Gio

Where did you install it? (Sorry - couldn't resist that one. I had to file just a little out of the stock hole to get the bolt back in, but not much..) Gio

Here are some measurements I made during the installation of my Roper plate : 2000 V11S. Standard black dipstick (L= 185mm, H= 157mm from top of threads) Based on Rylands work, I made a new mark (H2) the at 140mm (157 - 0.69") Pre-Roper install level was ~5mm below H2 and ~12mm above H Drained vol (incl filter and oil cooler lines - quite a bit in there..) was measured at 3.5l (plus some loss) I conclude from this that with spec 3.5l, stock H mark is at least 12mm low. Fitted plate. H2 mark is ~5/8'' or 15mm below plate (confirmed by scratch marks caused by contact betweem edge of hole in plate and dipstick - thinner dipstick required. Filled with 3.58l (measured) which gave a level at approx stock H mark. Added a further 0.2l for a total of 3.78l - this gives a level somewhere between H and H2 - hard to measure as contact between plate and dipstick gives false reading. Best estimate is ~2mm above H (or ~13mm below plate) as checked with a thin wooden dowel marked at same levels. I think 4l would fit below the plate but am not sure how far below the plate would be optimal (professor Roper?) - for now I'm happy with 3.78l and am using stock H as the new low and Rylands H2 as new high. (Question - if oil level was too high and being blown - where would you first expect to see evidence, if any?) This may be wishfull thinking or biased imagination, but bike feels (and sounds?) much better ..! Thanks again Pete (and others) for this. Gio

Based on 3 fill-ups (20.9 l in 283.9km), around-town fuel-consumption has improved from 12.5 to 13.6 km per litre (35.4 to 38.4 mpg) or an increase of 8.8% - not as much as I had hoped for but I'll take it. Bike runs great - some evidence of running leaner (a little cough and splutter after decelerating from speed to tick-over eg at lights) and hope to fix that at next tune-up. Plugs look fine. Gio

No need to remove airbox Pete - was just commenting that there is not enough room to get a straight shot with an impact driver - managed to get the little bugger out after cutting a slot in the top. Gio 100% agreed. If I was getting your reported fuel consumption of 18/21 km/litre (mine is currently 13/15) I would not have bothered - but based on other reports I think this is worth a try - stay tuned for actual results ... Gio

OK - I managed to remove the lower portion of the stock holder by cutting a slot across the top (need to remove oil line to valve housing to allow small hacksaw blade to pass between cooling fins) and then using impact driver bit - it did not move easily! Replaced with brass holder. Filled all voids with Copaslip and checked temperature (at top of brass holder) ~100 C when engine fully warmed up which rises to ~110 C max ~2 mins after stopping. Will report back on any change in fuel consumption. Gio

Thanks Dave - as there is not enough room for the entire impact driver (without removing the airbox) presumably you just used an appropriate tip and a regular drive ...? Did it require much force? Also and for those fortunate enough to have removed the black plastic top and lower part as one piece (Ryan?) - can you confirm my expectation that the lower stock part is threaded as per brass replacement .. I'm anxious to try the new sensor holder as I have full history of poor fuel consumption (~12.5 km/l or 35mpg around town to ~15 km/l or 42 mpg on highway) ... Cheers, Gio

I just removed the sensor (have the brass holder replacement ready) but unfortunately the black plastic top part disintegrated - can anyone suggest how to temove the lower metal part of the stock holder that fits into the head - I assume this part is also threaded (as per brass replacement) and so requires a very thin-walled 16 or 17mm socket ...? Vice grips ...? Dynamite ...? Gio PS - with sensor mounted in replacement brass holder - at shop temp (~20c) = 3.73kohm (spec = 3.75), in ice/water (0c) = 9.6/9.9 kohm (spec = 9.75)

Welcome to our club Gargoyle - I got used to the bouncing odo needle several years ago but last w/e the tach needle decided to park itself at 8k - I plan to try the old silicone spray to see if needle can be un-stuck ..? Gio

I just heard about a shop in Scarborough, ON called Euro Corsa who are offering to re-build the stock Bitubo for $130 CDN (incl shipping within Canada) ... my stock unit is still leaking (after 5 years!) but I'm not sure that re-building will help based on the track record of the Bitubo ...? Gio

Hi Brian, (and Van, Jim, Pete) I just re-activated my PM (sorry anyone if it bounced back) - I will take one plate and as I also get parts from Valley can be sent there for pick-up. Will PM you to confirm. Gio

Hi Brian - I left a message (with Gord at Valley) for Jim but did not hear back from either ..? Gio

Ratchet Re steering head - no detectable play in forks but reckon I could tighten the 32mm easily by hand between 1/4 and 1/2 turn from memory (ie probably 1/2 to 3/4 turn required to tighten) ..? My test is a local hill which I can coast down hands free without any wobble. I was also experiencing some shake under hard acceleration. With the new bearing a 1/4 turn past finger tight did not impart any resistance to the steering. Re fork oil - I do agree with your recommendation re the air gap method but having drained out almost the 400ml (380/390 anyway) put in last time, I took the easier route and re-filled w 400ml. With hindsight this may have been a mistake. Did you record the volumes required for each leg using this method ? - I would be interested to know how close (or not) to 400ml they were? If one knew these volumes they would be a better guideline for the re-fill method. Gio

Some of this should probably follow previous threads, but here are some observations made on my 2000 V11 during recent service (57,000 km) : 1. Fork oil change Stock forks with 120mm (+11) spacers. Drained vol (springs in place, 400ml per leg last service) R=380ml, C=390ml over 2 days. Re-filled with 400ml of 10w again - R will only take ~350 at first but 400 if allowed to settle, and in fact settles at a visually lower level than the C leg) (Ratchet - I know you will give me some stick for doing it this way - do you measure the volume of oil per leg needed to acieve equal air gap of 100mm ... enquiring minds ?) 2. Steering head inspection I had been experiencing a little head-shake (even with Mr Bitubo cranked up to +10 although I don't think there is any oil left in there) and found the 32mm head nut very loose. Bearings seemed ok - a little doubt re the top set so replaced that one and tightened with a 32mm wrench ~1/4 turn. (Canadians - you can get a very nice Filzer 32mm cycle wrench from MEC for $18) Test ride was satisfactory. Felt a little firmer up front and no head-shake. New tires next. Gio

Any news? The suspense is ... Gio

Jim, You can count me in for one - I'm in Burnaby but also visit Valley on a regular basis. Please confirm - hope I'm not too late to get in on a bulk order ... Gio

Leight Plugs from Howard Leight (NRR 30dB) Soft, effective and last well. Can't find them in Canada so a friend sends them from the US ($2.99 for 5 pr from Big5) Gio

Looking for a belly pan (chin spoiler) for my 2000 V11 Sport. Would prefer green but would consider other. Gio

Further update (and apologies to non-Canadian viewers...) having ordered the last 160/60 rear from Fullbore, I learned later that Parts Canada do in fact still have availability (despite contradictory information on the registration page)...so act quickly if you are interested. Thanks again to Dan and Jim for the heads-up. Gio

JJ - don't worry about the groan - seems to be "normal" behaviour (my 2000 V11S has always done this when pushing the bike backwards- even after a ride). A good cleaning sometimes fixes the groan temporarily, but it always seems to return. Other than mild annoyance, I have found no other problem or excessive wear on the pads. Gio

Update for Canadian customers - I just ordered the last 160 from Fullbore... Gio

Jim - where is Full Bore located? Gio

Thanks for all the replies and info. Did anyone experience any interference with the kick-stand on the left side...? Gio

Did a quick search and only found a few references to the belly pan (and many more to other bellies of various descriptions) - I'm thinking of the one offered by Motomecca in the UK (original green of course)... Comments or thoughts anyone? A close-up pic of one fitted would be appreciated. Gio

Hi again, I also have additional measurements where I sat on the bike with gear and bounce up and down a few times in an attempt to simulate a "dynamic" situation (NB this is not dynamic sag as measured with a zip tie after a test run - can't find these notes) : Stock (111mm) spacers measured at 124-75 = 49mm (~40%) Longer (120mm) spacers measured at 125-100 = 25mm (~20%) Again this is for stock springs, 10w oil and ~180lb plus gear. Gio