GuzziMoto

I would try a different dealer. Or get the equipment to work on it yourself. Idle is affected by throttle body sync, as well as valve clearance and CO trim. How many miles on the bike? Why the new clutch?

Or swap the injectors from side to side to see if the miss moves with the injectors.

That would explain why one company might charge up to 33% more then another company to insure your Guzzi, but not 300% more. There is a lot ofvariability and profit in the insurance field. They take in more money the they pay out. It's how the business works. I can except that. But you gotta shop around 'cause some companies will charge you alot more then others for reasons only known to them.

Check for spark, then check for fuel, then check for compression.

My wife and I removed the damper on her V11 and she (and I) much prefer the lighter steering the bike has without it. If you have raised the rear end (or dropped the front) to speed up the steering you may want to put it back where it was, particularly if you hve a earlier red framed V11 (as my wife does). Part of it is what roads you ride on and how well do you have your suspension set up. Do it. You might like it.

No, there is a small dab of non hardening goo between the petcock and the tank, and between the regulator and the tank. Not sure exactly what it is but it does not harden like silicone does.

Not sure how much actual good that pan would do but it should satisfy the letter of the law, so to speak. The belly pan rul has nothing to do with which way your cases split. It is to catch any oil that might leak out of your motor, say from a lose oil line or from a hole in the block made by a broken rod, to keep it of the race track so that others are not in as much danger from your problem.

You may be able to adapt one from a Buell Lightning. I have also seen people make their own(or have made for them) out of sheet aluminum. Looks trick, especially anodized.

Look for something like that first. If the bike was running well then it wasn't, did you refuel the bike at that time. I have known of people accidently filling their bikes with diesel. Another thing to check is did anything get unplugged?, like the cylinder head temp sensor? Or did the bike get wet? Relays are also a common issue on these bikes, but normally they stop it from running altogether. Check the common obvious things that could go suddenly, first. TPS setting or TB sync usually go slowly over time, not "It ran great yesterday and now it runs badly".

These are sweet. http://trailtech.net/vapor.html

YES.

My wife has a MG tank bag for her V11 that uses a harness that straps over the tank, tying to the front motor mounts at the front and to the bolt that the tank is held on with at the back. The actual bag the attaches to that with a zipper and a clip.

There is a company that makes silicone valve cover gaskets. They do not crack and are reusable http://www.realgaskets.com/

The heat gun would likely be used to heat the outter tubes so the seals come out and go in easier. Putting the new seals in the freezer also helps.

Was the choke on when it happened? That's for Ratchet.

That is a sweet bike. I am not mature enough to ride a bike that fast and powerful on the street yet. Not sure when I'll grow up.

If you changed the fork oil and the forks worked "perfect" afterwards and then over time went down hill, I would venture a guess that it is/was not an oil level issue. It would sound to me like a mechanical issue. The forks may be binding due to the tubes being twisted in the clamps(easy to fix) or the bushings may be worn out(harder to fix). If the bushing have too much clearence, the forks will not work right. Don't confuse the bushings with the seals. When the seals go the fork leaks oil. When the bushings go the fork will have play in the fit between the tubes( which will typically cause the seals to go and then the fork will leak oil).Adding or subtracting oil is unlikely to make a difference if the forks worked well and then did not without a change in the oil level to begin with. If the bushings are worn out, I would pull the forks and have a pro re-build them. Replacing bushings in a fork is one of the few jobs on a bike I will not do. If the seals are leaking, they are not to hard to do but many would still take it to a pro. I would change them myself but I hate paying people for something I could have done myself.

The stock marzochi forks on a Guzzi are pretty poorly setup from the factory. The design of the forks is also a little weak. The compression adjuster does next to nothing as the compression dampning is only at the bottom of the stroke. Most of the stroke allows oil to blow out of the damper tube freely. This leads to a fork that easily blows thru the stroke and slams at the bottom into the one part of the stroke that actually has dampning. This can make you think your forks are too stiff when in fact they are too soft. One way to check to see if this is indeed what is going on is to tighten a tie-wrap around one of the tubes(skinnier inner tubes, aka the shiney ones) right under where the larger outter tube is. This tie-wrap will be push down the tube as the fork travels thru its stroke. Take a ride, and if when your done the tie wrap is at the bottom of the stroke you know the fork is blowing thru its stroke. If the tie-wrap did not move very far down the tube then you may have issues like too high an oil level in the forks or binding, etc. Setting up these forks can be done in a few ways. A good place to start would be to get springs made for your weight and set the sag.

New Guzzis have chips. V11s do not as far as I know.

Goverment cheese?

I'll buy one. How's your bike running with your "blended" map, Dimitris?

You may have ethenol added to your fuel year round(or whatever emisions additive is the flavor of the month), but I would be suprised if you actually have winter gas at all. Don't confuse emissions additives with winter/summer gas formulas. For cold weather use the blend gas differently so that it will work in cold weather better. Basically it has elements that evaporate at lower temps(lower vapor pressure) to help the engine start and idle. Summer gas has the opposite.

I had a 1200cc Buell that easily got 50 mpg. H-D may be a backwards company in many respects but they have a very efficient engine design that gets great fuel mileage and low emmisions. Guzzi could learn a few things from H-D, as long as they don't pick up on H-Ds bad habits as well(like oil leaks).

I would agree that the poor mileage is not due just to evaporation. Iwould think that is only a small part of it. But the things that help the fuel evaporate at lower temps so your engine can run in cold weather also do not contain the energy that fuel components that do not evaporate as easily contain. So gas formulated for winter driving will not return the fuel mileage that gas formulated for summer driving will. Plus the engine tends to run cooler which contributes to another loss of efficency and thus mileage. Most of the tanks that build pressure in the sun, in my experience, are non carbon can equipped.

Not positive about the V11 evaporative system because it's been off the bike so long but most systems are not sealed. There is a in to the carbon canister(s) and an out. The carbon is supposed to trap fuel vapors. If the tank was sealed, on a hot day it could rupture. That would not be enviromentally friendly. I know for sure my Griso had an in and an out to the carbon canister.