GuzziMoto

Not sure but off hand I would suggest you check your charging system. You may have a charging issue at higher rpms and the tach would be affected by voltage issues. Other then that you may have a physical issue inside the tach but I have not run into that before.

There are more then a few people who are very happy with the way the new Guzzi's, including the 8 valvers, fuel including Pete Roper. I think proper set up is key to that but there is always the possibility of individual bike or rider differences. Mine has Todds fueling kit and I am happy with it. Mine is an 110 2 valver, though, with Todds right side exit pipe and open airbox top.

I seem to recall the way the exhaust on my 93 Daytona connects together is different then the way the wifes V11 connects together. Beyond the difference in size of the bikes (the Daytona is longer) the joints where the sections fit together are not at the same places as I recall. Not sure about the last junction where the muffler connects to the crossover. I assume yours does not have the same fugly colostomy bag crossover the earlier Daytonas had. I will try to check this evening. My Daytona has a StainTune but the stock parts are around somewhere. I will say the StainTune system is nice. I would think it could be MADE to work but I doubt it is a bolt up affair.

Yes, the stock one was junk. We took it off the wifes bike when we noticed the handling got weird. the damper would bind then let go when you tried to turn the forks causing the bike to kinda weave down the road. We did not replace it but went without. The steering is lighter without one and it does not shake its head.

Yes. While I am never a fan of taking one of my bikes to a mechanic I have had Art there at EM do a clutch replacement on the wifes V11 as I did not have time to do it. And he was pretty thorough finding a couple other issues that I had not yet noticed. He also re-built a 5 speed box for me. He is not a clean freak, but he seems to be a good mechanic. And the shop is an interesting mix. They really do Guzzi for fun, their bread and butter is vintage cars (mainly Porsche) and bikes are something of a sideline. The nice thing about that is they do not need to float the business on the bikes. The down side is they are not a true bike shop and don't stock things like accessories. All in all they are the only shop in the mid-atlantic right now that I take my Guzzi's to for work if I can't do it myself.

It sounds like you have a dealer problem AND a clutch problem. The dealer problem likely needs a new dealer. I don't know about dealers in NY., but there is a good dealer near Harrisburg, Pa. The clutch issue is odd and seems to not make sense. Normally if you have slack in the cable then that means the clutch actuator mechanism that pushes on the clutch to disengage it would be at its home position applying no pressure on the clutch throwout bearing and the clutch would be fully disengaged. Once at that point the clutch cannot be MORE disengaged. Disengaged is disengaged. I would suspect that something may be amiss in the clutch cable and/or mechanism preventing it from fully disengaging the clutch. Then, someone adjusted the clutch to what seemed to be correct (but resulted in clutch slip when the clutch should have been fully engaged) and the resulting clutch slip excessively wore the clutch. That should have been noticeable before it became this much of an issue. The clutch does not typically wear excessively from a lack of disengagement but rather a lack of engagement. If the clutch does not fully disengage then the resulting clutch drag would be very obvious and make it difficult to find neutral as well as creeping forward. And it still would not cause excessive wear as the amount of time and rpms involved would be low. Lack of engagement is not as obvious but should have still been noticeable before it went so far as to toast the clutch. I would definitely want a second opinion.

What docc said. Use the weight required for your temps and I also prefer an SG rated oil. Newer grades like SL and SM have less zinc and phosphorus and do not seem to work as well for flat tappet motors. I would personally not use a non-synthetic oil, and I am not scared of "energy conserving"oils for a Guzzi as the motor oil is not shared with the trans and clutch (no oil in the clutch) but the oils I use are not energy conserving oils.

Did you read the thread I linked to that covers it? The first line starts out with a quote from Paul, "The last 2 years I've been busy with others to work on diagnosics for the guzzi ECU and now reflashing it too." It goes on to explain what you need, what you can do, and how to do it.

The new thing now is that you can flash the ecu yourself. That way you can flash it and re-flash it as much as you need to. It offers all the adjust-ability of the Power Commander, plus it sounds like more. It also lets you access the ignition map as I understand it. Prior to this you had to run a MyECU to have that kind of adjust-ability. The Power Commander is OK, as mentioned I have one and it works well for me. But the ability to adjust the ignition timing would be awesome. Some people have the stock ecu and are happy with it. Others found they needed to improve on that, either because they had modified their bikes or they were not happy with the way their stock ecu ran the bike. I took the original question to be what are the advantages of the Power Commander. In my experience the advantages are better throttle response and improved drive-ability more the out right power. If you are happy with the way it works stock and don't have a need to improve that aspect of your bike than it may not be worth it to add a Power Commander. Plus, as mentioned, there are better options available now.

The wifes V11 has a Power Commander. It is an earlier red frame model. The Power Commander was a big improvement, not so much in absolute power but in improved drivability and better response. If yours has an O2 sensor then the results may be somewhat reduced without taking the sensor out of the loop. If you buy a Power Commander I suggest you buy one from someone who actually knows Guzzi's as they are not really well supported by DynoJet and having someone with a good map database will help a lot. Todd at GuzziTech comes to mind. I would suggest you go with whoever can support you with maps and technical support the best rather then who is the cheapest as Power Commanders are just like every other computer, garbage in garbage out. That said, the current trend seems to be reprogramming the stock ecu. It seems like a better way to go, but I had already done the work for the Power Commander so unless an issue arises I probably won't open that can of worms. But if I was to have to do it all over again I would seriously look into it. There is a thread here that covers it. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865 I would read that before deciding.

I have done the same thing to the wife's red frame V11. So far so good but I have heard of issues with the coating coming unstuck. I assume that it was a prep issue that caused that. I let her tank dry out over winter and then coated it in the early spring. I have not noticed any issues yet.

As fugazzi says, adjusting the TPS move the ignition advance curve. But putting the airbox back on (why did you put the fuel pump there?) would be the way to make the bike run as it should. Without the airbox the bike will never run as well as it did with and it will end up being a compromise. Can you live with the compromise? Maybe, but why would you. I wouldn't.

Sorry to hear that. Most people seem to get a lot of life out of the original battery and/or an Odyssey replacement battery (they seem to be the same battery).

As mentioned, the Shorai Lithium battery I tried in my Griso did not work out so well. Very nice looking battery at a reasonable price considering.... The Shorai I put in my DRZ 400 SM SuperMoto was still working strong when I sold it. So far I have not heard from the new owner of any issues with it. The Shorai just did not seem to have enough CCA to start the Griso. Part of that my be down to the ECU aborting the start attempt if it senses too low a voltage. The Ballistic 16 cell does seem to have more CCA power. But it is nearly twice the price. The weight savings seem unimportant on a bike as heavy as a Guzzi. All I really want is a battery that fits and always starts the bike. The Odyssey batteries seem to be that battery. The LiPo batteries are cool and they do mostly work, but in a straight up contest between an Odyssey battery the LiPo battery would lose in my experience, as long as weight was not part of the criteria (just power).

It is not. You may be able to MAKE it fit but the frame is different.

I have not had an issue with the Odyssey batteries I have. The original battery in the V11 is of the same quality as the Odyssey, if not from the same factory. I have had issues with Yuasa and other lesser batteries. This is not to say that YOU should not use a Yuasa battery, just my experiences. As a result of said experiences I found myself in a bind for my Griso. The original battery had expired, as had the "quality" one that replaced it. At that point I got tired of throwing money away on "quality" batteries. Odyssey does not make one that fits the Griso. I own an Odyssey that would run the Griso fine but it is fractionally too big. So I bought a Shorai. It began to have issues withing the first month but I persevered under the guise that there are electrical issues I could correct that would allow the Shorai to work. Finally I gave up and replaced the Shorai with a Ballistic 16 cell. It is too early to say but so far so good. My experiences with the Odyssey batteries are they are very forgiving with regard to treatment. The sell their own trickle charger so clearly it is ok to use with a trickle charger but I don't think I have ever done so as the hold their charge so well. I have on occasion put it on a standard charger if the voltage was allowed to drop over a long period of time. The only issue with trickle chargers I am aware of is if an Odyssey battery is allowed to become discharged a trickle charger does not have enough power to properly re-charge it. A real charger is required for that. The V11 alternator is not exactly high output but it puts out enough as long as you do not have issues with the voltage sensing connection of the R/R. My Daytona puts out less voltage and it is ok with the Odyssey battery. Put a volt meter on it and measure. The voltage should get over 13.5 volts (hopefully over 14 volts) when you bring up the rpms.

That is funny, I guess it is a matter of preference but for my wife and I (she rides her own V11) the seat of the V11 is very comfy. In fact when I needed a seat for my Daytona so I could ride it long distances (that is an uncomfortable seat) I went with a V11 seat. It does not look like a seat that would be comfortable for a passenger however, but we don't typically ride with passengers. I do agree about the clip ons, both her V11 and my Daytona have handle bars to replace the original clip ons. For the V11 it is fairly easy to swap to handle bars as there were V11's that came stock with handlebars. From there it is just a matter of finding the right set of bars. We don't ride as much as we would like but we do ride out to Indy for the MotoGP race. Typically 1500 miles over one week with three days at the track. Maybe I'll see you there.

The first part of suspension adjustment is setting sag. That is done by turning the preload collar on the shock at the rear. I believe the Ohlins had a remote adjuster for that. Unless you have non-stock front forks adjusting preload at the front is something that requires taking the forks apart. Setting sag has been covered here and else where at great length. Mainly it is measuring how much the bike compresses the suspension from full extension both under its own weight and under the weight of the bike with rider(s and luggage). Typically you want around 10-15% of the suspension travel to compress under just the weight of the bike and 25-35% with the bike, rider(s), and gear. When you add more spring preload typically you also want to add a little more rebound dampening. You may also want more compression dampening but that depends. You have to remember that adding preload does not make the spring stiffer(unless you have replaced it with a progressive spring) so if you need to add preload because the bike is carrying more weight then you also likely want to add compression dampening to help control that extra weight. My suggestion, add enough rear preload so that the bike sit roughly the same level with the extra weight as it did without the extra weight. A good trick to do this is at night using the headlight to show you the attitude of the bike. Have the headlight shining against something like a wall or garage door. You want to be around 6'-10' away. Take note of where it is hitting, how high it is shining. Then add the extra weight. Then add preload so the headlight is shining at roughly the same height as before. Now add a couple clicks of compression and rebound (clockwise on the adjusters). Then ride. If the bike seems to wallow or feel pogo'y (bouncing up and down) add more clicks a couple at a time until it feels controlled.

The stock cross over is more about reducing noise. There are a couple different crossovers available and there are differences between them and the stocker. If you search it has been covered extensively. There is also at least one two into one system available.

The other option would be replacing the stock tach. Speedhut has some nice tach options, along with nice speedo options and combination units. Here is one of a couple threads where they are discussed. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17892 That is mainly about their speedos but as mentioned they do tachs as well.

You probably could make an entire V11 system fit but as the V11 is shorter it would likely require a bit of adjusting, some creative engineering. Other options would be a complete system from a newer Guzzi. The basic engine layout and dimensions are much the same as they have been, but would likely also require some creative engineering.

This is what I was referring to. From Wiki, but I have seen it mentioned elsewhere as well. "Moto Guzzi was limited in its endeavors to penetrate the important scooter market as motorcycle popularity waned after WWII. Italian scooter competitors would not tolerate an incursion from Moto Guzzi. By innovating the first large-wheeled scooter, Guzzi competed less directly with manufacturers of small-wheeled scooters such as Piaggio (Vespa) and Lambretta. To illustrate the delicate balance within the Italian post-war motorcycle and scooter markets, when Guzzi developed their own prototype for a small-wheeled scooter, Lambretta retaliated with a prototype for a small V-twin motorcycle threatening to directly compete on Moto Guzzi's turf. The two companies compromised: Guzzi never produced their small-wheeled scooter and Lambretta never manufactured the motorcycle. Notably, the drive train that Lambretta made in their 1953 motorcycle prototype remarkably resembles the V-twin + drive shaftarrangement that Guzzi developed more than ten years later, ultimately to become iconic of the company." Guzzi made big wheeled scooters and started developing a small wheeled scooter, and Lambretta started playing with the 250 V twin. That 250 V twin may have been in response to Guzzi developing a scooter small wheeled scooter. Guzzi stopped developing small wheeled scooters and Lambretta stopped playing with full size bikes. At least that is how I understand it. But I could be wrong.

As I recall the Lambretta was a tit for tat manuever. Lambretta was getting too close to Guzzi's market with that one so Guzzi came out with a scooter. Lambretta promptly caved and stopped encroaching on Guzzi's market.

As mentioned before, 12 mm is not much and may work just fine for you without extenders. I'm not sure what the offset is on those, hopefully they are around 30 mm. The required bearings run around $40 or less on the internet. A bit of work to fab mounts for the gauges and headlight. I bought fancy mounts for the headlight and found that I preferred some homemade ones I adapted using stainless muffler clamps sized to go around the tubes with a little foam as a cushion. Then I made some brackets to attach to the clamps and hold the headlight. My speedo/tach combo attaches directly to the top triple clamp at the same location as the ignition switch. It has a rubber mount incorporated into it. I do recommend you read the thread I posted the link to in the other discussion, it has some pictures and some info/ideas that may be helpful.

I mounted the Guzzi ignition switch in the Suzuki location. Required a couple small spacers ( I used what I had laying around) and no longer allowed the steering lock to work, but I never use that anyway. Depending on the location of the switch mount on the '09 forks you may or may not be able to use the steering lock. Do they offer fork extenders for the '09s? I seem to think they do but if I am right they are more expensive then the extenders for the '06-'07s . Which displacement GSXR? There are differences between them. As to sending your stuff to Racetech, they certainly do plenty of business. But I don't send my stuff there. I would think they could do a decent job. I have used PPS, and trust him. But I am sure others like Racetech could do well for you.