Gio

Hi Roy, Just checked my invoices for work done at our mutual friends at Valley Yamaha (in 2005 ... where do the years go?) Front lists a Koyo 6205-2RS and NTN 6304-LLB ... so these #'s seem consistent with Toms Rear lists Koyo 6204-2RS (also consistent except for the "H") SP838 ... can you confirm bearing spec you used for the rear was 6205 ..?

Thanks guys - very much appreciated! Cheers!

Hi Phil - yes went through the whole spacer length thing a few years ago. My problem is the local shop is looking for a confirmation of the bearing size (the only information I was able to find was the MG part # (92204220) - last time I had bearings installed was at a MG dealership ... I read elsewhere that the bearings are of a standard size ... just can't seem to find out what that size is?

Just removed rear wheel to take in to the shop for new tire, and did the usual spin on the axle check for bearing smoothness ... right (drive) side feels a little notchy with some play - so reckon I'll need a new wheel bearing on that side (the other side feels ok). In searching around I could not find the standard size / spec (other than the 6205-2RS posted above) - are both rear wheel bearings the same size? If someone has rear wheel bearing specs handy it would be much appreciated. I think they were replaced with standard MG (SKF?) bearings last time.

footgoose - my understanding is that the eliminator kits replace the air box lid - so to go back to a lid you might need to remove the filter clamp kit? In my own case, I drilled the hell out the stock air box lid, cut off the snorkels and run with a K&N filter.

I'm not really sure Doc - the Pirelli site also just says "2-ply carcass for improved stability" for the A-spec ... but the higher load index would presumably require increased "stiffness" in the construction (and possibly weight) I would think. The Pirelli tire guide recommends the A-spec (58W) 120/70/17 for '99 / '01 V11 ... then again it specs the regular 170/60/17 when many of us (myself included) feel that 160/60 is a more appropriate size for the 4.5" rear rim on the earlier models. Strange that there is no "A" spec for these rear sizes (there are for some others) ... given a choice I think I would prefer a stiffer rear tire for our rear-biased bikes, than a front, so am thinking I'll just go with the standard front - there isn't that much relative difference in the load rating (less than 10%)

Just about to order a set of Angel GT's - and see that my preferred supplier (Canada Motorcycle) offer the front 120/70/17 in both regular (?) and what is referred to as "A" spec (for a few more $). The only information on the site about this A spec is that it is a "2 layer structure for better stability". No A spec option for any of the rear sizes (160/60/17 in my case) Anyone have any additional insight into this A spec option? Gio PS - The only other info I found was the "D" spec front which OEM for the Ducati Multistrada Edit - I just noticed on the Pirelli site the load indices differ between the regular (55W) and "A" spec (58W) front options ie A spec has a higher rating (520 vs 481 lbs) ...

I fitted a 75mm Hyperpro (# DS-075RA) to the Sport in 2007 and have had no issues. Not sure if this would be same size on the Tenni. At the time Hyperpro listed the SDK-MG-101RA (for V11 Sport '99 onwards) but this did not fit so was replaced with the one I have.

Good man Scud ... in fact we may soon change your name to Spud in recognition of enthusiasm for fellow Guzzisti (noise in background from Docc ... apparently that admonification already taken, or at least aspired to) ... great collaboration on this site, always has been.

+1. Dropping the pan every 10k is what I do also (oil change only every 5k in-between) ... Gio

Orson - awesome pics and write-up ... thanks. I visited the Manx a few years back on a borrowed FJ-1200 as part of a visit back to the old country. One fork seal was blown, but I (think) I managed a 70 mph average on open roads - which I was quite pleased with - this also gave me a better appreciation of what it takes to do an average of 130 mph + around the mountain course! Your story took me back there. Gio

Au contraire my friend ... once things become horizontal ... all bets are on! As proof of this ask anyone who has woken up with less than one eyebrow. Cheers - and may the air flow faster (or at least with less flatulence) in your snorkels!

Docc - my understanding is that Bernoulli's theorem is based on experiments with horizontal piping ...alas, may I suggest ingestion of the contents of your form-makers in vertical mode, at least initially ...

Docc - please do not use that 1" bit on the air-box ... Geese are allergic to anything imperial - please find something marked mm ... (eg 27 x 10 mm holes should do the trick ... mmm)

Early red-framed greenies are (imho) soon to become very collectable ... Roy, give your head a shake man! Or at least promise to stay connected - we need you! I agree with LowRyter ... these bikes are works of art! Gio

I stuck with stock air-box, drilled the hell out of the lid, added a K&N and ditched the snorkels ... no empirical data on how much better the flow is (or not?) but seems to work well with the power commander map (mistral / open air-box? - I forget) ... intake sound is most pleasant when on the boil. Gio

I would recommend the cold and level method - this has always worked for me. Alternatives - although viable, introduce variability (how warm is warm, how consistently not level ... etc) Gravity is your friend in this matter!

I hang broken veglias on strings in an attempt to scare European birds off my berries ... a twist on the old "moles on barbed wire" from the old country ... Gio

Docc - just twist right hand a little further towards you ... the offset will magically disappear and your life will become balanced again!

Lots of similar on mine also - but just on left side - probably from base gasket but I don't worry about it. Doesn't take much of a weep to make things look dirty. If it were dripping I'd be more concerned. Yes re re-torque of the heads as part of the valve job. Gio

I wouldn't consider this high mileage (56.8 or just over 90 km) ... but would want those known items fixed. Gio

+1 on 160/60 for a 4.5" rear rim ...

I hear you ... but FI has it's advantages (just like that new-fangled water-cooling thing) ...! The PC sits between the connector and ECU and essentially modifies the stock map - so don't forget to re-connect the main connector to the ECU (leaving the PC isolated) ... do this with the IGN switched off. It may be that your PC was mapped to optimise for modifications (eg different exhaust system, air-box mods etc) and so factory config may not be ideal if so, but you shouldn't get the drop-out that you describe if the ECU is working normally.

I was about to suggest the same thing - simply un-plug the PC and go back to factory config ... bear in mind it will be different, but may indicate if your problem is with the PC (or not) ..?

OK - I'll get the balling rolling a little further ... Serial # xxxxxxxxxxx112850 first registered in June 2000 Gio