GuzziMoto

I was not trying to insult or other wise beat on AndyH or anyone else. Apologies from me as well. I was simply pointing out how I find it funny that people who do not feel the need to do something to their bikes often feel the need to mock or otherwise question those who do. The worst offender in that catagory was HatchetWacker. I am not saying Andy, or anyone else is anywhere near as bad as RH, just commenting on the behavior. Also, as I mentioned, I do like pie as well. When I was racing seriously I did not allow myself to eat pie. Nor did I drink beer during the racing season (still drank it in the off-season, I am not completely crazy). I do not race seriously any more so I do eat pie(s).

The main reason to go with a two into one into two is noise. You can run larger, more open, mufflers when you run two of them and still be under the noise/db limit. The power side of it is in the two into one side. The splitting back to two mufflers is more for noise reduction. I have never seen a real two into one into two system for a Guzzi, but sure you could build one. It will weigh more than a two into one and likely will not make any more power than the two into one system, but it should be quieter. In the end it depends on what you want. I do not claim to be a pipe builder, nor do I claim to know all there is to know about building exhaust pipes. I have worked with a real pipe builder in the past and he taught me a lot, including changing some of what I thought I knew. Feel free to google exhaust flow theory or whatever, more knowledge is always a good thing. One thing I can tell you is many people told us our two into one exhaust pipe was hurting power on our Ducati race bikes. But none of those guys ever went by us down the straight. Does a two into one pipe work the same on a 90 degree twin as it does on other engine configurations? No. But it do know it can work very well from personal experience along with working with a real pipe builder. The stock and aftermarket systems I have seen for Guzzi's, and V11s in particular, are two into two with a crossover or X pipe. That results in some of the benefits of a two into one into two system but the main aspect there is, again, noise reduction. In my opinion power gains are mainly in how you merge the two flows together (along with lengths and diameters of the head pipes). Splitting them up later does not really add power unless your muffler flow was not going to be enough with just one muffler, but it can hurt power if you don't do it well. One last thing, I have yet to see an aftermarket pipe built to the same standards as a custom pipe. I am trying to decide which two into one pipe to buy for my Aprilia RXV race bike I am building, as yet I have not seen one as nice as a custom pipe. I also have a pipe that a guy in Ca. has built for Griso's that is pretty nice, but it is no where near as nice as the custom pipes we have had built for our race bikes. For a street bike you likely do not need something that nice, but I totally understand WANTING something that nice. I want something that nice for my Aprilia AND for my Daytona. We will see which, if either, gets it.

"Clear on the 2-1 muffler volume As for the second part, Sounds like you know one or two things about exhaust-systems. I understand the part about the exhaust-pulses of the engine not happening at the same time. However the ''peaks & waves'' are still kind of hard to get my head round. If the 2-1 set-up does not result in a loss of ride-ability or lots of power i guess im a happy camper " The effect from the negative pressure wave getting back to the exhaust port is not a yes or no deal. The exhaust valve opens, then closes. If the negative pressure wave arrives at anytime during that event you will see some positive effect. Heck, even if it gets there slightly early you would see a small effect. Peak effect is when the negative pressure wave arrives right when the valve is opening. But on either side of that is still an improvement in scavaging the exhaust gases out of the cylinder. So, the effect is not a yes or no sort of thing but rather a wave with the peak of the wave at the point where the timing is perfect. But there is still a positive effect even when the timing is off one side or the other a little. Plus, as mentioned, with a two into one pipe there are two pulses, two negative pressure waves that are going back up the pipe. With a true two into two system would only have one. The two into two pipes with a cross over like Guzzi's have are somewhere in between. In my experience a properly designed and built two into one pipe will have better power, better "ride-ability" then a two into two pipe. What a two into two pipe is often best at is making maximum power at a given rev range. But less power everywhere else. So, if you are running the salt flats for maximum speed a two into two pipe would probably work the best. But for street running or roadracing a two into two pipe can work better. But a poorly designed and built pipe, whether a two into one or two into two, will not make as much power as a well designed and built pipe, regardless of type. You can make power with a good pipe and you can loose power with a poor pipe. My favorite collector style is a Merge collector. they are a cool design and you can buy one to use in your pipe. I am not expert, I only know enough to be dangerous.

For anyone truly trying to go faster you would be at least partially correct. But serious racers who are trying to go faster already don't eat much, if any, pie. No one here is likely in that category, although once upon a time I was. But that was some 50 lbs ago. And much pie. Sometimes people want to make their motorcycle better than it was when it rolled out of the factory. There is nothing wrong with that in my opinion. I do not think that everyone should do that but I do not understand why some people who choose not to do that feel compelled to express their opinions and mindset to those that do. I hate red motorcycles but I do not say anything negative to those with red motorcycles. Even in jest.....

I did not say the two into one muffler should be the same size as a two into two muffler. I said the two into one muffler does not need to be much larger than the two into two mufflers are. By that I was implying that it will be larger, just not twice as larger. Sorry, I could have been clearer. A common mistake is to think you are flowing twice the exhaust out of a two into one muffler then you are out of a two into two muffler. That logic assumes that the exhaust gas flow is constant and even. It is not, the exhaust flows in pulses. The pulses from one cylinder are happening when the other cylinder is not exhausting. Think of it as two dotted lines that you are merging together. If the dots don't overlap each other than they can be merged into one line. In reality, the size of the collector pipe should determine the size of the muffler. The muffler should be as big as the collector pipe in inside diameter. It can be bigger (more noise) but it should not be smaller. As two the idea that you can't make a two into one pipe act as a "true extracter (sp) exhaust system", I used to think that until a real exhaust guy showed me that it does work. I now know it can and does work if the pipe is made correctly. I have seen it with my own eyes. And there are at least two peaks of the return pressure wave helping the exhaust get out of the cylinder on a two into one system, while a two into two system may only have one. And it is not only at a specific rpm where it works but peak effect is centered at certain rpms. But the effect is more of a wave form with the peak of the wave at a certain rpm. And obviously, having two waves (as a two into one system does) allows for better coverage of the rpm range as a whole. And I think 68C meant with a 360 degree crank parallel twin you get an even pulse between both cylinders and thus is easier to make any kind of exhaust extractor pipe work. A 180 degree twin does not evenly fire its cylinders. In fact, it is more offset on the firing than a 90 degree twin with a single crank pin like Ducati's or our Guzzi's.

The collector itself is hard to build yourself and get right. I would suggest you buy that part. And a two into one pipe should not need a muffler with an inner pipe/baffle much larger then a two into two pipe. They are both flowing the same amount of exhaust at any one time.

Oh, and if you, or anyone else wants to try to build your own two into one system you can buy a variety of pre-made collectors from a number of sources.

Yea, it is complex and just building a system without understanding all that is a crap shoot. There are so many factors, length of the primary pipes, diameter of the primary pipes, the length and shape of the collector and the following pipe, length and diameter of the muffler. And that is just the basics. There is power to be made in the exhaust, but also power to be lost. With our Ducati racebikes we worked with a guy named Herb Gebler. He was a dedicated exhaust builder who built all kinds of high performance exhaust pipes for all kinds of race motors. Much of the little I do know about exhaust pipes was either learned from him or proved through working with him. When I first started working with him I thought I knew what I wanted. He showed me that his way (which involved a two into one pipe for our Ducati) was better than my way ( a two into two pipe). That said, I still would like to build my own pipe, not because I think I can do it better than the pros but because I think it would be fun and cool.

with this, do you mean more grunt from lowdown in the RPM band? Because thats what i use most during my rides. Another benefit of a 2-1 is the fact that i only need one muffler, saving me some money. @Don, I found something on their site. Only one small picture unfortunately 380 B pounds still sounds like a lot of money. I guess I prefer building something myself, hopefully learning something in the process. Thanks for sharing though! It does not always mean more power down low. It can, but really it is often more about mid-range torque. And a proper designed two into one should make more mid-range torque across a wider rev range than a two into two system. The best way to think of it in my opinion is less peaky. The GPR system looks nice, and I doubt you will be able to build one for significantly less then that. I have not used one yet, but those that have seem suitably impressed. I would put one on the wife's V11 but she likes her bike the way it is. My Griso has a two into one as mentioned and when I get around to it I want to try that GPR system on my Daytona. I would also prefer to build my own for the Daytona but I know reality is it will take me much longer and cost me more than just buying the GPR system.

I am a big fan of 2 into 1 systems. We ran them on our Ducati racebikes, and they did well power wise. They sounded like the Devil himself as well. Way better then all the other Ducatis with twin cans. And my Griso has one, seems to work well but I did opt for a right side exit reverse cone system from a guy in Cali. It sounds great as well. It seems most people with Guzzi's, and Ducatis, prefer the two into two systems. I don't know why. A two into one system has more of a snarl than a two into two system does. A two into two system has a deeper sound with more emphasis on the individual thuds of each cylinder. The two into one system kinda blurs them together. But that is what it does, it applys the energy of one exhaust pulse to help the next one in the other cylinder get out. Technically the stock V11 system is a two into one into two system but the junction between the two pipes is very short and does not do a good job power wise to apply the energy from one pulse over to the other cylinders exhaust. A well designed two into one system will have a larger area under the power curve. A two into two system might make more peak power but likely less power everywhere else.

The Galfer rotor is interesting, if it fits. If the pads overhang the slightly smaller disc they can be trimmed, but I am not sure I want to deal with that. I look forward to hearing how things go with the Galfer disc. I am more likely to have a stock disc lightened as I know it will work. But it is good to have options.,

If you haven't already looked at this kind of stuff, check out what some are doing. http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137588 http://www.speedysgarage.net/hondacbr1000rrweb/1000RR_mods/1000RR_lightenedrearrotor/lightenedrearrotor.htm The first link is awesomely trick. The other is more like what anyone can do. It is funny if you read all the comments, even in the realm of sportbike guys there are still many who don't get it and get all worked up about what others are doing even if they have no direct knowledge or experience with what they are talking about. Kinda reminds me of HatchetWacker.

Damn straight. Brakes only slow you down anyway. Please don't mistake any doubts I express for in any way saying don't spend money on your Guzzi. As long as you can afford it (and even sometimes when you really can't) do as much to your Guzzi to make it yours as you can. Titanium is cool. Will you feel a difference? probably not. But it is still cool to have bolts, or even an axle, made out of Ti. I also agree that iron discs are better, but that is mainly for the front discs. At the rear, hell, you could almost use aluminum. Almost. There are more than a few that have machined their rear brake disc, filling it with holes or whatever, until it is the bare minimum to stop them. It is a common racer trick as aluminum or titanium discs are typically not allowed. But for street use a titanium disc would be awesome. How well would it work? Hell, who cares. Think how light that would be. If you have not already done so, more than a few have used a Lithium battery. I have one one my Griso. Can I feel the difference? No. But I know it weighs less and it seems to work. The first Lithium battery I used did not work out so well. It did not have the amps to start the bike unless it was warm. The second one, Ballistic, seems to work better. My dream is to build an aluminum frame for my Daytona. Easy to dream, hard to pull off. Measuring the bits you take off compared to the lighter bits you replace them with is key. It serves two purposes, it lets you tell us all how much weight you have saved and it is the main way you will know your 500 lb Guzzi is only 490 lbs. Hard to feel a 2% reduction in weight. But go for it.

I agree with the others, you could not run the rear brake rotor all together and you would not notice it, until you tried to stop. If you want to run an aftermarket rear rotor, go for it. But if the swept area of the disc does not match the swept area of the pads issues can arise. The pads, if they overhang off the outer edge of the disc, can wear down until the the parts of the pad that do not contact the disc (and thus do not wear) are touching. When that happens you pretty much loose the ability to apply that brake. Other options are there are companies out there (or you might be able to do it yourself, or find a local machinist who can) that will fill the brake disc full of holes to make it as light as possible. Brake discs are pretty tough so it may be hard to do it yourself with a harry home owner drill press, but where there is a will there is a way. Another option would be to, as you already mentioned, buy an aftermarket brake disc. But I doubt you will see a 2 lb reduction in weight there. Unless the aftermarket rotor has considerably less material it will not weight considerably less.

Sweet, very nice. I wish I could justify the money on the Ohlins cartridges. Maybe next time. I have no doubt they are worth it. I did drop the coin on a Brembo adjustable master from Todd at GuzziTech.

Looks great. I hope it will work as well for you as it looks.

My wifes early, red frame, V11 had clip-ons. We swapped to bars. The stock triple clamps had the bosses for bars and only had to have the holes added for the risers. I could see about looking for a part number on them.

Almost everybody makes wheels for GSXR's. The hard one is finding someone who makes wheels for Guzzi's. If they make wheels for Guzzi's they almost certainly will offer a wheel for a GSXR. I don't need the wheels to match, I just need them to look like they go together. Close is good enough, especially once I paint them some sort of charcoal grey to hide the dirt. What I want for the front (the GSXR front end) is a carbon wheel like from BST. A carbon front wheel dramatically improves handling.

It is a matter of personal taste, at least to some extent.... But I can't seeing CHOOSING to put a 5.5" wide rear rim on a Guzzi. I know you will have a larger assortment of sticky tires to choose from and all that, but a 180 (which is the size typically made to fit a 5.5" rim) just seems like more tire than required for the job. The other question is clearance, I thought with the 160 I have on there now there is not much room, I would doubt there was 10mm as would be expected required to go from a 160 to a 180(but I realize it is seldom that simple in terms of math). You may find that you either have to go with an undersized tire or perhaps some brand 180's will fit and others will not. The aspect of clearance is just speculation, as I mentioned I still have the stock rear rim on mine, I actually like the 18" rear rim. I had an FZR 400 with the same set up. I thought it worked well. That said, those rims are sweet. I would be very happy with either the 6 sp, the 5Y, or the 7Y, rims. Did they say how much it would cost? Oh, and another option would be fitting wheels from a later version Daytona or Sport.

It is not a common practice with ANY fuel injected bike. The early bikes had an external fuel pump and fuel filter. Both should have been bolted to opposite side of the spine as I recall (not sure...). The later bikes had the pump and filter inside the fuel tank. Running an fuel injected bike without a fuel filter would be a bad idea. The holes on the injectors are very small and it would not take much to clog them. And you gain nothing by doing so. It would not be faster or make more power.

I am not sure what he meant. It would be easy enough for someone with a set of those forks to measure them. To me, I do not want my forks canted out OR canted in. Doing either is wrong. The forks should be parallel to the steering axis. Otherwise it becomes less like a motor bike and more like one of the shopping carts with the wobbly wheel. Proper rake and trail is easy enough to achieve with no need for stupid shit like raking out or raking in the clamps. The shorter GSXR forks is a good/bad scenario. The shorter forks increase rake, which would normally decrease trail and decrease stability. But the decrease in offset adds trail back which counters the steeper rake and also allows the increased weight on the front to help. As long as you maintain enough trail I think overall the GSXR fork is a positive step.

Canting out the triples to get more rake is a horrible idea. Glad the wifes V11 does not have such issues. A GSXR front end will be shorter which means steeper rake, but it will also have substantially less offset which means more trail. The extra trail should help offset the steeper rake. As I have mentioned before, you can by extended forl caps for some GSXR front forks. I did not use them on my Daytona (I did not realize they only make them for some GSXR forks) and the steeper rake coupled with the increase in trail worked out really well. The bike steers excellent and does not need (or have) a steering damper. That is not to say that my Daytona is the same as your V11, but it may work out fine, still. I would try it and see.

I'm still here..... I don't have as much to say as I don't have to point out that HatchetWacker is wrong again. I much prefer the site now.

Sorry about the wrong dimension, my bad. Glad they can exchange them for you. Did you read the thread about the swap? It probably has some useful info (maybe without the numerical errors) for you if you are doing this as well. There have been a few people who have done this type of thing to their Guzzi, you are not alone. There is a wealth of aftermarket for GSXR's. I would look for a top clamp there before going for a custom clamp. Spend the extra money on a nice radial master cylinder for the stock GSXR discs and calipers. I went with an adjustable Brembo unit from Todd over at GuzziTech. He sold it to me for a fair price and it is nice to support a fellow Guzzi guy. Glad to hear you sent the forks to Stig. He is a great guy and has always done nice work for me. Let me know how it goes. Edit; I just went out and measured the steering stems I have laying around from my GSXR projects and they have a 30mm stem diameter where the bearings are. I hope your 28mm diameter is correct. Mine necks down to 28mm to go through the top clamp but where both bearings are it is 30mm. I have not played with a '09 version, though. '07 is as new as I have messed with.

Not what I would do but I like where you are going with the half fairing. I always like seeing people who are not afraid to take something and make it different.