Gio

Antonio, Not so fast on the new battery (although this could be your problem) - I too have experienced the battery light coming on for a few seconds at a time (usually at around 2 or 3000 rpm but also when first starting if idle is low) for several weeks but my battery still seems to be charging ok so I have not worried about it too much. Gio

Anyone have any feedback or comments on the (new) Bridgestone BT-014? I'm running BT-010 front and back (160) on my '00 V11S, will need a new pair soon and have no reason to change.... Gio

As an actual owner, 1. I have no hesitation in recommending the Magni fairing (was a little tricky to fit) 2. In fact the stock green is a perfect match... Gio

Thanks Al....I knew there must be something better than olive concentrate.. Gio

I had some problems with the wires on the electric petcock also and repaired about a year ago with JB Weld. Now it looks like I have a slight leak at the mount point... I have a manual petcock ready to install but recall that the stock electric unit had some kind of sealant on the flange. Anyone have any suggestions for a suitable sealant for the flange/threads..? Gio

I concur with Janusz. I have an '00 V11S and am still using the stock gaskets. Gio

Good job Ian, I just used my Twinmax for the first time tonight and found your report very usefull. The Twinmax is certainly a lot easier to use than the old carb stix but I do miss the quantitative measurement (eg cm of mercury) which was usefull for comparison with previous readings. I wonder if anyone would care to comment on the significance of say 1 division on the Twinmax scale (at max sensitivity). Here are my results for example : A= LHS, B= RHS cylinder. Twin max zeroed and set at maximum sensitivity Both by-pass screws set at 1 turn out. Valves just set (at 6 and 8 thou) 1) Before balancing At TO = ~400 Veglia rpm* = 1250 power commander rpm gave 1.5 divs toward B At ~2000 Veglia rpm = 3000 power commander rpm gave 1 div towards B 2) Turned bal knob ~1/5 turn clockwise At TO = ~400 Veglia rpm = 1250 power commander rpm gave 1 div toward B At ~2000 Veglia rpm = 3000 power commander rpm gave 0 div (ie balanced) Almost no deflection on application of throttle...and bike rides just great. What kind of results do you get? Gio * PS - I don't expect super accuracy in a tach but this is a bit much...

The flasher unit on my '00 V11S was sarting to fail and so in looking for a replacement.... Stock item = Wagner 552 (2 pin) @ $35 US (from MG)...ouch! As an alternative (for north America at least) = Tridon HD12 from local auto parts store @ $7.76 CDN (~ $6 US) and seems to work perfectly... I like to support my dealer whenever possible, but not at these prices. Gio

Having lived in the UK and now Canada, I use metric but can only really relate with imperial (eg typical fuel consumption is measured in km per litre but I relate to mpg - real gallons that is ). Gio

Docc, I purchased a manual petcock from Moto International - part # 011054600 - not fitted yet. From the photo in the guzzitech post the ratio of body to intake assy is 45/63mm but this ratio is 45/87mm on the one I received - which sounds like the one you have...? Gio PS - The one I received did not come in a MG bag

With "every-day" riding, I usually see the low fuel light at around 200km at which point approx 15 litres is required (~38 mpg imperial) I have run-out of gas once - and made a note that it needed a re-fill of 21.04 litres. Last Dec I almost ran out again (spluttered into the gas station) this time needing 19.99 litres to fill. So I think that in round figures, of the 25 litre capacity, only around 20 to 21 is useable, leaving 4 to 5 litres in "reserve" which agrees with Al's measurement. This also means that I have around 5 useable litres after the light goes on. Gio

Hi docc, I just checked my notes and in answer to your question I was measuring between 80 and 90F on what I call the RHS fuel line (return line) regardless of VL or not...? (eg expt #4, 84F at t=15 mins w VL followed by expt#5, 91F at t=15mins no VL) Al, I'm also thinking that a fuel cooler would only be of benefit whilst the fuel is moving - if we are indeed victims of heat-soaking, then unless the cooler was located at the "hot-spot", this would still occur once fuel flow stops...? One thing does seem consistent with VL - if you can start and keep running for a few minutes, you are usually ok (presumably due to the displacement of heated fuel?) Gio

Hi, As far as the price is concerned, there are no distributors in Canada so I purchased directly from Magni. I would not have paid what distributors in the US were asking. Pierot makes some good points - I too had to spend some time getting the fit just right - but it can be done with patience. The stock clip-ons will not work. On the up-side, the finish and colour-match (green in my case) is superb. Wind protection is actually very good with no handling issues and an improvement when compared to naked. The mirrors work just as well as the stock ones (slightly less shoulder in the view) and I do not find the engine noise to be a problem. I have also used the additional space above the headlight to re-locate the fuel filter (see VL thread...jury still out on this). I too am recommending this fairing. Gio

The noise from the rear-end seems to come and go. I had it return recently (most noticeable when pushing backwards) but since it was time for a new rear tire, in addition to taking the opportunity to lube the shaft, I also cleaned the caliper and put a little grease to the swing-arm pin/ caliper holding bracket - no more noise. Gio

Hi emry, Good points - it would be interesting to monitor fuel pressure (if one had a gauge...) I confirm that the stock electric petcock is fitted to my '00 V11S (but plan to replace this with a manual one)... Gio

Al, This is a bizzare co-incidence. I had been riding without any VL problems since re-locating the fuel pump and filter - untill last Friday. It was unusually warm and sunny day (~15c) and I took the opportunity to go for an extended ride at speeds appropriate to the road conditions. After parking in an underground car-park for aprrox 30 minutes, I returned to experience my old friend Vapour-Lock on exiting, resulting in stalling and the need to park up outside for ~30 mins whilst things cooled off in the breeze outside. I thought I had seen the last of this problem, but apparently not. I still think it has a thermal cause and will report the results of further investigation. Gio PS - happy VaLentines day...

I'm running 0.10/0.15mm clearances (4 and 6 thou for our imperial friends) and according to Mr Veglia idle is just above 1 division (~500 rpm) but seems much happier at around 2 divisions (~700 rpm). I think the actual value is probably closer to 1000 rpm (...?) Once warm tick-over is no problem. Gio

Necessary (based on an '00 V11S) Oil cooler brackets - check Replace or carry spare relays Headlight bulb shield? Re-plumb fuel system (see VL thread - not everyone affected) Drill drain holes in tach housing (misting - again not everyone affected) Check rear drive assy greased (some dry) Rear wheel bearing failure? (brake side) Keep shift mechanism lubricated / upgrade trans fluid for better shift Ensure rear brake pedal has some free-play (stock was ~1mm, 5 to 8 mm advised) Nice to have K&N filter PC Mistral cans Airbox mods Tank bag and Tekno bags Fly screen or better still - Magni fairing Gio

I concur with R-B. I just use an old spagetti sauce jar, about 3 feet of 1/4 inch id clear hose, an 8mm spanner and some DOT 4. Crude but effective. Gio PS - A third arm is usefull...

I just had the same problem tonight. I tried the relay wiggle/swap but still no starter. Then I remembered someone posting about having to turn the bars before being able to start...so I tried this and was able to activate the starter. Turned out to be the clutch micro-switch and or associated wiring so I removed the offending switch completely and inserted a short bullet connected link between the connectors on the left side the spine (need to remove the tank to get at these). Wheras the side-stand micro-switch is arguably usefull, I see no usefull function for the one on the clutch lever...as long as you pull the clutch lever in before starting... Gio

No worries - I hope you are able to overcome your VL problem. Gio PS - Still no VL since the last modifications..

I didn't spend all that time working on the VL (vapour-lock) problem for nothing...today was a great day for a ride. Gio ('00 V11S)

I can't recall the first instance of VL. I know it wasn't in the first two months / 6000km as I rode from BC to California and back without incident (March 2001) so I'm guessing it was within the first 6 months. Hot days or underground parking lots (lack of ventilative cooling?) at first (perhaps 3 or 4 times) which seemed to get worse with time, not better. The last series of road-side waits (after the air-box mods, mileage ~34,000km) became almost predictable and convinced me it was time to do something about the problem. Gio

Hi, From the initial description given this sounds very much like vapour lock to me. I have experienced this problem in a variety of climate conditions - originally only during hot (~25 to 30c) days but after the airbox mods (snorkels removed, lid drilled) at much cooler (5 to 10c) conditions (even in the rain). The problem only occurs after a relatively short stop (during which it is theorised that heat soak occurs). Here is a summary of my expts. I used a fixed route and measurement intervals/points to compare results (only a few of which I posted) 1. 706.002 map (mistral cans, stock x-over) 2. V11TomH map (much richer - ran a little cooler but still VL) 3. Added insulation to pump and pimary line - still VL (4. moved temp sensor - no effect) 5. Re-located pump above spine, re-routed primary line under airbox to feed pump from the right side and filter out front - No VL observed since. Personally I think the primary culprit is the stock location of the pump. I now have a manual petcock ready to install and so may re-route the primary fuel line as stock (ie from the left) to see if this makes any difference. Filter needs to stay out front (or elsewhere) if you wish to retain the airbox body (as I did). Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any further details. Gio (2000 V11S)

I reckon on ~2.5 litres without a filter change, and ~3.0 with. Gio