GuzziMoto

There is nothing special about adjusting the throttle cable slack on a fuel injected Guzzi. While I appreciate your ingenuity with the washer / spacers it is typical to simply adjust the threaded adjuster on the other end of the cable. As mentioned, if there are two cables (push / pull), adjust the opening / pull cable first. Make sure the closing (push) cable has slack and adjust the pull cable to where you are happy with the amount of slack. If, while adjusting the pull cable, the closing cable no longer has slack you need to add slack back to the closing cable. The closing cable must always have slack or it can cause the throttle to stick. Some slack in the opening / pull cable is required, or when you turn the handle bars one way or the other it may apply throttle. But how much slack is the key. As mentioned, I prefer the least amount of slack I can get away with in the opening / pull cable. But no doubt there is an actual measurement in the manual. Use the measurement, use common sense. It does not matter. As long as you still have enough slack so that turning the handle bars does not apply throttle, which might result in a bad day. Once you have the opening / pull cable where you want it, make sure the closing / push cable has enough slack. It should have more slack that the opening / pull cable. And it should maintain at least some slack during the entire range of the throttle travel. The closing / push cable should have slack the whole time you are twisting the throttle. There is no advantage to running the closing / push cable with a minimum of slack.

As I recall, the Guzzi set up only has adjusters at the throttle / bar end. I personally set mine so that there is almost no slack in the pull cable. I set it up tight, to where the idle just barely starts to rise when you turn the bars full lock. That means there is the least amount of slack you can have without the throttle changing when you turn the handle bars (OK, it changes ever so slightly). I find that the on / off throttle response is better that way. My Griso is really sensitive to it, too much slack in the Griso throttle cable makes it herky-jerky. I always set up the pull cable, the one that opens the throttle, first. Then I set the push cable, the one that closes the throttle. That closing cable is better if you leave a little slack in it. Too tight there can cause the throttle to bind. And removing all the slack you can there doesn't make the throttle feel / work any better.

Yeah. I occasionally toe the shifter to make sure I am in top gear, and I also flip the turn signal switch off as a habit. Having a gear indicator would be nice. But if it didn't work right I don't see how it could be a safety issue.

Clutches slip typically for two reasons. The first, and most common, is they are worn out. Excessive clutch wear (which would be the case if it was worn out in 20,000 miles) can occur if the clutch system is improperly adjusted / set up. It can also occur if the rider slips the clutch excessively. As Pete mentioned, there is typically an adjuster at the handle bar lever, and that adjuster needs to be adjusted so there is a certain amount of free play at the clutch lever. No free play at the clutch lever would be improperly adjusted and could / would cause excessive clutch wear. There is also an adjuster at the back of the trans, where the other end of the clutch cable is. That needs to be set to maintain proper geometry and if mis-adjusted it could put that clutch arm in a positions where it's full travel is impeded by something, like the frame or the swing arm. That clutch arm should not be up against either the frame or the swing arm, it needs to be free to move in and out. There was also an issue with some clutches where they had an issue with the throwout bearing. But that probably is not the case here.

Heck, maybe you could get Patrick Stewart to play you in the video. That would be awesome.

As Pete said, the speed sensor can be somewhat allergic to water. When it gets wet it can trigger that code. You can't clear the code until the issue is resolved. Drying the sensor (perhaps with a hair dryer) will make the issue go away. Sealing the sensor better will keep it from coming back.

I am not sure, but it sounds like it is a different version of the adjuster that connects the rocker arm to the valve stem. It seems it is machined differently so that it maintains proper contact with the top of the valve stem.

That is what they say. Better valves are one approach. Other approaches involve replacing the valve springs instead, which makes more sense to me. I wonder if that is what he meant. I am a fan of the Lario. Maybe I am just lucky that ours has not blown up. But so far it has not blown up. And it is thoroughly enjoyable to ride.

That looks like it would work. I am not sure how critical it is. And with your focus on "vulcanizing" I wonder about an RTV.... Would need to be thin enough to flow into the tight space, and might be a horrible idea. I use the stuff Slime sells, which looks to be more of a classic rubber cement and does not "vulcanize".

Sure, but with spoked wheels it is fairly easy to change the diameter of the rim. Although I have had a few bikes with a 17" front and 18" rear and always found that combo works well. What I really don't care for are 16" wheels.

That is good. I like that. I saw a blurb about the recall, did not read past the headline. If it really is just the gear indicator that really is some weak cr@p there. I can't imagine needing one in the first place, but to not be able to properly and safely ride because of one not working right? Just F'ing ignore it and ride. I had a Honda CTX for a couple of years. It had one, in part because it had their DCT trans. It was about as useful as those old "economy" gauges they would put on big American V8's in the 70's (that were nothing more than a vacuum gauge). If you wanted to have power you had to accept that your "economy / vacuum was going to go down. All the gauge did was let you see it.

Yes, they are. I work with them (building automation). If you have never seen a relay chatter I don't know what to say. A switch or relay that is pulsing between on and off can pass enough voltage to create a reduced voltage signal like it was an analog circuit. Either way.

Christ on a stick. I do not own a 3mm wrench. I did not think I would need one. I didn't even know they made wrenches that small. I certainly have a 7mm, and maybe a 6mm. But 3mm? Do you mean a 3mm Allen? ;-)

I did. That is what it sounds like is happening to me. I could be wrong. But my guess explains his description and conclusion.

I will be curious to see the response, but this is what I imagine it was. At idle the poor contact for the neutral switch was able to make contact, so it ran. As soon as you gave it a little throttle (still in neutral and on the side stand) the neutral switch lost contact and no longer said it was in neutral. With the side stand down if it looses the signal that it is in neutral and the clutch is not pulled in it will kill the ignition. I could be wrong, but that is what I think might have been going on.

I thought the neutral switch was not so much a switch as a ground. When the ground is made the light goes on and when the ground is not made the light goes off. If you disconnect the wire from the neutral "switch" does the light go off? If it does, check for ground at the switch. If it doesn't, you have ground somewhere else.

If it really bothers you, send your injectors to someone who can truly flow balance them. But I agree with Phil. It is not something I would loose sleep over. To add to the dynamics of it, because it is a 90 degree V twin with a shared airbox and exhaust there will be differences between the fueling of the two cylinders. And at different rpms the differences in fueling may shift due to the intake and exhaust timing and the relationship that timing has with fueling. The intake pulses from one cylinder can affect the intake pulses of the other cylinder and vice versa. The same thing for exhaust. But since the timing between the two cylinders firing is not even, one cylinder fires and a short time later the other cylinder fires then the time gap to the first cylinder firing is substantially longer than the previous time gap. These uneven intake and exhaust pulse can and will affect how the engine breathes. Meaning, as the volumetric efficiency of the two cylinders changes the fueling will change with it. Couple that with the difficulty of reading color as a indicator of lean or rich, I just can't see going down that road without more to go on. If you really are concerned, fit either O2 sensors or exhaust gas sensors to each header. Then see what you have. But really, the Guzzi system doesn't allow, as far as I know, individual tuning of the two sides. So, other than fudging the flow of the injectors what can you do? And fudging the flow of the injectors may back fire on you in ways you did not foresee. The most I can see doing, if you really feel compelled to do something, is have the injectors flow balanced. Replacing them you could easily end up in the same boat as chances are the new injectors aren't going to flow exactly the same amount any more than the existing injectors do. If it really was lean, lean to the point it was detonating or running poorly, I could see worrying about it. But as far as I can tell it runs fine and I have not heard of any issues with it. That is my two cents.

This is not exactly an answer to your question, but it is relevant in my opinion. I have done some modifications to my Daytona. All mods were done as bolt on / bolt off, so it is all reversible. I actually grafted an entire subframe / seat / tail section from a V11 to my Daytona. It required a fair bit of work, including relocating the battery and the ECU. I am not sure where the 1100 sport mounts the battery and ECU, but I assume it is roughly the same location as the Daytona. Where as the V11 mounted the battery under where the rider sits (not under the passenger seat) and the ECU is much smaller and as such fits in there easier. I had to move the battery (not too hard) and make room for the larger ECU (I made room under the passenger seat area, kinda where the battery used to be). The V11 seat is way more comfortable to me, and it looks good. But if I had access to an 1100 Sport perhaps that would have been the way I went. The V11 was easy because the wife has one for reference, so I knew what I was getting into before I committed.

I am not trying to judge the dealer, although I have seen some dealers do crazy shady stuff to up charge their customers. Some brands, it seems, do not allow their cars / motorcycles to be sold at prices much higher than msrp. So some dealers would actually falsely sell them as new and then turn around and sell them as used to get around that. We were looking at buying a Mazda MP3 years ago. It was a limited production car, but not in the high demand the Miata was. I walked into one dealership and they had tacked on a couple thousand dollars in "Additional Dealer Profit". The salesman asked if he could help me, I said no. I said I was interested in this car but not at that price. He said we'll, everything is negotiable. I laughed, and said that if they had the balls to put that on the window sticker like that I really doubt that we could actually get to a price where I would be happy. If they are that greedy to my face, imagine how greedy they are behind my back.... I went to a different dealer and bought one for around $1,500 below msrp. But I do agree that if people are willing to pay those prices it isn't all the dealers fault. But that doesn't mean the dealer isn't at fault, just that it isn't all the dealers fault. Not all dealers play those games. The ones that do can't complain when called out on it. So far I have not heard of Guzzi dealers playing those same games, and I hope they don't. They should just be happy that people actually want to buy their motorcycles. For now.

Yes, Joe's pump is a bigger improvement when you have a Daytona / Centauro then when you have a V11. That is what I have mine in. At the time I bought it he did not offer one for the V11 or I would have bought it as well. I expect both Guzzi's to last a lot longer. Because you can't buy a new Guzzi like that.They are not replaceable.

As mentioned, the stock oil pump is barely adequate and Joe's pump is better. If barely adequate is good enough for you, roll it. I went with the gears and a pump from Joe as they don't make Guzzi's like that anymore and anything I can do to make it last longer is a good thing. Mine is an older version of the pump, but even it is a higher quality oil pump than the stock unit. More oil pressure and volume, produced more reliably, is a good thing. It is possible that you will never have an oil pump related failure, but it does happen. Running Joe's pump I believe you dramatically reduce the chances of said oil pump related failure. Nothing in this is 100% certain, but Joe's oil pump is as close as you can be.

It sounds like way back when, the Miata came out and people lined up to buy them. Dealers didn't care and often raped buyers on the price.

As I recall, there are two different relays, four pin and five pin. If you get all five pin relays, they will work in any slot, four pin or five pin. A four pin re;lay won't work in a five pin relay slot. So it is better to only buy five pin relays. They will work in any of the five relay locations. The extra pin on them simply goes unused when you put a five pin relay into a four pin relay slot.

As I recall, make sure your headlight is properly lit when the engine is running. There is a relay that can cause the headlight to not lit (watch out, there is a secondary light, a running light, in the headlight bucket that may still be lit). If the headlight doesn't have power the charging system won't charge correctly as it senses the state of the battery off the headlight circuit. Relay issues are a common issue with these bikes. There are better relays available then what comes stock. Start the engine, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be over 14 volts. By the way, as I recall 12.84 volts is fully chared for an AGM battery like the Odyssey.

Cool bike. I bet it is fun. Not the looker a V11 is, but they can't all be..... My wife has a Monster 1100 in addition to her V11. I am not a big Ducati fan (although you might think I am by the two in my living room, but those two are special) but I do admit that I like the sound of it just blipping the throttle. It has a nice bark, way better sounding than most stock exhaust systems sound. I know it can get better with an aftermarket system, but when it sounds that nice stock there isn't as much motivation to drop a ton of money on an aftermarket system. Anyway, nice ride. Enjoy. Remember, the front tire doesn't wear out as much on those things.....