Baldini

I liked the white - reminded me of 60's hotrod V8 headers - everyone's got silver ones... KB, Cymru

what can this mean? KB, Cymru

...a Guzzi without a working speedo...it's good to know that, in this ever changing world, some things will always be around ... Stay safe docc, especially now you don't know how fast you're going! KB, Cymru (it's Welsh for "Wales")

belfastguzzi, mine's done it since new, now 6K miles, still same...I live with it...Jaap - do the holes actually stop it? KB,Cymru

Captain, How about .... Bin the tacho but keep the speedo on ally mount, bin the idiot light cluster & use a Lucas type chromed h/lamp w/integral idiot lights (oil/charge/main beam)...bung any left over loose wires in the voluminous h/lamp shell.... ...well it was just an idea.... KB, Cymru

Roberto, Did you get any sense out of Guzzi as to why the sleeve broke? Interesting what you say about parts use in assembly... I did see a low miles Scura about 4 months ago in London dealer w/disintegrated selector forks, pos same problem? Anyone here? Tell us about the Nurburgring... KB,Cymru

Roberto, What was mileage when it let go? Thanks, KB, Cymru

Your frame no comes into the batch Paul detailed in a previous thread as being subject to recall. It may be an 01 bike. I think that the ...01...in the frame number may refer to 2001. Mine is ...02... in the sequence, it's an02 bike I think as Scuras only made in 02? What...NO problems?!! Cheers, KB, Cymru

There's a bloke posted on Guzzi Club GB site saying he's had recall notice on 02 bike for conrod bolts/gbox stuff...It may be an 01 bike bought in 02 it wasn't clear. Not replied to my email. First I've heard of here - Anyone else UK had one? KB, Cymru

that suggests that it's design rather than manufacture or material...but why didn't the springs start breaking til 02 models? Is there anything different in the selector mech or box that could contribute to stressing the spring?

Wildbill, At which point on Hank's spring was the break? Thanks, KB, Cymru

Docc, Is the spring/selector design exactly the same on early V11's? If it's a bad batch of springs on 02's...what about Wildbill's Oklahoma spring snap? Coincidence (...or conspiracy ???) But if it's the design how come it didn't show up before 02's? KB, Cymru

Scura clutch is noisy as hell. John O'Sullivan has Scura - visited Agostinis, they approved of the noise...said that Scura clutch was improved over earlier single plate (Rosso Mandello) but also noisier. Did I get that right John? (& how are ya? - not seen you here for a while...). Re that "grenade" - on photos it's a piece of flywheel that flew out rather than clutch, not sure if flywheel is same on Scuras/LeMans? Anyone? Any word on why that flywheel failed? (Paul?). Cheers, KB, Cymru

I know nothing much about metalurgy. We need comments of someone who does on this. I think there was room to wrap the spring round, but we need to check with parts dismantled. I don't see why 180 should be weaker than 90 if radius is simply continued round? If we don't do 180, we should at least extend the short arm by 3mm or so if there's room in the mech. It's still not clear whether the radius on the original spring is too sharp or if it was just dodgy mat/manufacture. It does appear that a softer radius would cause less stress () ... Cheers, KB, Cymru

Thanks Jaap... ...if only I had a brain To explain above... 1. Standard spring in use twists & pulls down towards the edge of plate. 2. Spring would slide on larger radius further across plate, pos off edge. 3. 180 bend would retain spring. KB, Cymru

The bottom of the spring hooks over a plate. In use, as the plate moves, the end of the spring tends to slide sideways towards the edge of the plate. A larger radius will increase this tendency. I think spring needs to be hooked right over the plate, or at least the length of the short arm increased, to ensure retention if the radius is increased. Has anyone got one apart at the moment? KB, Cymru

I always change tubed tyres - I thought I have to have a tyre shop do tubeless ones on the Scura. How easy is it to get them off/on/sealed w/o beadbraker & stuff? Thanks KB, Cymru

What does your supplier think of this spring design in this application - if well made, is it up to the job or does it need redesigning? Unfortunately I know nothing about metallurgy - maybe someone else out there? The spring is within the gearbox so I wouldn't have thought corrosion would be an issue. Thanks for your efforts, KB, Cymru

Kiwi Dave, I'm sorry, the first part no I gave was wrong. It was in fact the no for a special tool "for removings of large object from tight spaces in painless manner" ...I hope it has not caused you too much embarrassment Sorry about that, KB, Cymru

Paul, Do you think it is the design, the material, or both that is at fault in the original spring? Was the spring known to fail on the Daytona? If the radius on your spring was continued thru 180 degrees & stopped it would provide a more secure location, the larger radius will encourage the spring towards the edge of the plate in use. What do you think? Is your spring heavier gauge? It appears to have an extra coil? Have you many miles on one? Are they available? Thanks, KB, Cymru

Thanks for the offer . Part no is: 04 23 83 00 Re modifications, I'd be happy w/ same design if it didn't break! Ir's not clear why the springs break. Material, manufacture or design? Maybe a thicker material is necessary. Can that be done w/ same design w/o making it stiffer?The spring material could not be thicker than the width of the pin it locates against on the ratchet arm. It may be that the spring would be less stressed if the radius of the 90 degree bend was larger.The spring tends to slide sideways in use, away from the plate it locates on at it's lower end. A larger radius on the 90degree bend at this point would make it slide further (there is nothing to retain the spring on the plate if it slides too far). However, a larger radius here, with the short arm continuing thru 180degrees, so that the spring wraps around the back of the plate would mean it couldn't slide right off. The plate edge could also then be radiused ? I'm no engineer, any other comments ? Anyone got one apart at the moment? Cheers, KB, Cymru .

The Guzzi part no for the problem (pawl) spring is: 04 23 83 00 It is dirt cheap to buy. If anyone is stuck with a broken spring & no dealer stock, I have a spare Guzzi spring (04 23 83 00, July 03) that I can send. Also, I think UK dealers have stock, Spares GB (UK + 0208 540 7155), Motomecca (UK + 01202 823 453) are both good, TLM in Holland also. I have a (Blackstock?) spring sent me by Carl which I did not use, as the short arm appeared to me to be too short for secure retention of the spring. I am happy to mail this to anyone who is stuck. There is no obvious, visible difference between these springs, or between them & the one that broke. Cheers, KB, Cymru .

Carl, I will happily send on the spring, refund your costs or return it to you as you wish. The Blackstock spring appears to have the same radius bend as the Guzzi item. As I mentioned it is shorter where it locates at the bottom, a location I feel is already inadequate, but for this I would have fitted it. Thanks for your help. Murray, Do I understand correctly - That Moto Guzzi in the States issued a recall on all 02 Scuras & some other 02 V11's to replace this spring? Can you tell me when? As far as I know UK has had no V11 recalls whatsoever... Thanks, KB, Cymru

David, Spring is a common & known problem, & in my view should have been a recall. It may (!) be worth pushing Guzzi on the warranty...? I found I could get neutral running it up the road - it wasn't easy & needed a bit of fiddling on the pedal. It is worth stopping & starting the bike between attempts. I think you should be able to remove selector plate whilst in gear. I didn't, so I'm not sure & I don't know any consequences.... It will be difficult to align selector forks if you try to replace plate with box in gear. Again, I don't know, but you should be able to get box to neutral by hand, unloaded, once cover is off. Carl Allison kindly sent me a spring that I believe (Carl?) came from Hank Blackstock in Oklahoma. There is a short section bent at 90 degrees (this is where it breaks) to the rest of the spring which retains it at the bottom end. The location is marginal - the spring tends to pull sideways in use & is not retained securely there. This short section, on the spring Carl sent me was even shorter than the Guzzi one. I was concerned that it could slide right off it's location, so I didn't use it. (sorry Carl, & thanks again ). Sweep recently said here that Guzzi have recognised the spring problem & issued a modified part, but I haven't been able to contact him. KB, Cymru

Box in NEUTRAL. Detach shock reservoir from bracket. Isolate battery. Remove starter motor. Detach neutral switch term. Detach shift link from shaft. Drain gbox oil. Remove 11 (5mm) socket cap bolts. Remove Selector cover plate (there's no gasket, goo holds pretty firm). Remove 2 selector gears (retained by circlips) & mechanism, to access spring. Ensure NEUTRAL in box (check spaces between sliding dogs & gears are equidistant) & in selector before replacing plate. It's a bit fiddly but fairly straight forward. KB, Cymru