzi. Those lower bolts are a pain, in line with frame tubes - cut down keys the answer. Ball end keys are great but can't get torque on them for shocking tight bolts, & as I recall can't get one on one of those bolts anyhow. KB

If you got oil in bellhousing it would show at small rectangular hole underneath housing & weeping around timing inspection hole, or check thru that hole for oil mist on inside of housing. Can't see that it would migrate into housing from external lines. You sure it's the line that's leaking, not oil seeping from bellhousing ? Good luck. KB.

Belfastguzzi, How' bike running? Is FI set up? I don't know nuthin bout FI but took it to a man as did & he made a big improvement. May be worth checkin in somewhere when you're over? Done tappets? Used to get so fed up w/speedo cable breaking on Tontis, eventually just let it go & checked speed by tacho/ mileage in me head...never believe mileage on a used 850 ! "...It's good to know that in this world of... progress & corruption, that somethings do not change... like the beaks of eagles..." =- or something like that. KB

Al, I don't remember length of spacer I made up but this warranty one Guzzi sent me is 113.2 mm in length. Seems about right, as I recall the original was a little over 1mm shorter than the distance between bearings & that one measured 112.2mm. Not much difference...but enough to knock out bearing when side loaded by torquing axle nut. Seems to take out the brake side bearing. If replacing bearings, it would be worth checking the distance between bearing faces on that particular wheel, & not assume that the bearing housings in all hubs are machined to the same depth... KB

where exactly? KB

I had 2 brake side r wheel bearings go in quick succession early on. I discovered bearing spacer to be about 1mm too short causing inner race to be forced inboard when axle nut was torqued up, setting it off re the outer & wiping out the balls/cage. There's a thread on this. I made up a spacer, but in time I did receive a warranty part from Guzzi - sure enough it was 1 mm longer than original. Anyone who has brake side r wheel bearing fail prematurely should check spacer length. Al, could you do a FAQ on this? KB (I also noticed at the time the brake noise went...it's there again on & off now tho I'll try the EBC's...)

Marcel, Rosso Mandello is 2001 model? It's the 02 (& later) models that have been breaking springs, Scuras esp. The boss we refer to is a drum that the spring coil wraps around. Some are oversize causing the spring to become coilbound. I have seen a number of these springs, some, supposedly modified later parts. They have all been the same size as far as I could see. But as far as I know with a 2001 bike you shouldn't worry... KB

How would that explain multiple breakages on one bike? It's a pretty simple installation. I believe that the oversize boss causing spring to become coilbound in use would cause the spring to break. I'm not saying there may not be other causes/factors also yet to be discovered!

That's what they all say... My second spring was a "modified" part - it broke. I should get him to check the size of the boss & the action of the spring on it when assembled with the shift plate. Do you use Colwyn Bay? Which side of Anglesey are you? KB

Viewed from above the face of the adjuster, all adjustments are clockwise to increase, except shock rebound which is clockwise to increase viewed from bottom of shock. Sag should be about 30% of total travel. There should be about 70% of total travel still available with you sat on bike, which on the Ohlins on my bike was roughly 90mm. It would be much better for you to set sag properly for your weight rather than go of other peoples measurements. I am sure you would find you needed stronger springs. All this information & more is on the Ohlins site: www.ohlins.com Or for Scura Ohlins Guzzi manual: http://ryuv11.free.fr/v11/scuraohlins/v11scuramanual KB

This is Ohlins? Search old threads on setting up Ohlins - there's loads of stuff on settings. But if std springs are 8.5 f & 85 r, if you can't set sag w/o max preload - best place to START is stiffer springs - makes big difference. Fairly cheap & easy to do - Brings other adjustments into a range where they are effective rather than just setting everything on max so's not to be chucked off! KB

Aye...That's how it starts...pretty soon you'll not be able to sleep, then you'll take to checking the gearchange at odd hours in the nightime to see the spring is still in one piece...I think of little else for most of my waking hours now....

No. I was thinking a stop could be put on the plate & the 90degree bend cut off the spring. The short straight part of the spring would be held against this stop, which could be perhaps a pin or plate (w/ raised end/edge to stop spring sliding off side) welded to the shift plate ( machined location in plate & piece brazed?). The spring would slide against it in use. Re the 15mm boss/still breaking springs: I've pm'd sweep re his 15mm boss/7th broken spring, see if I can speak with his mechanic. Cheers, KB

Belfastguzzi, Blimey! Can we fix it ??? ............. Great report, esp pictures. KB PS.I wondered about reprofiling the edge of the shift plate, but was worried it would cause spring to slip off edge, course now it doesn't bind, it wouldn't, so I wish I had . Presumably you cut the plate back cos you shortened spring? as well as to locate spring in a 'v'? I'm not sure about the wear on that edge contributing to spring failure, spring is harder than plate & moves across edge in use anyhow...once it's worn a groove...I dunno. I know nothing about metalurgy but will the new bend on the spring not weaken it...or work itself out in use? Are springs not heat treated after forming? What do you think about setting a pin or something into the shift plate to locate bottom of spring & doing away with the 90degree bend altogether?