GuzziMoto

By the way, I just spent a few days last week down in Tennesee. We flew into Nashville, had lunch at Edley's ( the pulled pork was delicious, the banana pudding was amazing), then went up to Clarksville (where food was also good). We found a gas station seemingly no where with a BBQ restaurant in the back that was delicious. Excell BBQ.

Sorry, around here we smoke pork chops but we don't put BBQ sauce on them (at least not in a restaurant that knows how to cook pork chops. BBQ sauce goes well on BBQ (sparingly, it ain't sloppy joes). I do love me some smoked pork chops. As LowRyter said, a couple hours in the smoker and finished on the grill.

You should be able to use a meter directly on the socket for the bulb. You should have power between one of the two center contacts and ground when the key is one, and the other should only have power when the brakes are activated. Removing the bulb reduces the chance of voltage feeding back to light the other filament. I suspect docc is right, you have an issue with one of the two sides and the second filament is lighting due to voltage backing up that side. The question is, which side is duff.

Logic might suggest that the valve would be to let air INTO the tank, but I think for emissions purposes it was being used to only allow air to exit the tank towards the charcoal canister. But it is hard to know what an Italian is thinking sometimes. For emissions reasons they could not freely vent the fuel tank to atmosphere. They had to vent it to the charcoal canister in a controlled (read one way) manner. The charcoal canister would then, presumably, vent to the intake tract under vacuum. My guess is which way your one way valve was installed depended on the guy installing it. I am pretty sure some V11's had the valve installed in one direction while others had it installed the other way.

As someone who likes Utah, or at least parts of it, I am sad to see they are trying to attract Hipsters. That can't be good. Fotoguzzi, I am pretty sure those are PA / OH Millennials. The Utah Millennials tend to have money, white shirt, black pants, a tie, a bible, and hates Trey Parker and Matt Stone.

There should be two different lines from the tank. One is the overflow, which is the one from the rim of the filler. The other is a vent and that one is inside the tank. With the cap closed it is the vent line that vents the tank to the atmosphere. There was a one way valve in our V11's vent line from the factory, it can allow air in as fuel is used but doesn't allow air out. A common mod is to remove that one way valve.

Wait, you drive a Ford Escape and you hate Jap cars? I am confused.

Or you could just eliminate the crossover and run two separate pipes to two separate mufflers. Either way it will sound different and make less total power. But on a street bike the sound may be more important to you than the power. It is a free country. You really want to talk different sound, the newer Guzzis with a two into one sound much different. Personally, I prefer the newer two into one sound, but I get that some may prefer the two into two sound.

If the relays base, where they plug in to the wiring harness, is loose or corroded even a good relay will cause you problems. As Roy said, if you are having charging issues AND tach issues it is probably relay related. As he said, the headlight will also be affected (although not that small running light so if you have that light you may think your headlight is just getting dimmer).

It does that so it can use the atmospheric pressure as a reference for the fuel pressure. Typically pressures are measured relative to something else, like the air pressure in your tires is relative to the air pressure outside your tires. Your tire pressure gauge is actually measuring the air pressure inside your tires compared to the air pressure outside your tires. As mentioned, that nipple is providing the reference for the fuel pressure. If you connected it to, say, the intake tract using the same port you use for balancing your throttle bodies it would mean the fuel pressure would be maintained at the set pressure relative to the pressure (or lack there of) in the intake tract. I think some have tried this thinking it would run better, but it seems that it does not. Perhaps if someone put more effort into it, but I can't imaging it is worth it. Just leave it open to atmo.

I guess I am in the minority, I don't do much trail braking on my Guzzi's. They really do better when cornering on the throttle. In fact, I use the throttle much more than the brakes when riding my Guzzi's fast. Just don't slow down as much, use the cornering ability of the bike. Like running the "pace", but with throttle. Some bikes work well with trail braking, but my Guzzi's seem to do better with braking as straight as possible then feeding in the power as I feed in the lean. The wife's Ducati Monster on the other hand......

From the factory the V11 motor has crap for squish. There is a large bevel in the head that give most of the available squish away. There are pistons from Mike rich that match this bevel, bringing back the squish. But they are hard to get as availability is limited. The stock piston does not match the bevel so there is little squish. I had a machine shop mill the heads to gain most of it back, i.e., remove most of the bevel. Then I had the cylinders machined to where the pistons were near flush with the deck height. This set the squish at just over the thickness of the head gasket, tight by most peoples standards but more than we would run on a race motor. Squish and compression are your friend, but they won;t pick you up at the airport.

We bought ours a few years ago; like new condition, euro style switchgear, about 8,000 miles, perfect condition, one owner. We paid what I thought was a fairly high price, about $4k. But we know the shop selling it and trusted them. In the end, as is so often the case, it is only what someone is willing to pay. We were OK with the high price tag, because of the shape it was in, the dealer that was selling it, and what we would have bought instead (other options were more money). I suspect not many are willing to pay as much as we were, in part because of the bad reputation they have. But personally I would rather have a Lario than a current small block. They are really cool once you get past the mechanical issues.

To go further into the narrow band O2 sensor. It does not measure a static reading, it lacks the accuracy for that. What typically happens is when the motor is running in closed loop mode the ECU is cycling the mixture between rich and lean. It counts the passes between lean and rich, as I recall 1 volt is rich and 0 volts is lean. The cutoff point is right around 0.45 volts, above that (rich) very quickly becomes 1 volt and below that (lean) very quickly becomes 0 volts. A narrow band O2 sensor really lacks any kind of accuracy, especially in the region we want. It goes very quickly from rich to lean, near 1 volt to near 0 volts. The ECU uses this to find that cut off point between rich and lean and cycles the fueling so it is toggling back and forth from rich to lean to rich to lean. It cycles back and forth to make sure it is at the right mixture, the difference between rich / 1 volt and lean / 0 volts is pretty small. So while it is going back and forth between rich and lean it is never far from the correct mixture. And supposedly that cycling back and forth also happens to work better with the catalytic converter. But that last part may be outdated as many auto companies are moving towards wide band sensors for more accurate fueling.

The heim joints are many times the cost of the rubber bushing. A quality heim joint might be near 10$ while that bushing is maybe a dollar or two. While the actual price difference is likely only a few dollars if you multiply that by the number of V11s they made it adds up. Also, assembly is easier. The bushings are simply pressed in to the simply cast arm, no worry about setting the length. The heim joints are threaded in (first you need threaded holes to thread them into) and you have to set them to the correct length.

You could likely use a gearbox from an older Cali, but I doubt any of the newer CARC gearboxes will work. They certainly won't bolt up. I put a Cali / Bassa gearbox on my Daytona, under advice from Pete Roper. It was a direct bolt up deal. It did change the ratios a little, but other than that it was cake. I think the 5 speed Sport can use the same range of gearboxes. There are a lot of Cali / Bassa gearboxes out there.

Does it have roller tappets yet? If it is still a flat tappet motor there are all kinds of predictions of impending failure, especially from said Mr Roper. I don't think that motor uses hydraulic tappets, but I think you are referring to the cam chain tensioner. Hopefully it is something that easy.

Sorry to add a little fuel to your fire. But..... If you really do want to add a one way PCV valve to your V11 I think the best place to put it is not directly on the vent line from the crank cases but on the vent from the frame where it vents to atmosphere. That way you do not have a balance issue between the air going out to the frame and the oil going back in to the sump. If you fit a one way valve where the frame vents that should allow you to develop negative pressure in the crank case without affecting the relationship between venting to the frame and oil returning to the sump. I don't think it is actually worth it on a lump like the V11, but I do think it is an interesting idea. A vent like what Ducati uses on their racebikes for the frame vent right behind the steering stem (at the front of the gas tank on the top of the frame) would be what I would want to do. We ran those vent valves on both our Ducati race bikes. The logic is sound. The trick is to get it to work without affecting the oil return. Keep in mind, I am not doing this myself. Be careful if you do any of this. I would definitely use a clear hose for the return line to make sure it is not sucking oil out of the sump. That would be my one fear of any of this.

Yeah, to make it cheaper and easier to build. My Daytona has the same basic rear setup, in fact the V11 setup is an evolution of what the Daytona had. The Daytona has a rod with two heim joints, one on each end. But the Daytona had a list price way higher than the V11, and they did not build very many of them. They made a number of changes from the Daytona to the Sport, and then to the V11, many of them were simply changes that made the bike cheaper and / or easier to build.

In my experience there is a fair amount of oil that is collected and returned to the sump. I did run that for a time into a catch bottle on my Daytona. I switched it back after a while as it was a fair amount of oil. It is actually a well designed system as long as it is in working order. My issue with the Daytona was that the frame was not oil tight, so it leaked. I ran the breather to a catch bottle to stop it dripping out of the frame. After a while I decided that was too much oil and I sealed the frame so I could route the breather back into the frame. The stock set up works very well and does not cause issues, unless something is amiss. I would not change it. It isn't harming anything and it did catch a lot of oil on my Daytona.

What year Griso? Is it a 2 valve or 8 valve motor? If it is an exhaust leak and there is something wrong with the exhaust gasket no amount of torque will resolve the issue.

We had an issue like this years ago. The relay for that circuit did not work, which meant the headlight did not work. It was an intermittent issue, it would sometimes happen, but would work right the next time.The short term fix was to rotate the relays, as all our relays are the 5 pin ones. The long term fix was better relays and making sure the connections at the relay bases was good and tight.

You could T the return into the supply. You could connect the two sides of the external pump, the intake and the return, to the two sides of the line connecting the two sides of the tank. But you would have to re-do the fuel pressure regulator, perhaps adding a new one in the line where it T's back to the line connecting the two sides. I have not had an issue where I needed that last little bit of fuel, but I see no reason why you could not connect it so that the pump can pull from both sides of the tank. But the regulator would still need to be able to regulate fuel pressure at the injectors.

You can make a case for ANY Moto Guzzi being a "limited edition". None of them are made in large numbers. And the early red frame models are a little different than the later V11s (better or worse is a matter of opinion on that). But I am pretty much positive their were no "limited editions" of any of the red frame V11s. The greenies are the rarest of the three collors (of the red frame'rs). But they did not come from the factory with red wheels as far as I know. That is likely something done by an owner.

That looks to be a first gen V11 sport, one of the red frame bikes. In my opinion, the best V11 they made in the best color.