Gio

Thanks man - much appreciated.

For 2000 V11 Sport Thanks again to all that helped me out with other parts also.

A big thanks to all of you for some great support and ideas for replacement parts. Looks like czakky has an engine guard and right rear indicator (pm's exchanged). Scud - I may not need that lever as mine has not actually broken - but some damage to the pivot point - I need to take a closer look to see if I can repair. Neil - likewise I hope you too are feeling better. I also broke the tip of my right index finger (an old recurring injury) which sucks as it's my mouse finger - at least a good excuse not to finish my tax return ..! Actually the stock footrests do fold ... just not in the direction this one was asked to. Again - thanks for all supportive words and ideas. Gio

Hey thanks czakky ... much appreciated! I need left front turn signal / head guard / mirror / foot peg ... PM me with details and more than happy to pay shipping+ ... Good man! Doesn't feel so much right now ... but it's all good. Gio

Hello comrades, Yesterday was a bad day for me and the old V11. Got cut-off at a round-about and went down hard. Bashed up knee / elbow / shoulder and as much damage to my trusty steed - will need new mirror, indicator, clutch lever, foot-peg, engine guard and Tekno pannier for the left side of the bike - at least that saved my Mistral ! If anyone has any of these items available - please let me know. I need to get back on the horse asap ... ride safe, shit happens! Gio

Loved the Diablo stradas - alas no longer available here. 18k ! You got your $ worth out of those victor !!

Now have a few km on the new tires, not even scrubbed in yet but already feel so much better than the Metzelers ... Feels good to be back on Pirelli's again!

cash ... photo?

Dear Dr Roy It's all good news - thanks primarily for all of your help! Here's what I did this afternoon : 1) R1 / 30 has 12v (as expected) 2) connectivity between R1/87a and R2/30 is zero ohms 3) with RL # 1 installed but IGN off I got 12v @ RL2 / 30 ... this surprised me ...? Should this be the case? 4) a wire on RL2 / 87 gave 12v ... but needed to jiggle RL #1 to get this (big clue) and also 2 of the 4 pins of the 4-way HL connector 5) re-connecting the 4-way HL connector dropped this voltage to zero 6) so I swapped RL #1 for a spare 7) when HL connector re-connected - still 12v on R2/87 and headlight now on (+ brake light / horn / 12v to to reg etc) 8) final check was to make sure batt was charging - 12v to reg (unlike before) and 14.1 v @ 2K RPM ... BRILLIANT! So my conclusion is that, despite the indications being the headlight RL2 was at fault, it was in fact RL1 not delivering the juice to RL2 - just as you had speculated. Thank-you again Roy - you da man! Please advise how I might return the favour? Cheers, very much! Gio

Customary good info Roy ... I will work through your new suggestions tomorrow (getting late here on the east coast and not good light in the barn!) and report back. I am also comforted with an option to power the faulty circuit from another source as, yes - I really need to go riding ... just looking at the freshly mounted Angel GT's (plus new wheel bearings front and back) insurance ticking away, double digit temperatures etc etc ... enough to drive one insane! Cheers!

Guru Roy is helping me on this one ... but wanting to keep the thread going in case it is of help to others in the future ... should probably be re-named something like "bike starts, but no headlight/horn/brake/warning lights and not charging" Update - solid 12v @ top of headlight relay #2 (connector removed from base to be sure) but this drops to 0v when jumpered across to second blade (ie the one that provides 12v to headlight/horn/brake light etc) ... so something is pulling this down. Tried disconnecting the 4-way connector to headlight ... still no 12v at second blade.

Thanks Roy - and yes, to confirm I have no headlight, brake light, horn or warning lights (ie all the things your diagram indicate are fed by that circuit) as well as no 12v to reg from the same circuit as just determined. I will check the base of RL2 - but it looked ok when I tried the jumper. I'm not familiar with the 4-way connector in the headlight (never had occaision to work in that area) but will check it - your thinking is that it may be loose I'm guessing? An email would be much appreciated ... I have been trying to work from the one in the factory manual - which looks like it is from a 3rd or 4th photocopy with a mixture of French/German/English ... not helpful! Sending you a PM now. Thanks again Edit - PM bounced back saying you unable to receive new messages ..?

So I think we are making some progress : Tried replacing 30A fuse with a 25A - same result. Cleaned up 30A / socket and replaced. 1) single m/fm bullet connector ... female side has a red/green wire from 30A (and has 12v which goes to 0 when 30A fuse pulled) and the male side has two red wires towards the reg. 2) double "auto" connector has red/black female from loom to black male to reg - NO VOLTAGE on female side ... this is presumably the one you refer to that taps into headlight circuit So it would appear that this is my problem ..?

Lord Roy ... good to hear from you mate. Yes - all seems to be good at the socket of headlight relay #2 - top connector having 12v from the starter relay - but jumping that across to the second connector down does not fire the headlight etc. The 30A fuse shows typical signs of over-heating but tests out ok - will replace anyway as recommended. Will dive right into that regulator connector next and report what I find ...

Hey Docc ... I see what you're saying (and yes it's a 5-pin starter relay) but I have 12v at the top blade socket @ relay2 so that part of the circuit looks ok (bike also starts and runs fine - except for lack of charging) I did jumper the main blades on relay2 last night - to no avail. So I'm thinking the problem must be somewhere between the second blade on relay 2 (which feeds headlight etc) and the regulator (which as Roy says must have 12v to function) ... maybe my regulator crapped out and is pulling that part of the circuit down ?? How to test that?

If I'm understanding Roy's diagram correctly a jumper between the top two contacts of relay#2 (the top having 12v) should provide voltage for headlight/horn/brakelight etc as well as the regulator ... hopefully I won't fry anything by doing this - please stop me if this is not a good idea!

So - electricality is not one of my fortes ... here's what I have concluded so far : 1. Battery seems good (enough) based on it's ability to a) take a charge and start the engine 2. I have no headlight, horn or brake light 3. Bike does not seem to be charging the battery - based on no increase in voltage when running ... 4. The 30A fuse shows typical over-heating - but is still intact Guru Roy's comment on his wiring diagram "the regulator must have 12 volts from headlight relay and ground to operate" is calling to me ... How can I test this? I have "12V" at the top and bottom right of Headlight relay #2 base (as viewed from standing at left side of bike with relay pulled) ... which base contacts should I jump to rule out the relay itself (already tried swapping the relay) ? What measurements can I make at the reg/rec to rule out some problem there? Thanks in advance comrades ... new tires, insurance and warmer weather ... this is driving me nuts. Gio

Thanks for all replies ... The age of the battery did cross my mind (8 years) - about what I got out of the first one. But was charged to ~ 12.5 before first starting and there was more than enough current to start the motor and twice since then - but voltage has dropped indicating not charging. I have had on charge overnight and will re-check this morning. Surely if there is enough juice to start the motor the headlight should come on prior to starting ?? Roy - yes, relay 2 is a 5 pin, but only 4 connections at the base. I did swap with a spare and also for the one next to it (#3) with same results. Update - after charging overnight, battery was at 13.1 V (Ign off) and 12.5V (Ign on) so did take a charge, but problems still there.

Thanks Antiquar .. agreed that batt voltage is low (just coming out of hibernation - but starts ok) .., but failure to get 13+ V whilst running is worrying ... never seen that before. The 30A fuse looks OK. What I'm trying to figure out is the connection with loss of headlight / horn / brake light ..?. If my voltage regulator crapped out would this explain things?

OK - with Ign off I have 12.1 at the batt and with Ign on this drops to 11.7 Viewing relay # 2 base from above with Ign on I have 11.7 at top and 11.4 at bottom right With engine running at tick-over I have 11.4 at the batt ... but this does not increase with rpm as expected ..?

So - my new Angel GT's are ready to go, bike fired up and runs great after a long winter sleep ... but I noticed several electrical problems (none of which were there last year) : No headlight, horn or brake light ... only turn signals. All fuses ok. Referencing Kiwi-Roys diagram for the early V11 (I could not find the original - but he re-posted recently) ... the missing items seem to have relay #2 in common so I swapped that out for a spare, same result. So am now wondering if some critters may have been chewing wires over the winter ... any insight or suggestions of where to test before of after relay #2 would be much appreciated. Gio

Yes - although OP was asking about the rear wheel bearings and my understand is these are both 6204-2RS (20x47x14) ... the 6205 and 6304 are the differently sized bearings for the front wheel. All bearings now ordered - thanks again for the help.

I found another reference (gizmology.net) which confirm Tom's numbers : 6204-2RS (rear) confirmed as 20x47x14 6205-2RS (front1) confirmed as 25x52x15 Both the above listed as "light" duty 6304-2RS (front2) confirmed as 20x52x15 listed as "medium" duty (all numbers are bore/OD/thickness in mm) I could not find any listings without the 6 ... but got 40/50k km out of the ones that did so perhaps that is as good as we might expect ??)

Good to know gstallons - the local shop should be getting back to me today with some options so will ask about this - thanks

Also - MG part # I got from Stein Dinse site for the rear (92204220) checked with the dealer in Moncton as a 47x14x20 , and they also told me the front uses 25x52x15 on one side and 20x52x15 on the other (not sure which is which) ... but no standard bearing codes ..?