GuzziMoto

I have had great results with the Ohlins shop down in NC. It used to be run by Stig Petterson, I assume he is still the guy. Stig was great, he did the front forks in my Daytona (GSXR forks converted to fit a Daytona).

The other main option is an air leak. An air leak can cause that, it revs up with the reduction in load caused by pulling in the clutch, Any load, like having to spin the gearbox, and it doesn't rev nearly as high. But it is odd to have an intermittent air leak. Not impossible, just not common.

Either a physical issue preventing the throttle from closing 100% (even open a small amount will cause really high revs without a load) or an air leak. For it to come and go like that my money is on something keeping the throttle from closing 100%. If it happens again, reach down and manually try to close the throttle at the throttlebody.

I agree. I have talked to people that were telling me about how much better their MG Griso handles with a light weight Lithium battery in place of the stock battery. I had to laugh. Saving 5 pounds on a 500+ lb street bike makes no difference a person could feel. Does it look good on paper? Sure. But I am certain that in a blind taste test you could not tell the difference. As an old racer type, I like less weight. On my dirt bike or roadracer it is a very good thing. But unless I can save 50 lbs or so on my big Guzzi streetbikes I can't really see it making a difference. And I do like dessert.....

I find the low weight of Lithium batteries appealing, but I find the durability, longevity, and reliability, of the Odyssey vastly more appealing.

Then that may explain your problem, unless this is a result of the re-build. It sounds like something is preventing the piston in the master cylinder from returning fully to where the chamber where the piston is is open to the reservoir. I wonder if this was like that all along or if this is an issue with reassembly. I gotta say, I have never had to re-build a master cylinder. I have replaced a couple, as they are usually cheap enough to replace vs re-build.

If I understand you right, you should not be able to blow through the hose that connects the reservoir to the master cylinder with the brake line connected to the master. That is basically a dead end system when the brake line and caliper are connected. If you have fluid in the caliper and no fluid in the master it can be hard to get the master filled with fluid. My favorite way is to have enough fluid in the caliper where I can push the pistons in the caliper in to the caliper which forces fluid from the caliper back up into the master. Otherwise, another good way is to use a bleeder, either a vacuum bleeder or a pressure bleeder.

I have one of the first Griso 1100 2 valve bikes sold in the state of Maryland. It is titled as a 2007 model, but I bought it in 2006. I don't think there are any in the USA that are before that. But, you can get them fairly cheap and they are great. Originally I wished I had bought a later 8 valve Griso, but then when they started eating their valve trains I decided I was good with the "mundane" 2 valve motor. I think it was in 2009 that the 8 valve version came out, but it may have been another year before it was in the USA. But I could be wrong.

As mentioned a few times, simply having the brake lever mis-adjusted so that the lever does not allow the piston in the master cylinder to fully return can cause the brakes to drag and heat up which then causes them to drag even more and the whole thing just spirals down the toilet. Make sure the master cylinder piston is fully returning. You should be able to push the pistons in the caliper in and the fluid behind them should freely return to the reservoir at the master cylinder. If not, something is wrong.

I know they are steel. I do not know what alloy / grade of steel.

WD-40 could be bad. But another possible issue is the brake lever is not adjusted correctly. It sounds like the lever may be not allowing the piston in the master cylinder to fully retract. That can cause the brake to drag, and as it drags the fluid heats up. The fluid heats up and expands. Without a way to bleed the pressure from the expanding fluid the brake applies more pressure on the pads to the disk. Thus continuing the cycle. If the seals swell, that is clearly bad, But for it to apply more brake pressure as it gets hot points to te master not being allowed to fully return so that fluid can freely pass back into the reservoir. Another way it can happen is if the reservoir is over-filled.

That is great. Can I use that?

It certainly made the forum more active, but I can't say I miss RH.

Cracks in those boots are fairly common. Most of the time the cracks are on the surface and don't go all the way through. If you do have cracks that go all the way through you would want to replace the boots. Short term you could try silicone sealer or a section of rubber hose the right size. But long term replace the boots.

By the way, I like those boots, Jaap. I have worn plenty of racing style boots, and they are a good thing to wear. But now I am older and I find that boots like that are more useful to me.

We ride in Aerostitch Roadcrafter 2 piece suits. Sometimes we wear the pants and jacket, sometimes we wear just the jacket. The wife has a couple different pairs of motorcycle boots, I used to wear motorcycle boots but I have gotten lazy about that and now tend to wear generic work boots. We both always wear full face helmets and motorcycle gloves. Our favorite helmets are Arai, but we both own a variety of helmets. When comfort matters most, like on longer rides, the Arai helmets are the go to. My favorite gloves are RS Tachi, they are the nicest gloves I have ever worn. But we also each have at least one set of deer skin gloves. They are comfy and durable. I also have a set of elk skin gloves I like.

Before you blame the insides of the transmission I would make sure the external linkage isn't binding on anything. The distance the lever moves to change gears is not the same between all the gears, it seems to have to move farther as you go to higher gears. This can cause an issue with the linkage binding that was not there when shifting between the lower gears. KISS. Check the simple stuff first.

I am not the expert Meinolf is. But my two cents is.... I am not a fan of the way you are supposed to balance the Guzzi motor using the air bleeds at idle and the rod that connects the throttle bodies at 3k rpm. I would prefer to do what Meinolf says, close the air bleeds and balance the throttle bodies by adjusting the rod between them. That is basically how every other motorcycle I have balanced the throttle bodies / carbs has done it. I also prefer to use one throttle stop to set the idle. I feel that is better as it eliminates a possibility of inducing variation in opening the throttles. If you use two separate stops and the linkage develops play in it you may find that it opens the throttle body the cable is attached to slightly before it opens the other throttle body. I think it is better to use the throttle stop on the side the cable is attached to. The other side then should maintain the same relationship with respect to the first side regardless. If there is any play in the linkage it will always be held tight against the closed side of the play by the spring that is trying to close the throttle body. If anything I say on this seems to contradict Meinolf, I would suggest you listen to Meinolf.

Sadly I don't have your answer. Aside from basic tuning stuff like making sure the TPS is set right I have not had to do anything to adjust the fueling of my Daytona. Why do you say it is rich?

As I recall, with the emulators you weld up some of the holes in the damper rod and enlarge others so that all the oil must go through the emulator. Not to unlike the issue we have with the cartridge forks on the wife's V11.

It looks to be a widget that fools the system into adding more fuel, as everyone assumes that emissions means lean and to make it run better you need more fuel. That is an incorrect assumption. Word on the street is it fudges the temp sensor to trick the ecu into adding more fuel. I would not install one on any of my motorcycles.

Springs are easy to tell. Measure sag, measure how much it sags without you on board and measure how much it sags with you on board. Using those three data points (fully extended, sag under just the weight of the motorcycle, and sag under the weight of you on the motorcycle) you can figure out if the springs are the right rate. Add preload (or remove preload) until the sag with you on board is around 20% - 25% of the total suspension travel. Then see if sag under just the weight of the motorcycle is around 10% - 15% of travel. If sag under just the weight of the bike is too much when sag with you on board is right your springs are too stiff. If sag under just the weight of the motorcycle is too little when sag with you on board is right your springs are too soft. That is because it takes too much preload to get the sag with you on board right if your springs are too soft. There are at least two different versions of 'zooki's. To my knowledge both are cartridge forks. Simple cartridge forks, but cartridge none the less. On the earlier version of 'zooki's like on my wifes red frame V11 the compression dampening is non-existent as built because there is too much oil bypassing the valving stack. To get it to work better we blocked one of the two bypass holes so that oil actually had to flow through the valving stack. It worked much better after that and the dampening adjuster actually did something. Before all the adjuster did was affect the last inch of travel because that is when the piston passed the bypass holes.

I agree. While RaceTech valves or other brand valves are awesome I think springs are the most important aspect of suspension.

For all Pete's "colorful" opinion, I totally agree with him. I don't take issue with the small blocks or any of the other "retro" old tech Guzzi is selling or those that buy it. In fact, I kinda hope they make a bunch of money selling that retro stuff to someone else, but only because I then hope they will be able to afford to make something exciting with modern performance. Once upon a time Guzzi was a technology leader. It would be nice if they could at least catch up at this point.

If I had an adventure bike I would make at least one visit to the Moab area in UT. Arches and Canyonlands have a massive amount of trails, many of them are easy enough to do on an adventure bike. And the scenery is amazing. A ride out to Chicken Corner, across the river from Thelma and Louise point. Or the Schaefer Switchbacks. Or if you really want to push your limits Top of the World.