savagehenry

Also, wasn't the RM the single plate clutch and the steeper steering head angle and the 1" narrower rear wheel, and after '02 the front balancer pipe added along with the widend rear wheel and now(then?) standard two plate clutch? S.H. P.S. Just did 12 hrs. with the clip ons and stock seat, , just under 600 miles, NO PROBLEM...

Hey raceboy, I don't have any experience with the MG Ti set up, but I do have alot of mod's in line with what you're considering. There are some with the set up you are considering, and they will be here soon, no doubt. This is a great and helpful group/site.The biggest issue with the actual exhaust headers isn't so much which cross over will work, but that the '04's have that first cross over, in front of the alternator cover. The earlier bikes did not have this, and was added after'02(?) to address a percieved dip in the power curve at about 4000 rpm. This front cross over tends to loosen and then it is free to rattle around, and creates a exhaust leak. I am about to try solving this on mine as soon as I get the new gaskets. You could also look at "Guzzitech.com" to find headers made with no front cross over at all. There are several popular aftermarket cross overs for the one under the motor, and several threads concerning them. Some are said to improve either your mid range or top end power. Some prefer the Mistral, I think, because it allows the addition of an aftermarket center stand. There are many opinions, but there is also a central theme about them all. You will almost assuredly need some type of fuel control system, or a ECU remapping. The PowerCommander III seems to be the weapon of choice. I bought my bike already mod'ed, including the PC III, so I have never experienced the "power dip" many discuss here. Done properly, you will not be disappointed. After all, who amongst us has ever said,"It's got more power, I don't like it now" Spend enough time here in "search" mode and you will find many questions answered, and in some cases more questions now than when you first started... Good luck in your quest for POWER, S.H.

I thought, " Hmmmm, Maybe those FUGLY scoops will look really cool in real life..." when I saw the first pictures. Then I went to see it at the local Mega-Mart, LOUD, short on serious riding equipment, fully O.D.ed and jacked on yerself, WOW, look at sum of these prices! CROWDED emporium, pushing gymshoes, and colonges, and food, and the guy BITCHING LOUDLY that the details in his cartoon bike in the T- shirt his wife bought him weren't MODEL SPECIFIC,...oh, and we sell Harleys too, place. When I turned, and saw it, for the first time, (in the dark blue/black, which I really liked), I went ... ... It was, in a couple of words, "TOO WIDEISH" for my tastes. ...and yes, Red again F's UP most any bike. But you don't look at it when you ride it, and I bet I would LOVE IT. , Carry on, at a brisk pace, S.H. P.S. God, I LOVE my local shop...it SMELLS like a shop should, MOTORCYCLES...

...and grease the cush drive along with the rest of the list of items, all easy to do with the rear wheel and final drive removed, you will be very happy you knocked it all out at once! Have fun getting to know yer new honey on that "deeper level" S.H.

I had a similar experience last year. I really enjoyed riding the Griso, but was then certain that my V11 was the bike for me. And glad to hear you taught that damn sheep a lesson and lived to tell about it! He won't try THAT again in the future... To help you with your broken part, we've currently got an interesting thread on shifter levers, (and how to properly thump someone in a Mad Max style road battle!)...Good, no, better luck on the road, S.H.,

The first thing he did, just before loadin' em, was make sure they had no reason to breath. ...Ummmm, pork sammiches

Hey people, I know we've been there before, but I can't find the thread. Has there been a concensus on the "best " amount to raise the forks in the triple tree to sharpen the handling of the front end? Thanks, S.H.

Hi Orson, I was lookin' for member's thoughts on Teknic saddlebags, and this old post popped up in the top slot. I was immediately drawn to the fact that you were in Dubrovnik, riding. My Mom-in-Law was born and spent her younger life not too far away ("Remember WWII?" She LIVED it. I often count my blessings to live here!), and had always said it would be a great place to vacation, and the riding is some of the best. And the traveling mag, "Conde Naste" said the city was easily one of the best kept secrets in Europe, for the location and it's seaside allure, and the prices. Your thread also reminded me that I should buy Jaap a couple of beers via the little window on the right hand side of the homepage. This site is "the shit"... Quote:"Riding in southern Europe is a blast. Bikes rule. Police, more often than not, turn a blind eye. Best part is all the great roads & scenery." I find myself quite envious, and jealous, when I read this Quote:" Worst parts are, you get lost at least once a day. You learn to live with it. It's just part of the adventure." That sounds like a recipe for a perfect riding day to me... See ya around here, S.H.

Oh Man!!! What a great race, I CANNOT believe what those guys can do on those CRAZY fast bikes!!! I wish I had even a touch of the talent even the back of the field regularily demonstrates... I just kept yellin' "Holy Shit, I can't believe he saved that!!!" at the TV ....

Woody, How many miles, and what kind of weather do you ride in? Maybe dropping the shock will be good, and the "crud"/blockage will pop. A driveshaft is over $700.00, and I hear that front u-joint going dry is the main culprit in the shaft failure. And I have PERSONALLY been a witness to a lack of lubing on my cush drive with only 5500 miles on the odometer at 1st tire change (MAN, what a difference!!!). If the grease is just backing out the zerk with the needle tip, you MAY want to consider pulling the swing arm. Then you can be certain the the problem isn't a dried/crusty bearing, you can do the swing arm bearings and other maintenence at the same time, and you're good to go, with confidence in a well maintained bike Good Luck, S.H.

I figure, my bike cost thousands of dollars, Redline Heavy cost me $13.00, or about $5 more than some other options. If you could afford the bike in the first place, are you really sweatin' an extra $25.00 a year to change your driveline fluids, and buy decent oil? I know I'm not...I LOVE my bike, (although, Love can be irrational at times, too!) Carry on, or as Keith once famously sang, " I'm gonna walk before they make me run..." S.H.

Hi CFMAW, Although I personally find the color you're choosing revolting, I LOVE the form it's taking. S.H. ( ) P.S. Neros (and "my darker brothers" [READ: Scura]) RULE!!!... yeah, I said it...Dhhhamn, you do some nice work, man

So thats why they call ya BIGGERJIM!

Damn! That was fast, thanks...I love this place! S.H.

EASIEST WAY, (imho) Pull rear wheel, slide off final drive and rear half of driveshaft (and grease it while it's out,), point zerk toward the ground, Grease the zerk using a "needle type grease tip", reassemble. NO messing around with fabb'ing or bending anything, and the tip is at your local hardware place, mine cost under $10.00 and screwed on to my grease gun. Turns out the "hardest" maintenence procedure was a snap...Good Luck with all of yers, S.H.

When I bought my bike, there was no info. on the Powercommander it came with. I just got done reading an unrelated thread that mentioned that you must hold all three buttons down when turning on the ignition to make any adjustments. I did'nt know THAT, what else don't I know? I looked for a website, but found only sellers. I did a site search, and a internet search, but can't find any directions on it's use, or exactly what the lighted bar graph "means", etc. Can anyone point me in the right direction to learn a little about this thing BEFORE I need it? Thanks, S.H.

Hi Polebridge, Just thinking/wishin' the same as all above. Keep us informed of your progress, and we can "Internet Toast" when you're ready to roll 'er out again. My first BAD crash was at 23 years too...Glad to hear YOU are OK, S.H. P.S. You will need paint, and you mentioned the desire to keep her faired, NOW is the time to make her a NERO...

Hello fg, Try a search on any of the subjects you mention and you will dredge up mucho old and new threads. Also try the "FAQ" section for many year to year model issues. Me, I love the Pirrelli Diablo Strada's, and many other will tell you the same. Be careful, as reading this site becomes addictive, and then you'll want to contrbute $ to Jaap's "Grolsch stock/Website Upkeep Fund", (Thanks J Dude!) Happy Hunting, S.H.

Or you could try what Greg Field passed along here a while back. Said it is "the shit", or something to that effect... 1. Loosen entire exhaust system. 2. Put in a brand new set of crossover gaskets 3. With both pipes still loose at the heads, pull the 2 exhaust pipes together with a ratcheting tie down till the crossover is sandwiched snuggly between the two pipes, and tighten the two crossover clamps. 4. Now re-tighten the rest of the exhaust system. I heard the shims were $100.00+/-, and not always effective over time, but that is not from any personal experience, just what I've read here over time. Don't know what the stock crossover gaskets run, but the above method sounds like the most simple, and least expensive to boot, a WINNER in my book! Keep us informed of your progress. I'll need to do this in the future NEROS ROCK! Good Luck, S.H.

Check the yellow wire running in a loop from your alternator to the voltage regulater. There is at least one connector in that simple loop, and mine had two sets of connectors. I found one completely burnt and thus totally disconnected. It seems to be a pretty common fault. Put on a new connector and haven't had a problem since. Don't give up, and good luck!

Our 90 degree V self cancels out engines vibration more efficiently than the Harley 45 degree twin that many of us have ridden, and cools better than the Harleys front cyl. blocking air to the back jug. And the MG transverse mount again reduces total overall vibration vs. the HD. My Nero had about 7000 miles on the odometer. I decided to get above 4000 rpm, and not go below again, till parking it. This literally changed, no, elevated the relationship with my bike to this day. I have had many versions of an air cooled twin, but have never felt so comfortable really revving one till this bike, my first MG. At 11,000 miles now, it revs even freer. For me, 3000 rpm is ONLY for creepin' in traffic, period. That day, this popped in my head... "5800 rpm is like a loaded pistol...you can feel the potential..." S.H.

...And Amen to that sentiment, too...Y'all get home in one, fast, piece... S.H.

Amen, the simplest solutions are often the best...

That Redline sells exceptional products is backed by the fact that many here (and elsewhere) use it and love it. And believe me, the complaints would pile up fast here if ANYONE even remotely suspected that it was the cause of premature trans. wear. Lots of good running machines and happy owners in the real world(me included) vs. one dissenting story from the air and someone's thoughts, the choice is yers ...S.H.