Molly

Thanks guys. I did see that they do a dedicated V11 stand. Pretty sure I can use a couple of 18mm sockets / longer bolts to make the 9T one work. A guy was clearing-out his garage and sold it to me for £20. I figured you can never have enough means of getting a bike off the ground ;-) Weather's been pretty good this Easter break. Done about a hundred miles on those Road 6s now. Such an improvement. My old tyres weren't a matched set and were more than ten years old. Truthfully, when buying the bike from a dealer over in Wales I forgot to ask for the date codes on the tyres (does anybody do that?). So I've been bimbling around on Bakelite for eighteen months. It seems to track so much better through the corners now. Turns much more easily. I keep a GoPro on the bike. Recorded this on one of my favourite Isle of Man roads yesterday. Bit sheepy but lots of twisty undulation in the second half.

Thanks guys. I have that list printed out actually. Appreciated. I have a large selection of lifts, supports, stands, lumps of wood... Recently got hold of a lovely, German made impromptu centre stand / tool made for the BMW R-NineT. I think it can be adapted for the V11. By the way, the Michelin Road 6 tyres have really improved the handling. Anything would've I guess as the old ones were ancient.

Thanks. I've already been ruminating on this actually. Weather is forecast heavy rain tomorrow too so that seals the deal. Out into the garage I go to take the wheels off. :-)

Thank you for all the replies. Very much appreciate you taking the time to write them. Job's done. Now for new tyres. :-) Going in tomorrow for a set. Been a long time since I rode a bike on nice, fresh rubber. Pilot 6 in this case.

Thank you, gentlemen. Appreciated, as always.

Sorry guys. After help again... Doing clearances. Right side. D marker showing. Piston crown visible. No play in rockers. Backed off completely. Still no play. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance. Do appreciate your help.

Thanks Marty. Heading back to Methven come August (all being well). Will shout you a beer.

Fortunately our fuel doesn't contain ethanol. Some fortunate quirk of Island life.

Thanks chaps. Appreciate you taking the time to compose those replies. I should investigate my bike's plumbing a bit more. When I drained the oil I noticed only one oil line next to the drain plug, whereas the illustration showed two (one either side of the drain plug). On my bike, one is blanked-off. Might be unrelated to oil temperature but I was curious about it. Thanks again.

Confess, no. It had an oil and filter change when I bought it just 2000 KM ago. I was changing the oil because it's been about eighteen months since then. I don't tend to do short journeys but living in the Isle of Man perhaps my journeys are in fact short.

Hi guys. What's causing this? I'm just doing a service. The oil I dumped looked ok but the inside of the rocker covers has me concerned. Thanks in advance for your advice.

Thanks. Some have come up on ebay second-hand that look good. Appreciate the help.

Thanks. I noticed some fold inwards so I'd be looking at those. Also, some seem to fit over the bar end weights. Wary of cheap and nasty. Lots of Rizoma on eBay though so I'll look at those. Thanks again.

Good morning from the Isle of Man. Considering bar end mirrors but wonder how much vibration I'll get through the handlebars once the bar end weights are removed? Anybody bought bar end mirrors and found them to be unsuitable on a V11? Thank you in advance.

Ooo.... This looks promising. For my V11 at least. Not so much for the Cali (period of ownership). Thank you.

Thanks for that. I'll look again. I'm a returning NZ citizen and have had one of the bikes about eighteen months. My mates over there have commented recently that the government seem to hate motorcycles and do anything to make life difficult / expensive. As an example my annual bike tax here in the Isle of Man is a tenth of the cost in NZ.

Thank you all for the replies. I'm afraid I can't win this one. I've taken a few bikes to NZ in the past but that was before rule changes. The Special Interest thing is confined to just 100 bikes per year. What's frustrating is that I'll do exactly the same miles on a bike bought there as imported so what difference does it make? Kind of taken the wind out of my sails. Got my Cali through the stringent Manx test this week so it must be roadworthy. Christ, I should take them out as 'parts' and just ride the things.

I'm shifting to NZ later this year. Looks like I can't take my bikes as they don't have ABS (convoluted rules written by people who have never ridden so much as a scooter). I take it the prospect of fitting ABS is a non-starter?

I must've been lucky with my recent disassembly because the wheel came apart without issue. Pity I hadn't read this at the time or I'd likely have taken the opportunity to drill the rubbers. As for super sticky grease for spinny parts potentially exposed to water, I swear by Castrol Optimol Paste. It was recommended for the splines on a BMW final drive I serviced and I've been using it since on all sorts of things. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373738695763

I cleaned the heck out of them. Skinny wite brush in my drill and copious amounts of brake cleaner. Marked with a paint pen too. Cheers.

So, it's all back together. The drive shaft now 'telescopes' like it should (it was solid!), the needle bearings in the right side of the bevel box actually move (they too were utterly corroded to a single mass), and everything else has had a good clean and grease. The old drive shaft bolts were munted and I think that's because the shaft wasn't moving. Could be my imagination but gear changes seemed smoother. More snick-snick rather than clunk-clunk. Thanks for your help along the way with this. Much appreciated, gents.

LOL. I'll put this one up there with the time I demolished a 'stuck' Harley fuel cap that turned out to be left hand thread... Thanks guys. Bit premature in my posting there.

Erm.... Should this chap be playing a part? It was hiding in plain sight...

Reassembling the rear end. Factory manual says 120nm on the torque values page and 28÷30nm in the wheel parts section. Whatever that means... Thing is, the wheel is solid - won't rotate - long before 120nm suggesting to me that there's a spacer missing as I must be applying lateral force to the bearings. Any advice appreciated. 2001 Greenie.

Thanks Docc. I'll look at all that. This one is now replaced.