GuzziMoto

That would explain it, if the 13mm master only ran one of the two front calipers and the other was off the rear brake master.

Yeah, a smaller master cylinder bore with the same size(s) slave cylinder will require more travel to move the same fluid and thus apply the same pressure. A difference from 13mm to 16mm is pretty large. Odd that Guzzi would use a 13mm master with twin caliper brakes. A 13mm master is usually for single caliper brakes. For example, I think the V7 single disk brakes use a 13mm master. You should be able to find a 16mm unit with an integral reservoir, even if it isn't from a Guzzi. The system doesn't know Guzzi or not. I would look for a quality master for a modern sportbike. For the brake side, the newer CARC bikes might be a good source. But if they use a different size for the clutch that might not provide the right feel, effort, and travel. As mentioned, a smaller master with the same size slave will mean less effort required but more travel at the lever required for the same travel / force at the slave.. A larger master with the same size slave typically means more effort required but less travel at the lever to accomplish the same amount of travel / force at the slave. That said, I would be concerned about everything clearing the fairing even when turned all the way. The remote reservoir allows it to be moved just inboard of the fairing. Of course, I don't have a Lemans, so I could be wrong. Maybe there is plenty of room.

The first picture in the comparison was of a gear drive that replaces the stock chain drive. It looks like the setup Joe Caruso offers. It replaces the stock sprockets and chain with a set of gears. It is three gears, one for the crank, one for the oil pump, and one for the cam. It is the bees knees..... I am also a fan of less rotating weight. Sure, more weight can make the engine more tractable. But less weight makes it snappier with quicker throttle response. But then, I like riding harder edged bikes on the street. Give me a motor with instant throttle response and more power than I need......

The drop in pistons are supposed to be the same weight as the originals, but have higher compression. If your piston weight changes, or the piston and / or rods are not the correct weight, you certainly can run into vibration issues. I am not sure that Guzzi built motors with connecting rods that were the wrong weight (lighter or heavier, either one would vibrate). But it is certainly possible. It is also possible that they simply did not properly balance some engines. Vibration can be caused by balance issues. Or it can be caused by tuning issues (the two cylinders not running evenly).

I would happily use Fast Bike Industries / Adreani if I lived in that area. In fact, I would consider them even living where I do. I do like having a suspension guy that is local. Generally I like doing stuff myself, but time is in shorter supply than it was when I was young. So I could see paying someone to do the job. The young me would do it myself. But I am not that guy anymore (sadly). I have heard good things about the Adreani fork cartridges. They seem to be a quality company. But the guy in the email might not understand that Guzzi used very different forks on the early V11 vs the later V11 and V11 Lemans.

I believe it was a Guilio Alfieri designed V6. An Italian automobile engineer that helped designed a number of cool Maserati cars and engines. And yes, cool all around. Imagine if you could buy something like that today....

Sorry, but mentioning the Boss Hoss in the same breath as that Laverda is just wrong.....

And that kit uses the original fuel tank. What I want is a kit that makes a V11, Centauro, or Daytona look like a MG01.

I rode a 1200 Sport, and compared to my Griso or the wife's V11 Sport it was something of a marshmallow. Too soft for my tastes, not precise enough. Also, the seat was not comfortable after 30 minutes. But you do you. Go with the one that floats your boat. A bike can always be fixed up if in poorer shape. And it can even be customized to suit. We replaced the clip-ons the wife's V11 sport came with (ironically) a set of Ballabio handlebars. Drill out the stock triple clamp and the Ballabio bar mounts bolt right up.

Here is a good source Left rear https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_156&products_id=83 and Right rear https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_156&products_id=84

What he said, it would determine if the house / property is suffering from subsidence. That is, the property settling due to possible mining activity underneath the property. Subsidence can be caused by other causes, but in this case I assume that it is possible mining activity that they are concerned with.

At first I was reluctant to respond as I didn't want to derail this thread any more than I already had. But then I remembered where this thread was and what it was about. And I suppose it is okay, as what you are drinking with your BBQ seems fair game for a BBQ thread. I don't dislike Bourbon, but I don't drink it often. There are so many other options out there that are either less expensive ("Bourbon" often seems to come at a premium price just for the name), better tasting, or both. For me it is not a matter of not having had good Bourbon, I have. And it can be good. But for the most part I find that I would rather drink other options. Some are also considered "Bourbon" but not from Kentucky, while others are just Whiskey. Right now getting Whiskey aged in Rum casks seems popular, and tasty. My favorite is Scotch Whiskey, it is hands down my favorite drink. A good bottle of Scotch will always win with me. But to each their own.

That is pretty funny. But you forget that the outhouse is still pretty common in Kentucky. And the result is there is no flush and it stays right there in Kentucky, so they can make Bourbon out of it. To be fair, Jack Daniels doesn't pretend to be "Bourbon". It is Whiskey, and darn fine Whiskey at that. I usually have at least one bottle of Jack in the house. I do prefer better Whiskies, but I rarely drink Bourbon. To many better options out there.

You can burn diesel in an oil furnace, and you can burn heating oil for an oil furnace in a diesel engine (although it is illegal to do so as it is tax fraud). For all intent the two are interchangeable. I view the current situation as a reminder that we really need to become less dependent on fossil fuels. For example, even though the US pumps enough oil out of the ground to cover most or all of the oil we consume, we are still subject to the global oil market as oil is a global commodity. If the world price of oil goes up the price of oil in the US goes up regardless of where the oil came from. While there is no easy light switch solution, it so happens that green energy is often also less volatile.

If you are sure you can get them just right, do it. I don't think lowered pegs are that big of a critical issue. For me I don't see a reason to go with lowered pegs, and that is including the fact that my knees are pretty F'd up. The difference between the pegs as they are and the "lowered" pegs is minor. I can't see where having my feet an inch lower would make any difference. And being able to adjust them is also minor. The amount of adjustability in them is very limited. The difference in lost ground clearance is going to be larger than the difference in comfort. But if it is something you want, and you feel those chinese pegs will allow you to get it just right, do it. Personally my motorcycles are my babies, and I avoid putting cheap parts on them. If I am going to upgrade them I do it with high quality parts. I don't try to pinch pennies when it comes to my motorcycles. If I do need an upgraded part, I buy the best quality I can find. Also, having a metal peg with a rubber insert like that seems silly. If the rubber insert isn't covering the metal peg there is no point to it as the vibrations would come through the metal to boot contact. Either have rubber covered pegs or have metal pegs. That half and half idea doesn't make sense to me. But you do you.

As I recall, lower pegs for a Buell fit with minor adjustments. If you search this forum you will find that lower pegs have been fairly well discussed and covered.

Should I bother pointing out that if you want to keep it cable drive you have to worry not just about does the cable fit into the drive port of the speedo but whether or not the ratio (how many revolutions of the cable to a given distance) is correct.

First you need to determine what your problem actually is. As mentioned, problems with the cable drive are more likely than a problem with the speedo itself. If it is the speedo, there are people who can repair them, but parts can be tricky to aquire as it is not considered "serviceable" by Guzzi. Probably the easiest option if the speedo is toast is a GPS speedo from Speedhut. That eliminates dealing with the cable drive. Other options include using a pulse driven speedo and getting a widget that converts the speedo drive output to pulses. That is what I have on my Daytona. It works, but it would have been easier to just go with a GPS speedo from Speedhut. But, as mentioned, I would figure out what is actually wrong, first.

Yeah, while the speedo can break internally, more likely perhaps is a simple issue with the cable drive. I would look into the easy stuff first.

I see, a typing error. My bad. Sorry. Typing error fixed. Thanks.

I assume you want a 6 speed case for a V11. I have a 5 speed case, but that probably doesn't help. Sorry.

There is nearly 5" of travel in the front forks of a V11. That is from fully extended to fully compressed. If you support the bike properly and raise the front wheel off the ground you should have nearly 5" (something like 120mm) of the smaller diameter fork tube exposed. That tells you how much actual total suspension travel you have. When the weight of the bike is on the suspension, that nearly 5" of travel would compress. If your fork springs are the correct rate, the front forks should compress around a 1/2" or so under just the weight of the bike. That would be 10% of 5" / 120mm. That should leave over 4" of travel, easily measured by measuring how much of the smaller fork tube is exposed. Full suspension travel in "upside down forks" is reached right before the smaller fork tube is pushed all the way into larger upper tube. Thus, measuring how much smaller fork tub is exposed tells you how much suspension travel is left. Some people like to have more sag under just the weight of the bike, maybe upwards of 20%. So that would mean nearly an inch of sag under just the weight of the bike. That would still leave nearly 4" of suspension travel left. If you run extra sag, you will have to adjust your target sag with you on the bike as well. And you will have less suspension travel to absorb bumps, but you gain droop, suspension extension. I would rather have more compression stroke of my suspension. But to each their own. Also, I think it is a good idea to balance front and rear sag. Often only rear sag is easily adjustable. I would set rear preload so rear sag is comparable to front sag. If rear sag is excessive compared to front sag that means riding down the road you will have poor balance and more relaxed rake than you should have. If you have less rear sag than front sag balance is still off, in the other direction, and the actual rake while riding down the road will be more aggressive.

No, that is correct. If you have sag right with you on the bike but not enough sag under just the weight of the bike that means your spring is too soft. Why that is is because with an overly soft spring you have to add more preload than you should to get the sag right with you on the bike. All that extra preload means that when you get off the bike, and it is now just the weight of the bike, there is very little sag because of all that preload you dialed in. It can be counter-intuitive. But if you set sag correctly with you on the bike, having not enough sag under just the weight of the bike means that you had to use more preload than you should have used to get your sag correct with you on the bike. That extra preload means less sag under just the weight of the bike. And if you end up with too much sag under just the weight of the bike but sag is right when you are on the bike, that means your spring is too stiff and because of that you needed too little preload to get the sag right with you on the bike. The stiff spring means very little preload, and less preload means more sag when you aren't on the bike then there should be.

To tell if your spring rates are right is fairly easy. Measure how much the bike sags with you on it in riding position. Get that sag where it needs to be, usually around 25% of total suspension travel. Then measure how much the bike sags under its own weight, without you on it. Both sag measurements should be from suspension fully extended, that is the baseline. Compare the two different amounts of sag. Typically you want around 25% sag with you on it and 10% sag without you. Some like a little more sag with you on board, maybe 30%. But either way. If you have the right amount of sag with you on the bike but not enough sag when it is just the weight of the bike your spring rate is too soft. The soft spring required too much preload to get sag correct with you on board and thus sag without you on board was too little. If the sag is too much without you on board after getting sag right with you on board your spring rate is too stiff. The second thing is, for the early V11 forks, the compression adjust does almost nothing. Until the piston in the fork moves past the bleed holes the valving and the adjuster do nothing. All the fork oil simply goes out through the bypass holes. If your V11 has a set of the early 'zook's the adjuster doesn't do anything until you block off those holes. A great tip when trying to dial in suspension is to tie a small zip tie around the fork or shock, the smaller the better. Tighten it tight enough that it stays where ever it is put. Slide it all the way against the moving side of the suspension, then ride. That will show you if the suspension is too stiff and not using the travel, leading to a harsh ride, or if the suspension is bottoming because it is using all the travel too easily. Suspension can feel harsh for either reason, it can be hard to tell the difference, but what is needed to be done to fix the issue can be completely different.

Those look cool. But, as mentioned previously I believe, the stock Guzzi top triple clamp has bosses cast into it where some versions of the V11 are drilled out to mount handlebar clamps. All you have to do is drill out those bosses with holes of the required diameter (for the size bolt) and either mount a set of BillyBob ( V11 Ballabio ) handle bar clamps or most any set of handlebar clamps can work. Just make sure the handlebar clamps are sized to match the chosen handlebar. We used BillyBob handle bar clamps and the BillyBob handle bar, both factory BillyBob parts. But aftermarket bars and / or aftermarket handlebars will work. That said, LSL stuff is nice. I have LSL stuff on my Daytona.