gthyni

I will continue my experiments when spring is here again, the riding season is almost over here up-north. I have a extra 6-pack of disks and I will try to find an optimal compromise between flow and a resonable sound level. My first prototype broke when I was on a test ride so I know the sound of a V11 with straight pipes... it is not recommended. An easy reving twin like our V11s without some damping is like a straight pipe Harley, the sound is harder and much loader, so load that it is uncomfortable even riding the bike with fullface helmet on.

I got one homebuilt and I had planned a dyno run before the season ended but between buying a house and unstable weather I did get to it. It will be done first thing in the season of 2005. I really needs some tuning (more petrol) in the low and mid RPM ranges, in high RPMs in works OK with a open-filter/mistrals map I got on the net. I gutted a stock crossover removing some mesh, damping and a stabilizing bolt. Cut of the left hand outlet, banged it together and welded it shut. On the right side and put a 2" bend and a 4" Supertrapp megaphone with 6 diffusion plates. The sound is nice, classic looks and save a few kilos weight.

Nope, not mine.

Paul, do you know the story about that specific ZX10R-wheel? Broken during riding how? Causing crash? A ZX10R riding guy got a bit concerned since he is still waiting for a replacement wheel.

How about a collapsing front wheel on a supersport 1000cc bike from a big jap manufacturer: more on MCN The single plate clutch has it's advantages, but obviously a weakness too.

Al, saw you called you V11 Champagne Corsa. Those Buell footpegs - very "corsa"

Paul, you keep pushing the envelope.

.. or use a grinder

Brian, I think i've heard that the 2003 and on has a different Marz fork from our earlier bikes had.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=2598&hl=faster http://www.fastermovie.com/dvd.html http://trackerwww.prq.to/download.php/3226...%20vobs.torrent

Oh no, you got here too early, La Liga hasn't started yet!

Loosing body weight is the cheapest way if you carry som extra kilos, in fact it can even save you money to choose healthy food instead of crap. An extra bonus is the you get more agile not only on the bike but all all other situations too.

This is what you want: for just lifting the wheels the Guzzi shop stand is better than a small lift.

I'm not sure I would trust the wide alu pan to carry the whole weight of the bike.

f-n i helsike Marcus, det var det värsta jag hört. I haven't heard about an Guzzi engine break down like that usually they are bullet proof, but anything mechanical can break. Could be a weakness in the material or sloppy assemling.. has the bike been in for some serious engine work before this happened? Pictures would be welcome. A used engine should not be impossible to get from some crashed bike,probably not in Sweden, but somewhere outthere in the European Union I'm sure. http://se.mobile.de/ is one placeto start looking.

Depends on what you means by work well. Maximum peak power is not helped by backpressure. Of course you would need to adjust the FI map for a configuration like that or it will run very lean.

I tried that when my first attempt att a 2into1 system exploded and I had to get back home. If you think a Harley with straight pipes is load, think what twice the RPM will do. MotoGP bikes revs much higher still and the sound level of those beast make weak men

Maybe I can help out, attached a view from my livingroom window

Come on guys! TIG welding makes a very strong joint, probably stronger then the rest of the lever. My guy welded it in 5 minutes and wanted around $7 for the job. Buy a box of cookie and bribe a pro welder and you get a good nice joint.

The shift lever seems to only be sold as part of a kit which retails for 139 euro I dumped the bike (low speed) yesterday and broke the lever, luckily we have skilled craftsmen here in Luleå: TIG welding is fast and nice. Why is these thing not made of steel? Steel bends and you just bend it back (at least a few times) alu breaks right off.

Did the same when I switch to the Ghezzi&Brian clip-ons, no problems to get them to fit tight on a 22 mm bar. Have you got the bar yet, I would recommend Renthal otherwise, nice alu-bars which comes in many pretty colours.

Guess what, the Bulldog is designed and built by Yamaha Italia!

With the dry clutch and separate (oilwise) gear box it is really less critical what you use. A wet clutch make it all a bit of a compromise since to oil can't by too anti-friction or the clutch will slip, with the dry clutch that is not a problem. If you going to pay a premium for a really high class oil like Motul synthetic, be sure to get the right one: - 300V for dry clutch - 5100 for wet clutch I have been told. Edit: just read the Motul FAQ, it claims 300V could be used with wet clutch too, but I still thinks the above is about right anyway. If you are racing a R1 you probably has your clutches in good condition compared to an old street R1 with half-worn-out clutch.

Motul 300V expensive, but probably the ultimate oil for dry clutch motorcycle engines

with 4.5" rims (up to 2001) you should use 160 wide tyres on 5.5" rims (2002 and on) 180 would be optimal