savagehenry

And I will guarantee you, it only sets in deeper as you put on more miles...you just keep finding things as you ride more that only makes you smile in your helmet more...and then you roll on that throttle, more!! Ah, mi amore!!!

Hate to do this, given your post, but look at the classifieds. The spokes are there... now... ...and your bike only furthers my statement about just how truly breath taking our model is.

And the other v11's from that site are pretty damn cool too! Stock, or as a beginning canvas from which to create... God, we have excellent taste in rides, better than others, really.

I would definately consider one of the Ohlins equipped models like the Cafe Sport, Coppa Italia, Rosso and Nero Corsa or Scura. I believe the Tenni's a mechanically standard Le Mans with the paint job and seat being it's distinguishing factor as a special package. Everyone is different, but I cannot properly convey just how much I love my Nero...Happy Hunting, S.H.

For ease in starting, and increased torque exactly where you use it on the road, set your valves on the looser side. Try intakes at .008" and exhausts at .010". The manuals valve specs are not the best settings in real world applications, like traffic. It's one simple adjustment that can make a noticable difference as soon as you hit the road.......Good Luck,S.H.

And there is much truth in the old saying, "It's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than it is to ride a fast bike slow."

When you read the excellent thread Raz noted, you'll get the gist. I personally don't feel it's nessecary. My bike had 5,000 miles from new when I bought it. At 6k, I did tires. My most excellent bike guy said he would check the cush drive while at it. Low and behold, the pucks were DRY. I cannot overstate what a difference in the driveline lash that was softened as a result of this simple maintenence detail. ...and yeah, this place is the shit, period.

I was thinking about that exact same move/problem. Then I read in the newest "Motorcyclist" that the Tuono gets down in the 20's for mpg if you are flagrant with the throttle. I get 35ish all the time with my Nero, with all my motor mods, and NO attempt at maximizing mileage. My conundrum was quickly solved. Your choice may not be as clear cut. That Tuono sure looks like a damn sweet ride...

Hi Nigev11, I posted the same torque question awhile back. Got the answer here in about 10 minutes. This is a great site for this type of problem, and is exactly why I try to buy Jaap a few beers a year through a contribution to this site at least once a year. The higher torque is correct. Don't forget to grease the problematic front driveshaft zerkes. And clean and lube that cush drive while the rear wheel is off. I couldn't believe the difference it made, even without my pucks being drilled. Good luck, S.H.

SSSSHHHHHH!!!! If "IT" hears you it will transfORM into it's Robot Form and crush us!!!

My bike almost always needs a little throttle roll to fire. It seems to be fairly common here. I don't remember the exact name, but there was a thread on this not too long ago. S.H.

A sentiment worth toasting, Brother Especially for those of us who love to ride WHILE the games are on because the roads will be clear for a few hours on the weekends. Just DO NOT be far from home when the bars/game are letting out all those "happy" fans!

Push, push, pull. Push hose towards elbows, push gray collar in opposite direction, now pull hose.

My levers seem fine. Why are these better? I ask because I want...

Mario, I find the sentiment in these words provide some truly vivid imagery. Very well written, thank you, S.H.

If it were me, I would lube it lightly anywhere it makes contact with another edge or surface. Any moving part appreciates some way to reduce friction. One rule of lubes I use is "Moly grease if it slides in and out, No moly if it rolls"

I have never had a battery last 6 years, even when put on a trickle charger when dormant. Yours sounds like it is the original. Regardless of your readings,I would change that out just for general maintenence/good practice purposes, unless the cost is truly prohibitive for you. Good luck, S.H.

"4:20"- Quitting time of my workday and she almost makes me optimistic about my workday on the ride in too!

Hello 2or4strokes, Before you dissassemble the whole thing, maybe you could try just pulling the oil pan and upper sump. You can pull it all in about ten minutes, it's real easy to put back, and you can look right up into the crankcase. With the rear wheel off the ground and the bike in 6th gear, you can use the wheel to turn the motor over and have a look see. I bet a mirror on a stick and a flashlight will be good to have on hand. If you find nothing unusual, it only takes the two gaskets to put it back. Then, I hope you will be done...Good luck and check back with your results, S.H.

"...and it had won many rewards..." Yeah, back when that would have been considered a good looking chopper, 30 years ago! I LIKE choppers, but that THING made me something in a shade of Tenni green!

I do not know what a "CAN bus" is, could you enlighten me, please? And should I smack my forehead NOW cause it's so obvious , or AGAIN bow to the fact that there is ALWAYS more in life to be learned? Either way, Thanks. S.H.

I think you misspelled "cheap". It's properly spelled "Thrifty and self reliant"

My wife stopped riding as soon as we had our first child, so my rear seat cowl never comes off, and my passenger pegs are stuck in the UP position also. They used to work when I bought it a year and a half ago. Figures...These damn Moto Guzzi's ARE unreliable. Now I'm gonna have to go riding to forget that my bike doesn't work!!! ...I fixed 'em by IGNORING them, not even a cadidate for bodge pts. ...and good luck with yours, I'd try pulling the pivot pin and greasing it, if I gave a shit enough to try.

The radius created by the swingarm pins to the rear axle and the radius of the driveshaft's arc are differant. That requires the driveshaft to lengthen or shorten as the swingarm moves through it's range. If you stand on the left side, lean over the seat and bounce the bike up and down, you'll see a little movement. The pot holes around here cause my ring to be quite wide!!!

Hey all, Since this topic rears it's ugly head from time to time, I thought I would give a follow up, (and Cudos to you, GF) on my turn at finally tightening my floppy front balancer pipe. I used the method introduced by Greg Field as practiced at his shop. It has worked perfectly so far. I have ridden over 1,000 miles since the fix. It has included way over 50 complete heat up/cool down cycles, since I ride to work every day and haven't driven my truck in over three weeks. Throw in some errands and a couple rides for fun. The pipe remains completely solid, checked it about an hour ago. This is what I did. 1. Bought two new exhaust manifold gaskets and two new balancer pipe gaskets. Total cost was under $60.00, with the fancy "graphite matrix" cross over gaskets being $50 of that. 2.Pulled the balancer pipe and both exhaust pipes as one piece, separated at the rear cross over. Took them apart, cleaned up all mating surfaces. 3. Put my gaskets in place, assemble the pipes loosely, and hang the exhaust, again leaving everything finger tight only. 4.Put a ratcheting tie down around the left and right exhausts, at the front balancer pipe, and SNUG IT ONLY. Not too tight, just snug. Now tighten the clamps at the X over. 5. Now move to the heads, and back, tightening in steps and checking for binding as you go. It seems to be holding well, and was real easy to do with a few basic tools. The best part is it remains stock, and is the cheapest method I've seen suggested here in my research, short of simply dropping the balancer pipe altogether and capping off the two cross over exhaust flanges with a hose clamp and a piece of thin stock. S.H.