Gio

Similar lines to the Magni - which uses a pair of brackets on the valve covers, plus the fairing stay to the steering head. Looks nice! Gio

Thanks LowRyter - I looked into getting some moly additive but the shipping costs into Canada are very high ... have now found a local dealer who can bring in the Motul with moly stuff quite reasonably.

Scud - Pete may chime in to confirm, but I suspect they only use shaved pouches for export - keeping the hairiest ones for themselves. And in an attempt to get the thread back on track, Zooter - a quick blast with a torch sounds like a good method of getting rid of the plastic - just make sure it's done quickly and evenly otherwise you may risk some heat-distortion of the plate? Gio

No docc. It simply means that you have been mixing too much vodka with the SPH ... and that is a very slippery slope. The good news is that you are highly unlikely to suffer a seizure ...

Interesting docc ... like you (and many others) am a total convert for SPH in the tranny (and co-incidentally ordered some lightweight 75/140 for the BMW trans today) - but have always preferred that traditional "80/90 dino with moly" feel for the back-end ... no reason to doubt equi (or better) effectiveness, just a choice. Hey - it's an oil and so ignites more than rational thought or decision, right? Good info re the Motul - if it's the same stuff I'll be happy!

They call it candyfloss in the UK ... which is evidence that it was made in close proximity to a fairground methinks. Usually pink in colour, and very sweet.

Just tried to order some of the MG final drive 80/90 with moly and was told by the dealer that this has been discontinued - MG now recommending Motul 80/90 with moly - anyone know how this stacks up against the good old stuff , moly content or otherwise? Always happy with the old stuff and was planning on using in the final drive of the BMW until realising I was out of it. Adding moly to your favourite oil is also an option of course but becomes an expensive option with shipping to Canada. I checked Motul data sheet but all it says is "moly re-inforced for "noisy" transmissions" (... how would they know that ???) Gio

I think 5k miles is too long an interval. I change mine (regular dino) every 5000 km (3k miles) with filter change every other oil change (10,000 km). Gio

I was at the Classic bike show in Stafford last October and bought a "Stay calm - they all do that sir " T-shirt from one of those neds ... think I'll send it back! What goes around, comes around my friend. Gio

Agreed - our clime can be a little cooler than yours docc, so have used mixture of 10/40 (which the old kawi used) to 20/50 Castrol (aka "15/45") depending.

Pete - I hear you man. Priveleged to have purchased mine from you directly ... and that's also from an ex-Pommy! Cheers Gio

Agreed docc - OP's thread has been hijacked enough already! LowRyter - my suggestion was a possible place where your "leak" might be from ... I'm trying to avoid the oil volume question as we don't know what that is in your case or how it compares to others - suffice to say an over-filled engine would certainly tend to get rid of it's oil from such a place, if there was a leak. Maybe start a new thread on your oil leak and see if we can help you find it? Just to keep things interesting, if you start a new thread on this - I'll place a friendly wager of 3.8 l of Castrol 15/45 dino (excl shipping) that the leaking oil is coming from the breather pipe ... fair enough? Gio (Moderator EDIT: LowRyter's Oil Leak thread)

I still suspect some aspect of crankcase breather - which would explain why oil "finds the right level" if there is a leak ..? Oil volume would be good to know (may have suggested that already A clean-up and some talcum powder may help to locate the source ..? Gio

Rhino ...what can I say ... the miles take their toll at some point ... mf - I also had a weld let go (right side upper/front) a couple of years ago - own fault due to over-loading ... but had a buddy weld up for me. I really like the Tekno bags - particularly the system that clips/locks the bags to the bracket. Zips need an occaisional pinch with pliers to keep them closing. Gio

Nice shots Ken - looks like the bracket for the LM is different than the Sport at the exhaust / footpeg bracket. Yours is way cleaner too! Now I need to paint mine, and wash the bike etc etc ... thanks! Gio

No instructions (sorry) but here's a pic of left side on my V11S (same as LM as far as I know) that may help out ..? Not shown is the mounting on the underside of rear fender. Gio

Fear not bretheren of the dark side ... come - join us on the light side, for we knoweth our oil volume, of ways to better contain it's slipperiness and also to compare with other fellows the correctness of it's presence using simple gravity. Indeed we are most comforted by knowing that the red light of evil no longer knocks at our door ... leaving us time to worry of other things ... Anon.

and now with pic attached ...

Here's a pic of the modified dipstick I refer to earlier (per PM request). With Roper plate fitted, bike level and dipstick screwed in, 3.8 l gives a level between H and H2 with no evidence of any over-fill. Resting my case now. Gio

The breather hose might be worth looking at - I had to replace mine a few years back (there is a post that gives good info on how to make a new one). Sounds like the PO was on the ball and would have no reason to question your confidence in that. But I think the key point I'm trying to make is that the stock dipstick measures ~12mm low (and have wondered if the idea might be to account for the threads on the stick - ie no need to thread all the way in to take a reading ..?) ... anyway, if I were you at the next oil/filter change I would fill with say 3.5l and find a way to keep the bike level (perhaps some blocks under the side-stand just the right side of balance point) and see where that came to on your dipstick ..? At least this would give you a reference point and hopefully validate the PO's mark. If (as I suspect is the case) you find that your stick is also reading low, then filling to any mark is not over-filling, but compensating for the dipstick marks.

I think we have hijacked the original posters thread enough already - so lest we stray into the minutae zone of the whole oil level thing - may I suggest a level calibration of the dipstick (enough said about that) and then translate that into your preferred side-stand location - as long as you are consistent and have a reference point, then you "should" be ok. Personally I agree with Guzzimoto and prefer level. Because it's level. Are you sure of the PO's mark ..?

Caution Guzzimoto - you may be entering the minutae zone ..! +1 re vertical is right - I use a paddock stand at the rear. Gio

Camn - in response to your mountain question - I would still say yes to a plate. The pick-up design is such that hard acceleration will "slosh" oil to the rear - and whilst that would be worsened by accelerating up-hill, even on level ground - and particularly with an oil volume closer to 3 l than 4 - could be a problem (for those of us that care - the majority I would think). Glad to read that you are running closer to 4l - that may be the difference in you not seeing the oil light - I don't know. I do know that the plate is relatively in-expensive (compared to the potential cost of oil starvation at least) and not that difficult to install. I'm getting close to the 100,000 km mark now and stopped worrying about this a long time ago. Gio PS - I have no affiliation re the plate - it just makes sense and there seems to be good evidence from others that it works

Fellow Greenie (original and best - anything to diffuse an oil thread methinks?) ... Oil should be checked with the bike upright and level. Gio

Firstly - I offer profuse apologies to those who may find attention to oil level and it's accurate measurement to be less than important on an air/oil cooled motor ... To clarify earlier comment, based on measurements made during installation of the plate, I (and others - Ryland I think?) concluded that the stock dipstick H mark was reading 12mm low with 3.5 l , so after fitting the plate (which added additional capacity) I made an additional mark "H2" and found that 3.78 l gave a level somewhere between the original H and H2. So I now use the stock H mark as my "low" and H2 as my "high" with a typical refill of ~ 3.7l after over-night draining + filter change. In US Qts I think that's about 3.7 also? So I think most of the increase in volume was from the low-measuring stick correction. This also correlated with early oil changes at the dealer where typically 3l was used (as measured by the stock stick). I attach a couple of pics which show the dipstick relative to the plate - the new level was measured with a dowel as ~2mm above H and ~13mm below the plate. I ride the bike hard (ie maximum slosh to the rear), have never seen the oil light come on or any evidence of over-fill. Gio