GuzziMoto

No headlight should be easier on the regulator rectifier. Sounds like you've got electron issues. Not to sound stupid, but check your basics like ground, alternator output, etc.

MotoMaster has fancy flame style rotor that looks interesting. They work well, but I believe they're stainless, like many of the others. My preference is for iron discs. Better co of friction. More consistent as well. But you should stay away from full metallic( and IMO semi metallic) pads with the iron discs. Braketech and Brembo are your best bets for iron. Although I must mention that they rust when rained on. Won't hurt the disc, but some don't like the look. I can't see them when I'm riding.

189 ml is a fair amount. I have always checked my oil levels hot. Always have, probably always will. Every manual I've read has said to check level hot. Even my mother checks her level hot(not sure what that means). But I do think consistency is the most important thing here. I don't think your motor will blow up because you checked your oil at the wrong temp. But checking it the same way every time will help you spot changes that may need to be addressed.

Hey, you know him too? In my house his nick-name is Youcrashagain.

Apparently dielectric grease does not conduct electricity, but it does not prevent metal to metal contact. It does shield the metal to metal contact so it does not corrode. There are things like Kopr-coat, that conduct electricity and heat, you can use. I thought I heard someone saying they put a ball bearing in there to help conduct heat from the head to the sensor. I think the sensor has a ground wire and all you need to woory about is temp transfer

I've only done it once, but I seem to recall taking the plastic piece off with the temp sensor still screwed into it. That may give the plastic piece more strength. But the metal piece is a better idea. I seem to recall people putting things in the gap between the sensor and the head when installed to improve heat transfer to the sensor.I think .

What he said. All I can add is that it's normal for the leading edge of the pads to wear more then the trailing edge, and that many rear brakes (and some front brakes) only have pistons on one side of the disk. When that is the case, it is very important that the caliper slide freely side to side(like butter).

Don't know about the specifics of the bolt your removing(side loads,etc.) but heating with a torch may help. If your brave, heat then spray penatrating fluid(careful most good fluids are flammable). Good luck.