Baldini

Al, Do a poll? The spring is coilbound at the further reaches of peddle movement. It seems to me the harder you are on the pedal, & the more you use the gearbox the more you'll fatigue the spring. Could be huge variation in milage. Welsh roads/Texas roads... But most breaks I've heard of have been quite early on...Sweeps' 6 springs in 12K is worst I've heard. Mine went 2,600 & 6,300, so I guess I was on track for similar. It's a warranty job, no question. Cheers, KB.

Anyone reccomend pads for front that give a bit more bite for less lever pressure than standard on an 02 Scura? Thanks, KB

I believe it has the same part no as original ( 04 23 51 01 ). Theory goes there was a batch supplied with incorrect diameter boss, but who knows - maybe Guzzi changed spec. But correct part to Guzzi spec is OK...You have to measure diam of the boss at the bottom of the ratchet (pawl) arm - 15mm is correct, otherwise parts appear identical. Thanks are due to Mark at Twiggers Motorcycles in Loughborough, UK who figured this. KB

Well I hope this is the answer, I don't wanna open gbox every 3k miles. I believe Guzzi knew there was a problem - long time back. I heard talk of a replacement plate a year back, but I thought it was plate on shift shaft. Yes Al, that is the boss, should measure 15mm diam. Yes Belfastguzzi, those are the parts, but no I am not this so called Baldini, R4 detective - the chap is clearly an imposter. KB

After sdkfz11's post I spoke with the mechanic who said it was oversized boss on some ratchet arms that was causing springs to break. He supplied a new ratchet arm from stock, same part no. The boss that the spring sits on measures 15mm diameter on this new part. My original part measured 16.3mm. I assembled the ratchet arm & spring on the shift shaft. Using the original ratchet arm the spring becomes coilbound after only a small amount of movement, stopping further movement of the arm & noticably pulling the short arm of the spring away from the shift plate. Using the new ratchet arm, the parts moved freely & the spring did not bind. I think that some bikes were fitted with this oversize boss & that this is the cause of the breaking springs. KB

Me neither...well I'm sure I won't be when I find out what they are

Belfastguzzi, It's fairly straightforward to get at pawl arm. You have to drain gbox & remove gbox side plate holding selector mech. There's a tread detailing job last year, try search. I've heard quite a few with more than 1 spring break. Worst I heard was Sweep who used to post had 5 go. The replacement spring from Guzzi supposedly has a better radius at the 90 bend. Ones I got didn't look much different...& one I fitted broke anyhow...waiting on new springs to see if they're any different. From what I've seen Scuras are very prone to this problem. Would suggest it's worth checking boss dimensions if it proves to be the culprit, as sdkfz11's dealer seems to have been doing ( ). My bike is no 484. KB

I hope it is the answer - we'll see. I don't see why it couldn't be ground down a little, I don't think it's hardened. Would have stuck it on the lathe but arm is too long for it. Anyhow it's a warranty job so new one is free. I'll be very happy budgie if it turns out this is what's been causing the breakages - draining the box & replacing the spring every 3000 miles - I got better things to do. YYIPPPEEEE! Hope that's not premature... KB

I spoke with the man. Goes like this: The boss holding the pawl arm spring should be 15mm. Some are 16mm. Some outside manuf supplied to wrong dimesions. Only in some bikes....the ones with the breaking springs. I measured mine at 16.3mm. What he says makes sense to me. The spring gets coilbound on the boss & can't move - stressing the 90 bend. I've ordered a pawl arm w correct size boss. I hope this is the answer. If it is - I'll buy the man a beer or several. But couldn't Guzzi have sorted it? Thanks to sdkfz11 for info, In hope, KB

oh no...not that again

My box is in bits at the moment for second broken spring. I'm trying to find out why they break. I don't think it was simply a bad batch of springs. There was some talk of a modified ratchet arm. Guzzi know there's a problem, they're just keeping their heads down. What I can't understand is how some bikes break, others don't - could be related to usage and/or parts. However if the spring is a better spring than Guzzi's, I'd have a couple. Thanks for your continuing efforts. Cheers, KB

Thanks sdkfz11,I'll phone Twiggers tomorrow. Try a search on this forum re your gbox oil leak - seems a bunch of places they leak from. Mine's always got a film of oil round lower left. Not really sure where it's weeping. Cheers, KB

Jaap, ...the King has left the building... Site wouldn't let me log on as Baldini so I re-registered - but now you sorted it ...so he's gone ( didn't much care for him anyhow, odd sort of fellow...) sorry & thanks. now back to the important matter of spring post dimensions...anyone? KB

Yep it's spring gone again . I need to know what diameter the boss should be. I can see how the spring would become coil bound & overstress the tang. But what's the solution? Turn boss down? More open coil on spring? I note that the spring Carl sent me from States has a slightly more open coil - is this why they seem not to break? Anyone got box apart at moment can measure boss for me? Thanks, KB

Enzo, I'm no braniac but as i understand it roadspeed is a product of engine speed x gearing. Whatever you hang off your headers has nothing to do with it. That rear tyre'll go to the edge of the tread pattern easy enough without you falling off if you just find some tightish, grippy, open bend to practice on - a long, slow, constant radius bend with no bumps to unsettleyou & plenty visibility. Here, we have roundabouts. Just make sure you can see what's around you, where the road's going & that it's a grippy surface. Work over gradually, smoothly - real gentle with the throttle. You'll be surprised how far it'll go over & still grip. Racetrack is ideal. KB .

Hey King Nit, That 3rd gear aint worth shit, had same thing go. But I found, once I'd raised the bars & fitted a fender extenda things weren't so bad. Best o luck mate. KB

Quoted about £770 inc vat as I recall. Spares GB in London. Sometimes get stuff from Motomecca too. Could also try TLM in Holland, very helpful. I went for MG kit cos I haven't a clue about fi maps & the like & don't want start fiddling with ecu/pc11's etc etc...Add up prices of other cans + pc11 - thought it was a good deal. Can't seem to get any idea if they'll ever turn up tho... Dunno how he sorted the FI, trade secret...think it involved a gas analyser & TPS... KB

A generous coating of vaseline under your leathers does the job nicely... or, as Channel swimmers used - Lard. KB

Belfastguzzi, Like you I have always had carbs. I think it's worth getting someone who knows what they're doin set up th FI. My Scura was pretty good but a bit flat at 4k & hesitant on a trailing throttle about 5K revs. Still I thought it was running pretty good & from what I've seen here was worried if a dealer messed with it it'd only worse. Baldrick at Corsa Italiana tweaked it & although it's still a little flat at 4 it pulls clean thru to red line & back now. I was impressed. Components are std. I've been waiting on Ti cans/ECU for weeks - no sign. If I ever get them I'll be back to London to have FI optimised again. Where will you order from? Cheers, KB

That's a very interesting theory. What's done if post does measure up to big?Who's the dealer? KB

As Brian says, tho I used an old axle bolt to drift em out. Make sure you keep bearings straight in the housings as you knock em out & in. Don't drive inner races, outer ring only. Another way to heat up hub is a towel or something soaked in v hot water wrapped round it for a bit. Do check width of spacer between inner races. Wrong length wrecks bearings. KB

Re rear bearing: Is the spacer in the hub between the 2 inner races a good fit? Mine wrecked L/s bearing twice cos spacer was too short. It's a straightforward job. Don't know front size off hand... KB

Cos of what Goran said about profiles & John T about running off tread seemed logical, I tried Diablo 180/55. For me it feels much better than 180 BT020, but still not as good as Diablo 170/60. Both Diablo 180 & 170 slide when pushed hard over. I can't tell which goes earlier. Feels like slide is just lack of grip rather than going over tread? Neither 180 or 170 have been marked up like they had gone over the tread. I've only ridden them on the road, racetrack use may be more instructive, I would dearly like someone who knows for sure to tell me. If it really hangs on for longer I'd stick with 180, otherwise I'd go back to 170. Thanks, KB PS...2000miles, Docc what you be doin?

Enzo/Speed Demon, Set static sag first, f & r. Then start on soft settings & adjust damping up to suit. If you search there was a load of stuff here on setting up suspension bout a year ago. No point in just fiddling with the knobs if you want it sorted. KB

I don't wear a watch. I find it makes life simpler. I'm nearly always late. But it gives me a reason to go faster.