dp.guzzi

Those last two pictures are really scary. I hope I can sleep tonight.

Well, we took it apart, replaced two of the springs even though there was nothing wrong with them visually, and put it back together. It shifts fine now in all gears. I don't know why it works now but I do have a theory. I think it just wanted to know that somebody cares.

The wheel spins freely now - the selector fork was not in the middle of its shaft. So that's ok now. I was looking for good pictures of the transmission gears. Any recommendations for helpful pictures or diagrams?

There are 4 shifter forks and they all move freely. With the wheel off the ground and the clutch pulled in, the rear wheel rotates only about 30 degrees. Uh oh. What's going on?

37,000 miles on bike. I have had broken springs in the past. The current problem is that I have neutral, 1st and 2nd. I figured it was a broken pawl spring. I have it disassembled, but the springs all look ok. Now what?

Well, yesterday I took her out and rode a little over 100 miles. It is a unique machine. It is a good thing that the speedometer overestimates the true speed, because I looked down and it said 100 mph. And that was just in my driveway. No, just kidding. But fortunately, no police around at the time.

Well, nowhere today, but two days ago the temperature was in the 40s and I took a 117 mile ride, the odometer turned 37,000 miles, and it was glorious.

DP reporting back. I've been busy so not much riding lately, but today I managed to find the time to ride115 miles and everything worked fine.

Thank you very much Roy, Docc and fotoguzzi. I put it all together this morning, and much to my amazement, everything works. The red light is off, the battery charges to 14V, the bike runs great. Once again I am in love with my Italian mistress. At least until the next time she is unfaithful.

I put a ground from the voltage regulator to the frame here (where the screwdriver is pointing). I put a 30 amp fuse in the red line from the battery (you say 40?). I think I'm ready to put the tank back on but I have to go to work now. Maybe tomorrow. When I try to start it up, I'll roll it in to the driveway, out of the garage. I don't want to burn the house down.

What do you think of this: 30 amp fuse between alternator and voltage regulator. Or as an alternative, a circuit breaker? There are 2 yellow wires from alternator. If I just fuse one is it good?

This is the melted connector from the double yellow that looks like it comes out of the alternator. I did not remove the insulation; this is the way it looked. I wonder what caused the insulation to go away. I wonder if the melting means that the alternator output it too high. Opinions? Another bit of info: about a year ago I got stuck 300 miles from home, and a dealer replaced the stator. Anyway, it sounds like I should put a ground strap on the voltage regulator base and another one on the battery negative. I can do this, but I'm not sure which bolts to ground it to. It would be great if one of you would post a picture of which bolts you have used. I know it sounds simple, but I am a real amateur.

This is the end of the double red from th new VR

I got the voltage regulator (VR) out. The picture on the left is it. It has a double yellow, a black and white and a red and green. The green goes to the battery negative terminal. I found a melted wire connector (on the the double yellow wire). The new one is on the right. It has a double yellow and a black and white. It doesn't have a red and green, but instead it has two reds that join together to a single pin (I will post a picture of it below). In other words, there is no ground. There was a wire on the right side bolt that held the original VR down inb place. Is this a ground? What should I do about not having a negative lead to the battery?