Gio

Remove them - ship to me, and I'll send you a pair of stock MG (with almost no miles on them) ... in return! It's a semi-serious question ... always liked the Staintunes. Say hi to Gord - as you may know - he's a fellow greenie - has two of them now I believe) Cheers!

Go for it BigBlock ... I'm biased (for obvious reasons) but believe the greenies will become most collectable. 60 K is barely broken in! Those cans look interesting - definitely not stock ... any idea what make? The Teckno bags work well - but custom hard bags sound interesting. I'd pitch it closer to $4,500 based on your description ... but for a knowledgeable (and honest) evaluation - give Gord in Chilliwack (motorocycles - formerly Valley Yamaha) a call and tell I sent you ... that's where I purchased my greenie) Gio

Thanks docc ... good to be back in the saddle so to speak. So ... lot's of miles (km) to make up for lost time ... indeed!

Just fitted the final replacement parts following accident damage earlier this year ... a replacement screen for the Magni, and a pair of Vitaloni Californian mirrors. Gustafsson now offer a taller (10") "sport-touring" version of the screen for the Magni fairing (the standard one is ~ 6") so I thought I would give that a try. I was hoping that fitment would be straightforward (as I already had the standard Gustafsson fiited) - but the taller screen required some outward bending of the fairing frame plates (the ones the mirrors bolt through) ... otherwise ok. It's also a little longer than the standard screen - extending an inch or so further than the standard - so I may trim the back corners accordingly. The result is a much better screen - particularly if used with a tank bag ... more room to get under and actually view through. I was also surprised at how much more of that magnificent intake noise now reaches the ears! Recommended. Not so much the Californian mirrors. They look great - and had a bolt spacing of 65mm (close enough to the 63 mm of the originals, so just a small amount of drilling / filing) but frankly useless at speed - too much vibrational distortion.

Having trouble finding a replacement - originals were from Vitaloni ... purchased one replacement from Europa (UK) a few years ago - but advised that they are now discontinued. Glass is ~ 4 inches round and ~ 8 inches long overall. Mounting bolts are 63 mm on centre - and this is the main problem in finding some replacements ... most are 50 mm or less. From what I have found - these were also original equipment on Ducati 750 F1, otherwise no luck. Edit - I think I may have found some that will work - Vitaloni California's (e-bay), bolt spacing is 65mm (close enough)

Thanks docc ... everything seems to work (including the knee) and whilst the first few km were a little tentative, it wasn't long before we were back in the groove. New Angel GT's still not scrubbed in ... but they seem to be working really well. And we passed safety inspection so are officially road-legal. Life is much better after a ride! Thanks again to all those that helped me with parts, advice and supportive words. Cheers!

Cleaned up the oil switch contact but still variable (shorting the pin = always bright) so must be the switch that's iffy. Charge light still not working - but batt is charging ok (12v @ t/o to ~ 14.3 v @ 3k) Just about to go for a maiden post-repair ride (10 weeks since the crash) and will confess to feeling a little nervous ...

OK - thanks guys - shorting that male pin does indeed fire the charge lamp Roy. But the lamp still doesn't come on when Ign is switched (but engine not running) - then again experience tells me the charge lamp operates in a parallel universe and so am not overly concerned. I'll check contact at the oil switch next to see if things can be brightened up a little ... there is much grime in that area so I suspect this may well be the reason. At least I have oil and neutral lamps working again - progress, not perfection - right?

OK - tank off today ... and found the missing neutral lamp in the process (must have dropped down there whilst trying to re-fit)! Checked the 12-way connector (seemed ok) and then put the neutral lamp back in - voila ... it works again. The oil lamp still works (although less bright than when neutral wasn't working?) ... and so now I just need to get the charge lamp to come on. Roy - just to make sure I understand the test you gave above ... if I ground the male pin of the two-way connector from chassis (blue wire) this should fire the charge lamp - correct? This on the same side of the connector where the 12v supply to tach etc would be on the female side (red/black) as checked previously.

Quick couple of updates ... haven't had much spare time recently, but did take the dash apart today ... nothing obviously wrong in there, but interestingly - the oil warning lamp is now working again. I also removed and checked the neutral lamp - seemed to be intact and measured ~ 15 ohms. But then I lost the little bugger ... one of those days! Edit - so now just chasing the neutral and charge lamps - looking at Roy's diagram again and see that the 12-way AMP (instrument panel, #8) carries all those signals and thinking this may have become partially disconnected ... hence the oil lamp re-appearing whilst taking the dash apart ..?

Glad you found the problem Goosed. Not sure if I would replace with the same items (as likely same will happen again) - others have gone alternate routes (LED?) ... I just do without them.

+1 on the lamps on speedo or tach being the likely culprit ... notoriously dodgy and did away with 'em many years ago.

Thanks docc ... exactly how I recall them when working!

Hey Roy ... always comforting to hear from you. I still haven't had chance to delve in (up to my ass in Haskap harvest) ... but to answer your question - yes tach is working. With Ign on, but engine not running, I measured 9.8v on the x2 red male and 12v on the single green/red female (bullet connector). I'm rushing so not sure if I'm measuring in the right place here ..? Stew - first thing that came to my mind also (often have to wiggle the connector on the gear-box to get the neutral light to work, but not this time). Will hopefully get a chance to make some more measurements later this evening Update : Having studied the wiring diagram more closely, and read your instructions again - I realised I was measuring at the wrong place. In my case there is also a double connector with a black (male) and white (female) wires coming from the reg/rec. The female side to the black is red/black and this has 11.4v with Ign on, but engine not running. The male side to the white is blue and also has 11.4v. If I'm understanding correctly, that red/black is the 12v feed to the tach/fuel/oil and gen lights (so this looks ok) I'll open up the dash panel tomorrow and see what's going on in there?

Quite possibly Scud ... but it would mean it took 3 of them out (oil / neutral and charge) - but no, have not yet opened up the dash to verify - hoping to get to that later today. An oil pressure gauge would be nice ... but a working oil light has been sufficient to date. Famous last words anyone ...

Hello comrades, Following the recent accident - repairs are progressing, and injuries healing. The good news is that the bike starts / runs just fine, and with the exception of a replacement screen for the magni all the parts have come together. But there is one curious electrical glitch with the idiot lights - no neutral indicator (already checked the connector down below) oil pressure or charge light indicator. Hi-beam and turn-signal indicators working ok (fuse 7 was blown after the left indicator got scraped away - but replaced that). All main electrical functions seem to be working : headlight - both hi/lo, horn, indicators, tail light, brake light. Even the sidestand switch still works - despite the fact that the part that actually activates the switch got ground away in the slide! So I'm thinking there must be a problem inside the warning light module - kiwi roys diagram tells me that the feed for the warning lights comes from the headlight relay - but so does the headlight / horn / brake light and these all work. Perhaps a ground wire came loose in all that mayhem? It's also strange not to recall with certainty which warning light is in which position (when they are not working) ... memory tells me neutral is top right and charge next to the bottom or next to it and oil pressure below the indicator - ie from top to bottom along that middle row of four it would be ind / oil / charge / fuel ... could someone confirm my memory? If anyone has any other ideas about what the problem indicator lights have in common I would be eager to know - planning on opening up the dash later today to have a poke around inside. The only one I really would like to fix would be the oil pressure ... although it would be nice to get the neutral indicator back to life. Cheers, Gio

Docc ... caution - that one is for those who dare to question a) little ball-peen's existence and his/her right to live in the tool chest with the other hammers.

Interesting ... it's been over 5 weeks since I was taken out, and whilst I can now walk (and therefore ride) again ... my left knee is still painfull and am unable to kneel down (something an organic farmer needs to do a lot of) ... so you have me thinking. Thanks - and glad that worked out for you.

A little late to the party on this thread ... I bought my UK spec '94 K75s in 2006 with around 60k miles, and brought it back to Canada at the end of 2014. I have about 65k miles on it now. The bike was stored for long periods between trips to the UK - but always started first on second time ... amazing! I have the factory hard bags (which hold an amazing amount of stuff) and the only modification made was to install a factory low-seat option as my in-seam is not the longest. At first my feeling was that it could use a 6th gear, but now realise that the motor is quite happy at higher revs (the 750 is counter-balanced) and acceleration is very impressive. Some have described the exhaust note as bland - but to my ear there is a most pleasant back-burble on deceleration. The motor has an almost electric / linear feel to it and fuel economy is awesome (~50 mpg). Servicing the splines is a bit of a pain - but must be done as it's a "dry" shaft system (ie not oil bathed, but grease only) - otherwise servicing is easy to do. Front brakes are not the strongest and would benefit from careful pad selection and braided lines. There's even radial tires available that fit! The bikes are very long-lived and parts (new or used) readily available ... I have had nothing but good service from motorworks in the UK for example. Another resource I would recommend would be the motobrick forum ... lots of fellow enthusiasts and a great resource ... much as this site is for the V11. Personally I think it would be hard to find a more reliable, or even suitable touring mount given the relatively low cost of entry. Highly recommended.

I didn't know we had a brick thread ... I'll checking that out! The '94 K75s is one of my all-time favourite bikes (had it for 10 years now).

JC - we are all entitled to our opinions, and you obviously have yours with regard to the value of the evap system in question - nothing wrong with that sir. But just to clarify, there is no heater in the tank in my case as the fuel pump is external. A far bigger issue with the fuel system in the early days was with "vapour lock" and we (myself and others) did quite a bit of work figuring out solutions for that ... in my case relocating the fuel pump from it's original location between the cylinders (not a good place!) and mounted it on the top of the spine (where the fuel filter was) and re-located the fuel filter. This and some strategic heat shielding of the fuel lines fixed those problems. A search should find some of those early threads if interested. Wishing you luck with the re-build ... as Scud says - these are awesome bikes once fettled and most satisfying to achieve that yourself. Cheers!

Hey jc ... I have all that two sausage stuff ... from the same external fuel pump set-up. Pulled it all off my 2000 when I took delivery and has been in a box since then. As others have said ... all very un-needed, but you can have it for cost of shipping if you really want to re-install ..? I suspect the smell of gas you report may be coming from another source ... eg loose fuel line connection, petcock etc Be carefull what you wish for! Gio

Hey LowRyter ... thanks for the info. Everyone here on the forum has been very supportive - I have had more than generous offers of help from yourself, scud, czakky (in particular - wouldn't even take anything for shipping so I made I donation to the forum in lieu) and kmac has some panniers ...all very uplifting given that my insurance claim just went down the tubes ... sometimes life sucks, but then we are reminded that there are good people out there! What goes around , comes around ... and that is indeed the way things should be. Thanks again for the support.

Hi Kevin PM sent.

Thanks for the thoughts JRD ... have not heard from Jet, but know it is a bad deal up there - events like this make the world a much smaller place. My heart goes out to my fellow Canadians who have lost everything, but is comforting to know that there are others that care. Thank-you again for your thoughts.