Baldini

For Gods sake Al take it out & ride the f*ckin thing...

Front cupped very badly on my original 020's. F & b wore out at 3,400miles, never felt confident of grip. Swapped to Pirelli Diablos, lasted 2,800 miles wear was very even f & b, gripped better. Don't know how relevant as I was messing w/suspension throughout. It was better sorted for Pirellis. KB

belfastguzzi,I had another dealer register warranty. Did spring myself - went at less than 3k miles, dealer too far/long wait, he promised to send a spring but didn't. Good he went to trouble of replacing yours but it's a bit of a mystery why they break & whether later springs will be any better. I've been lucky w/cases paint so far (6k miles). If it goes i intend to clean it back to ally eventually. Good luck! John, how many miles you got on Scura now? KB

ho hum...i've heard there is one, but I've never seen it. same dealer as you i think- said he'd get one... however you can get suspension/st damper info off pages on net. ohlins site is very good. that only leaves clutch really rest is same as v11. handbook doesn't really tell you much anyhow. btw - did you get your warranty registered w/Guzzi? KB ps...anyone altered high speed da...nnguuurkkk guess not.

Belfastguzzi, See http://ryuv11.free.fr/v11/scuraohlins/v11scuramanual-02.jpg > http://ryuv11.free.frv11/scuraohlins/v11scuramanual-04.jpg and

ere, this is a thread on high speed compression damping - be off with you Anyone changed high speed damping on std Scura shock? Al, search for threads on Ohlins settings long time ago. Comes down to your weight & spring rate for starters. KB

I find high speed compression damping on std Ohlins shock too hard. Anyone had this changed? Thanks, KB

Std spring on Scura Ohlins was 85. I found it too soft, went to 100, better for me. I'm 210lbs w/gear. KB

What bike? I have 02 Scura w/Ohlins. Front maybe different - has no loose spacers. Rear has inner race for roller bearing in outside of drive box, & short spacer that fits between right side bearing in hub & inside of drive box. Sounds like you might've missed that. Push spindle thru drive box & locate spacer on it before sliding in wheel. KB,Cymru

Dunno, their ain't no-one here but us two & the lunatic with the hammer, we can talk about anything we want. Trouble is I don't know much about panniers either, I always use a big rucksack & a tankbag...try travelling with a BMW rider they always have loads of boxes and things... KB,Cymru

Belfastguzzi, Don't listen, the man's a fool! Don't know meself, & it's cold & dark out there, so I ain't going to the garage. Most all threads on Guzzi are metric coarse, with the odd fine. Won't be anything else. If it's 17mm a/f (spanner) then thats 10mm thread. Can't imagine that helps very much, but I just wanted to show I cared. KB,Cymru

ohh ...I wish I had one of them

No. It's my fault for not changing them. Everyone rides different & has different expectations of the bike. I accept Guzzis as big, heavy, not overpowerful bikes but I love them, & for what I do with the bike, it suits me to get handling as good as I can. Tyre mileage is not as important to me as grip/ handling. Seems to me Guzzis are unusual in that people use one basic model for everything from touring to scratching. What may be appropriate in one application may not be in another. Each of us will change bits until it fits what we want of it, for most of the time. I'd still like someone to be definative about 170/180 lean angles on 5.5" rim. Any Germans you can ask Jaap/Paul? From seemingly calm, but remarkably tense KB, Cymru ...hey man ... look at this flower...

...oh and Mr Angry in BC...as for original fitment/Guzzi knows best - if the bike had still been on std springs, it'd have had me in a ditch long time back. Why so uppity?

I have no idea what you're talking about... Give us a clue? KB,Cymru

Bike feels better balanced leaning into turns on 170 rear. I always felt the front would turn in but the rear was sluggish to follow on the 180. For me, it's not about a "quicker" turn in, it's just the bike leans in a more linear, smoother, more consistent way on the 170, feels more neutral, better balanced front to rear. As to why this is...well I dunno. Could be cos tyre sizes front to rear are closer. In my opinion 180 is for looks, these bikes don't make enough power to need that amount of rubber, it's fashion. Further I think that fat tyres are a liability on the road most times unless the bike is making power to need them & the rider is using it. One thing I wonder is that the bigger tyres need more heat in them to work? I also run a Tonti on 100 f/110 rear, with maybe 25hp less. I've ridden trackdays on that with no grip problems. On the road I've watched big tyres slithering around on road dust if they get slightly off line while the skinnies just find grip. I have more grip problems with the V11 on the road than with the skinny tyred Tonti. I don't believe that's just down to hp difference, I think it's tyres & the smaller diameter wheels. It's my understanding from manufacturer recomendations that a 170 is compatable with 5.5" rim, although a 5" may be optimum. There's been a recent thread on this - it was suggested 170 would run off edge of tread at less lean than 180 on this rim. I've run both to edge, but couldn't say. Anyone know? Anyone else on 170's on 5.5" rim ? I'm no technical expert, but I've ridden bikes for 30 years & I'm just saying how it feels. I don't understand why people get so twitchy about this. Each to his own, if you need big wide tyres - fine, but don't knock us little guys unless you know the difference.... KB,Cymru

Will do. But...I feel that you haven't fully answered my questions.... KB,Cymru

Sounds just what I want. Any idea how much is down to Stucchi x-over, how much to Ti cans/ECU? Anyone? Thanks, KB, Cymru

Does the Guzzi ECU/Ti pipe kit on it's own fill in the 4k rpm flat spot on an 02 bike? Will it pull cleaner thru the rev range? Does it gain torque/power? where? Is the effect of this kit more noticeable on the earlier bikes? Antonio are you saying that this ECU will cope better with further mods than the std ECU? with or without the addition of a PC111? Electricity - what is it? Where am I? Where do I come from? Where am I going? KB, Cymru

I agree with Paul. The factory stand as in pic is excellent. Should be able to get from Motomecca or Spares GB. There's a thread on this - try a search. Where in Wales are you? KB,Cymru

wasn't a trackday at Ty Croes...? KB,Cymru

I think this is what this is about. there's a lot of people driving who regard it pretty much as like watching the TV...mmm...what channel we on? KB,Cymru

It's like all this how you should ride stuff - racetrack & road have different requirements. Seems to me these California Superbike people are too dogmatic, confuse people with track technique that is often innapropriate on the road, knee dragging, leaning off inside, weighting pegs, countersteering - it's all only relevant at extremes...while you're trying to do all that suff watch out for that lorry heading your way just past that pile of cow shit there...Ride how you feel comfortable. I've never got me knee down but I've overtaken people who were dragging knees, only time I ever tried I was concentrating so hard I lost me way completely & ended up on the infield. I've always used engine braking on 4 strokes & I can't see how running into a corner clutch in can be safer - you've disconnected two of the main controls on the bike - engine & rear wheel.. Slipper clutches are surely only there to minimise effects of engine braking. In racing, brakes are much more accurate, precise, effective way of controlling bike which has all load on front wheel anyhow, & is slowing much harder than you'd usually be doing on the road except in an emergency. But perhaps that's the point...If you have to stop suddenly in an emergency brakes are the only way, rear wheel's likely gonna be up in the air anyhow (well maybe not the v11...) engine braking is pretty irrelevant - is that what they were getting at? - if you always rely on engine braking to slow you may never learn to use the brakes properly to stop quickly. What will happen in an emergency? It's worth practicing hard braking to stop motorcycle & learn to separate it from engine braking, find where front tyre can grip to. Try racing a two stroke for full effect... As to wear, I don't know much about the mechanics of it but it stands to reason if you're loading a part in motion there'll be some wear - lubrication isn't perfect. Price you pay. Now what exactly is piffle. KB, the ignorant one, Cymru

Docc, There's a saying brakes are cheaper than gearboxes - But they ain't so much fun unless your racing. Brakes are for overtaking. I use engine braking all the time always have done & I ain't gonna change now - so you maybe pay for it over a lot of miles - if you use it it's bound to wear out. Keith Code's book is good but don't take it too seriously - mostly he's talking about racing situations/laptimes & that's just different to the road. A lot of stuff he says is applicable but some of it not. Stick to the way you like to ride but let anything the book says maybe inform you. KB,Cymru

I am another on the roads of Powys. Been riding since I was a lad with a Tiger Cub I blew up twice. Me dad & me brother both had bikes. Run Guzzis since 1984. Love em. I'm a painter, with a wife & young family. 47 years old, & it feels it. Cymru am byth! An englishman living in Wales!