GuzziMoto

The bolt does not shear the head off until installed, so that bolt used to be doing something. As said, check your ignition switch and seat lock. It is possible that it has already been replaced, but that bolt fell out and those are the two places I can think of that use that style bolt.

Yes, the alternator rotor is mounted directly to the end of the crank. Not much there to rattle. The rotor is balanced. Later bikes have a front crossover between the head pipes, and that is a common source of rattling. Or it could be a loose head pipe at the head. If it only does it under acceleration it would not be a balance issue, balance it not only important under acceleration. It could be a loose exhaust, but it really sounds like ping / knock. What rpm are we talking?

I do like Mesa Boogie amps. My Subway Rocket Reverb is small but loud with great tone. I have an old 80's Kramer and a 90's Schecter with a solid quilted maple top and birds eye neck. If only I was any good.........

I have a '93 Daytona. I paid around $6k for it with around 12k miles on it. I ride it fairly often, it is my favorite Guzzi. I have put some effort into it to make it better than it came from the factory (the purists may scream). I swapped the forks to GSXR spec, in doing so I switched to handle bars. I swapped the seat / tail section to V11. The 4 valve motor is really cool, but not exactly known as a pillar of reliability. I have a gear set and oil pump to upgrade it, but I have not gotten around to it yet. The Daytona stock is a long bike with a reach to the bars. The stock seat is not comfortable. That is why I did some of the things I did to mine. But those issues aside, it is a seriously cool ride with a feel that nothing, not even a V11 can match. It is not a case of better or worse, it is a case of different. The Daytona has a long legged hot rod tractor feel. It goes pretty stupidly fast without feeling like its even breaking a sweat. The handling is like a V11 but longer and more stable. I love mine, but I can't imaging paying that much for one. Is it worth it to you? that is a personal question. I bought mine from one of my best friends. I rode it the day he bought it new and told him if he ever sells it I want it. 15 years later he was diagnosed will a terminal disease and decided it was a good time to sell it to me. Now it is mine and it is my favorite Guzzi. My Griso is nice, the wifes V11 is great, and our V65 Lario is pretty cool. But the Daytona is a special bred of Guzzi that has a rawness and appeal that newer ones lack. It is not a perfect bike, it has more quirks than newer Guzzi's do. But it is clearly different than any other bike I have ever ridden.

GuzziTech offer them but you might need to contact Todd directly. Another option is to find a used set (or new) from a V11 that did not have the F'n crossover at the front. Here they are. http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/gt-rx-v11s-headers-no-core/ and http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/gt-rx-v11s-headers/

I will throw this out there, my '93 Daytona uses a metal Heim joint linkage rod. It has no play and I can't see it ever wearing out.

I am short on time, but here is the quick and dirty. We pulled the steering damper on the wifes V11 when it failed. The failure was such that it caused the bike to wobble. We intended to replace the damper later, but the bike handled better without it. So we left the steering damper off. The wife rides pretty hard, the roads are not always racetrack smooth where we are, yet the bike does not do anything wrong without a steering damper. In fact it works better, the steering is lighter and you get more feedback. To some the increase in feedback might be a bad thing, but we like it. I will point out that her bike has improved forks (home made dampening improvements) and a Penske shock. If you don't have a steering damper you do need to put more effort into suspension set up. You don't need a Penske shock, but you should at least set sag. That is not a Guzzi thing, that applies to all motorcycles. Standard sag settings to me are, always measured from full extension, 10 - 15 mm of sag from just the weight of the bike and 25 - 35 mm of sag with the rider on the bike. If you set your sag with you on the bike where you want it and you don't have enough sag from just the weight of the bike you need stiffer springs. If the opposite is true and you end up with too little sag from just the weight of the bike you need a softer spring.

I hope the new / used Norge is working out for you, MikeDelta. While I don't go for the bigger bikes like that, any Guzzi can't a bad thing. They are all different from the standard rides. To terje_m, I am surprised it is so hard to get a test ride. Around here Guzzi dealers are still one of the few that usually offer test rides as they are desperate to get riders in the saddle. I assume the reference to cold is implying that the giant fairing the Norge has would be a good thing. I just wear warmer clothes or stop riding when it is that cold out. But I have ridden through the winter when I was younger and I did that without ever having a giant fairing, just warmer clothes. For me I went with the one that speaks to me the loudest. For the current Guzzi offerings that is a Griso to me. But that is a personal decision.

A failed steering damper can and has caused a V11 to wobble. Other things can also cause a V11 to wobble. I don't personally know if the steering damper was the cause of the issue or a result of the issue. I can't tell that from here. If the damper is bad, whether it was the cause or a result, you can either replace it with a damper of your choosing that fits the length and stroke requirements of the V11, or you can run without a steering damper. When the steering damper failed on my wife's V11 we removed it planning on replacing it later. The bike handled so much better for her tastes (and mine) without the steering damper that we never replaced it. When her V11 steering damper failed it was subtle but it would cause the bike to wobble. What hers did was it developed stiction, causing a resistance to begin moving. Once moving the initial resistance went away and it moved pretty smoothly. But that initial resistance caused you to have to apply more effort to turn the bars than it would require to keep them turning. This caused you to constantly be over turning the bars back and forth. You did not even know you were doing it. In my line of work it is like when we have a loop that is not tuned right. A loop (in my speak) looks at an input and modifies an output to hit a set point. If the loop constantly overshoots the set point we say the loop is hunting. That was what her V11 was doing. And that hunting was felt as wobbling. I am not sure if that could or would cause you to crash, not am I saying that is what happened in this case. I am just pointing out that a bad steering damper can cause handling problems.

I take it you can't get test rides on them? I found it easy to chose between them. The Norge was too soft for me. The Griso is also very much a looks bike. I am sure the Norge is a great bike for those that own one, I am not trying to say the Griso is better. I am just saying the Griso and Norge are fairly different. The Norge has more leg room. The Griso is a bit more sporty and lacks all the touring bike bits like the giant screen. Whether that is a positive or a negative depends on you. To me the fact that the Griso lacks the touring bike bits is a positive. I like that is just a straight up motorcycle without extra bits. The Griso is still the most comfortable motorcycle I own, but that is a relative thing. To some a Griso is too uncomfortable. I am sure it is not as cushy as the Norge or Breva, but I don't need something that soft and cushy.

Not having the system here to look at, can we not replace the original system with a rod and a pair of heim joints? That, if possible, seems like it would be the better way.An all metal heim joint, like is used for the shift linkage.

The problem with low tech / cheap fixes like that is that they can only move fueling in one direction or the other. This is seldom what you actually need, especially if you are making big changes like removing the airbox and installing pods.. The Power Commander allows you to adjust in both directions where needed. So does the GuzziDiag option, although that is not as easy as the Power Commander. GuzziDiag is very popular right now, and probably has the best capability in the end. Running pods for looks is fine, as long as you understand that overall power and sometimes ride-ability will be reduced. It is a trade off, gain style but give up performance. Even with fueling corrected it is still going to have less performance than it could with the airbox.

See the fourth post down. If you want more info on that do a search on this forum (or use Google). The stock spring for the fast idle is typically too stiff. The stock spring for the seat release is on the soft side. Swapping the two can make both work better. Or just replace the fast idle spring with a softer spring. But the seat release spring seems to work, at least for me.

I am all for scantily clad women, but some parts on my ladies perform a very useful function. I like to keep those parts whenever possible. Perhaps if you get ride of it off the handle bar but mount something down at the throttle body, like an old fashioned choke. That could be pretty cool and accomplish you goals as well.

As I recall, you can buy those sensors from a variety of sources. It is mostly a matter of finding one that will screw on to the Guzzi speedo drive fitting at the gearbox. I do like the idea of the simple installation of a GPS based unit.

I don't know why you would feel the need to remove it, but you certainly can. Personally, I think it serves a very useful set of purposes. The first thing it is good for, and clearly what it was designed to do, is help with cold start and warm up. Sure, you can do that manually, but it is much easier to use the fast idle control. Another thing it is good for is as a limited cruise control. Depending on how it is adjusted it can give you decent results in that aspect. There is a long standing issue with them, the spring was too stiff out of the box, Meanwhile the seat release spring was too weak. More than a few people swapped the two springs, making both work better.

My Daytona has a White Power rear shock..... With remote preload adjuster.

I get those rotor bolts off by applying heat via a torch to the rim where they screw into. I do this from the side, typically from the other side of the rim. You don't need to, or even want to, apply the heat to the brake disk, but you can apply the heat to the bolt if you like. But I prefer applying the heat to the rim.

Air tools are your friend, but they won't pick you up at the airport.

Sorry to be off topic, but I love tube amps as well. I have a Mesa Boogie tube amp, a little one, that I love the sound / tone of. I am not that good a player, but I like the sound of tube amps. Maybe it is not surprising on a Guzzi site that tube amps are also well respected.

I can see it now, an MP1100. Maybe I was wrong.......

The stock V11 wheels are pretty heavy as well. I would not be surprised if you were able to build some spoke wheels that were as light or lighter than the stock V11 wheels. Tubes add back a lot of weight, don't they? It is easy enough to convert a spoke wheel to tubeless. SuperMoto guys do it all the time. There are cheap ways to do it and expensive ways. A typical tube does not weigh that much, but it does add weight. The bigger reason to convert for something like a Guzzi is that flat tires aren't as sudden and repairing on the roadside is easier. Tubes tend to loose air very suddenly in the event of a flat, and repairing a flat cannot be done using a quick plug when you have a tube. So, you can run spoke wheels without running a tube. The cheap way to convert involves duct tape and silicone. As scary as that may sound, it is done fairly often.

The shift lever sticking is not clutch related. That is usually a case of adjusting / lubing the shift linkage, or it could be the shifter spring. It is not the clutch.

I believe they are talking about grinding down between where the rod big end halves come together (between the rod and the rod cap) to make the big end hole smaller, then you re-grind the big end hole to the correct size. That makes the big end of the rod new again. The bearings fit like new.

The cable in the picture looks a lot like one of the cables on my Griso. My Daytona also has a cable like that, but from the picture the Griso cable looks like a closer match. In case it helps, my wifes Ducati Monster 1100 has a throttle cable that looks a lot like the cable on her early V11. I don't know if that helps, but it could be something if you can't get the proper cable from Guzzi.