savagehenry

I was wondering if the oil pan gasket has changed size over the last 20 years or so. Never had an old Guzzi before, and just wondering. Thanks, S.H.

Unless you plan on other work up front, you don't have to remove the fairing at all. Did all that on mine no problem. But it be a good time to do that headlight relay if you do pull it. Good luck either way, and sorry if I'm simply stating the obvious S.H.

Hey rockitdoc, I have the Nero Corsa, and with all those issues, that definately seems way too high a price. For about $1500 more, I got mine with alot of motor mods, carbon fiber slip on exhaust, fbf x over and Powercommander. It looked almost perfect and runs great. The only real extra $ issue was the Ohlins fork leaked. I pulled and put the forks back on and had them professionally rebuilt, was basically $200.00 for parts and labor. That and a speedo cable broke. Those have been my only repair bills on her, though I took her from 5000 to now 11,000 miles, so have done tires, a battery and all the rest of the usual maintenence/tune up items one would normally expect. I definately feel the Ohlins package is worth the extra up front $. But there was a thread not long ago, where I believe member "debenguzzi" offered a REALLY NICE Sport, with a lot of extra work, parts AND spare body parts, about to be new paint, $5500. Then another member chimed in, "my Rosso Mandello, $5500". Yeah, I think if you check here and the MGNOC classifieds, you would find a better deal. Hell, "rocker59" had a pristine Nero, with hard bags and wanted less than 8k, if memory serves me correctly. I'd keep lookin' if this owner doesn't want be more flexible.... Issues: That speedo cable I broke is now a new part # because the previous one broke at the trans, and a better angle at that point is now standard. Many feel you should swap out the stock relays for aftermarket ones. Mostly, issues are from bike to bike. Some say they have nothing but problems, but many wouldn't live without 'em. A short check here, on "FAQ's" and searches through "Tech" and "How to" will be invaluable with many of your question's. And, the fuel tank is ABS plastic. Good luck in your search. I cannot accurately describe in mere words how much I have enjoyed my Nero, and many here will say the same... But then I am also biased, since CORSA'S KICK ASS! S.H.

Did mine in the parking lot at the bike shop. No need to remove anything. Unscrew both ends of the dead cable, then place the trans side of the new cable end to end with the upper, speedo end of your old cable. Tape around both to hold them together. Now, gently pull from the trans side to "fish" the old cable out while pulling the new one along, following exactly the old route of the dead cable. Re-attach both ends, done. Good luck, S.H.

Cool as Hell! I hear all the hard core race fanatics say, "...I just started to have fun, but then..." !!! Good luck

Amen to that, brother...

Just did my first year anniversary ride, and crossed the 10,000 mile mark on the odometer, and 5,000 for us since I bought my Nero. As usual, plans changed, then changed, and changed again, for me and my buddies, leading up to the ride. Finally my favorite plan worked. Went solo. And instead of the middle and SW corner of Wisconson as I had planned earlier, I went to visit a friend 1/2 hr. north of Dubuque. Many think Iowa is FLAT, as in "Interstate 80, hours without TOUCHING the steering wheel" FLAT. But the areas along and around the Mississippi River are PERFECT for our bikes. Big sweeping curves through the unglaciated hills, enough where I could not see apexes for the radii and elevation changes. The Big Muddy, the trees, the air just filled with eagles, what more could you want?...Oh yeah, I also only saw ONE police officer ALL DAY! And I looked...so I could tell him there were other people exceding the speed limit all day,"No, thank YOU, just doin' muh part, Sir" Man, this bike sounds sooo effin' good wickin' it up, and rumblin' through those hills! Did just under 400 miles before 2:30 in the afternoon. I would highly suggest this destination if at all feasible, you will be rewarded by the motorcycle Gods for your wisdom... Also, thanks to you all on this site for helping me make THE CHOICE; "Le Mans? or Cafe Sport? Le Ma...", and providing me with some help, some definately interesting reading, and for "enabling" my hard hitting MG addiction. Jaap, thanks Man. Namaste, S.H.

Is the tank actually visibly shrinking, how do you KNOW its the dreaded suck? Can you tell/see some difference when you have the bike running, and THEN crack the cap? And when seated on my '04 with the cap flipped up, there is a hole in the 7:00 position with a 3/16" dia. (+/-) that LOOKS like a tank vent. I am too old to see the hole clearly up close, and when not fuzzy, it's too far away to SEE...and I cannot find it anywhere in my manual, perhaps that will help alittle...or start a new thread Good luck, S.H.

Bin (verb): Fancy shmancy way to say "shit can"

It's a DAMN nice feelin', eh? WOO-HOOO Carry on, S.H.

It's not that difficult, really. Like gstallons said, shove a piece of hose that fits snugly on the end of the bleeder valve. I use a piece of clear aquarium airpump hose, coiled for one complete 360 degree loop and hold the loop with a wire tie, with one end being about 1 inch long and 12inches or so for the long end. It creates a trap for the fluid so you don't draw back any air, but if you don't ever let go of the clutch when the valve is cracked open, you won't ever anyway. I could keep my wrench on the fitting, and my hand on the clutch lever on my knees from the left side, and did it with the bike on the sidestand, no disassembly required (except the "pisscup" cap, of course). Do it once a year, and brakes too, from the same new bottle, and keep the expensive master cylinders working a good long time. All of them are quite easy once you actually dig in, good luck S.H.

The extra cost up front MORE than pays for itself in the joy of the ride,IMHO. LONG after the money is "forgotten", you would not be sorry I was amazed at how much more planted I felt compared to any other bike I'd rode before.

Hi bizarro, Welcome aboard, and good luck on that tenni, Hey Van, we got one coming your way!!! (Moderator on the "tenni forum", and just plain SICK for that itineration of our beloved model) You've come to the right place, ride long, Nero's Rule! Black TRUMPS Green, eeeech (sorry, couldn't help that...) Later S.H.

Hey Petev11, you have come to the right place, welcome aboard! You will find this a very helpful site, and many questions will be answered quickly. Ride hard enough to scare yerself good, and still ride 'er home! See ya 'round, S.H.

Bought mine from FBF, over the 'net. I was gauranteed the bike was in PERFECT condition, was SAFE and needed NOTHING, except tires pretty soon. According to their own ad, "Produces 90hp at the rear wheel". As it turned out, the front Ohlins fork was delivered weeping, with signs that it was run on the road that way as you could see burnt oil spots on the front of the exhaust pipes. The right carbon fiber slip on had a scratch on top (some harlot's stilletto heel at the passenger peg from the looks of it), and the Head of Sales promised me a copy of the dyno report, which didn't arrive with the bike. When I brought up the forks and can, there was NO effort to do anything about what I considered serious issues for the price I paid and the word of a gentleman, now broken. Ended up going to the Vice President (Eraldo's son), who then was hooked up with MY MG guy, to work out a compromise. Their final offer was to pay for the seal kit for the forks, no more, roughly 10% of what the shop bill would be if they did it all. I told them I was insulted, and that I would take care of it myself, Thank You. The salesmen promised me the dyno report 2 more times over the next couple of weeks. It never arrived, and he then refused to take a call or answer any e-mail from me. And I did not call alot, or any other behavior I would have considered "pestering". I have nothing good to say about their manner in which they deal with customers whose money they have, and live far enough away that they feel safe that they will not have to ever look you in the eye, hopefully ever... Aside from that, I LOVE her. They put their full catalog of parts in her, and a cam, and heads done by hand by "their guy", and she runs really well. I have since made my own mods, and have done the entire list of maintenence schedule and more.What a great bike to work on! And that dyno report??? Who gives a shit about a piece of paper, she runs like a shithouse rat with turpentine on his AH!!! My analysis of your question: Be wary of their word, trust their work. Of course, this is all MY opinion, your experience would hopefully be more rewarding all around, S.H.

From that thread,"If the reg looses its ground referance it does all sorts of odd things like 17 volts. " Good luck, man.

Hey All, Just in the mood to Gush Unabashedly, Brag, "suck it up and fix 'er" and profess the love of my "new" bike...Feel free to leave now if yer in no mood for PROSE on the internet... In roughly the same period of time, in the EARLY '70's, I saw "On Any Sunday" and "Easyrider". This did NOT ONE THING to quell "my interest" in "Graveyard Ponies" (Granda's view) AND we had a genuine M/C GANG, (now they prefer "club") right around the corner. As a kid, I loved, then lost, my beloved 5 horse Tecumseh minibike because my 3 sisters, and I, could not ALL share and enjoy the experience "equally". I always loved Harleys. Started when I was very young, and was based in sheer LOVE of the visceral experience that is the genuine American garage built chopper. Long stroke, torquey, ROWDY bikes. Well built and designed by smart friends, BAD Ideas, and Drunken Stupidity resulting in TRULY DANGEROUS (READ: Not Safe ) bikes. To this day, a 4 cylinder rocket has not been able to entice me. AIR COOLED TWINS, PLEASE. Had several Harleys, in various set-ups, much to my mothers dismay, over the years, after I got my license. Spent my time in the "M/C school of Hard Knocks" (READ: ) 9 years in, in a non M/C related accident, I injured my kicking leg (read: "Kickers ONLY, Dammit!") bad enough to be off work for a year and a half. Lost ALL my stuff, (bikes, parachutes, home, etc.) while fighting the legal system for re-compense. Took the money, and decided I will NOT spend time NOT RIDING. Bought an old BMW. The Flat Twin. The Legend remains for a REASON. Forces cancelled=Smoothness. Years of JOY. At the somewhat TAMED expense of "the visceral experience..."...and life moved on. Got married, had kids. Now it ALL means something. Three years ago. 20 years on the street. FIRST Car vs. Motorcycle accident, Head on, NO GEAR.......and WALK AWAY... ...then 3 friends die... ...I saw the Green/ Red frame when it came out in '99. It was DEFINATELY nothing I would have considered before. But it was'nt SHARP, like the Eastern offerings.. It was Countoured. It was air cooled in a world of "Hyper HP EFFIN extreme" new shite. Analog vs. Digital...and it would'nt go away... Came here 14ish monthes ago. Researched the model. A guy who was selling a Cafe Sport turned me on to a Nero Corsa (WANTED the Ohlins Package, and am very ) on the FBF site. "Analogboy" buys a "newish", never ridden bike, much less a Moto Guzzi, over the Internet!, cuz it's got "all the SHITE" (see below), wife is NOT Happy... ...It is "the SHITE" and I LOVE her. For me, a PERFECT Daily bike. It perfectly blends the rowdy long stroke 45 degree twin, with the more engineeringly sound 90 degree V, and the transverse mount "BMWish advantage". I've had a couple of the "teething problems", and had my first "I can't ride when I WANT TO!" moment 2 weeks ago, fixed it. On June 1st, OUR 1 year anniversary of RIDING, we will do the un-glaciated "driftless" area of S.W. Wisconson, 500 miles+/_ again. We will anoint in the Mississippi, again. Last time, it was curves and hills and views and smells and never met people and good food and beer and NO Major Highways till LATE and spppppeeeddd...ALL day long, you get my point Jaap, Great Site. Will continue to lend support as "computer vs. homebrew" dictates. Hey you slags! Pay homage to the little demon that Gnaws! and whispers, "This site has served you WELL, DONATE!!!" Thanks for the help, fun and commeraderie, see ya round, Namaste, S.H.

I agree with Ouij and lean towards the "just get her on the road first" camp. Even "FREE" bikes soon become too expensive when you do tires, battery, brakes, solve the gummed fuel issue, first FIND the electrical issue, pay/fix the HOPEFULLY one issue, THEN see a real nice example of the same bike in the paper for $2750 OBO, and you haven't even got the money for PAINT yet .... For you "Labor of Love"/Masochist types (been there, several times...), try "www.airheads.org", and good luck with 'er. They are pretty bullet proof, fun old bikes. Easy to work on, everything is just hanging out, alot like these, really. S.H.

Definately Bondhus allens. At all major tool outlets, made well, dependable and a lifetime warranty which I have only used when I could just tell I was gonna break something, soon...

, with all due regards to "stupid"...there's VERY little effort to have that piece on a bench for a proper fix. And now you might as well put in a Roper plate while yer there. "Luck favors the Prepared" :bier:S.H.

Glad to hear of your results. I always roll the throttle open a touch just as I hit the button, starts every time. I would DEFINATELY reset your valves to .006" and .008". Easier starting and more lower end torque are real world riding payoffs! Ride on, S.H.

Damn....Life IS short. Live it. As our friend died, DOING IT. God's speed, Dr.

Hi, Pete's plate is more properly a "sloppage tray". When you accellerate hard, or go up a grade, forward movement and gravity causes the oil to go to the back of the crankcase AND UP the back wall of the crankcase too. Imagine a glass of water, suddenly slid forward, hard. Or tipping that same glass and holding it at an angle. As the oil moves back, the level in the front of the crankcase goes down, sometimes enough to let your oil pick up suck a good gulp of nothing but air. With the plate, the oil has a "ceiling" that contains the total oil volume to a smaller overall room. It limits the slopping of the oil to the bottom of the crankcase. In in my case,I would see the red light on plenty of brisk take offs. Put in a sloppage plate, and have not seen the red light ONCE while running, including lifting the front wheel in 2 gears. It works, NO DOUBT.

from the thread "how to, finally, grease the uni joints., greasing the front uni joint " in HOW TO... I have never found a thread in this forum telling me how to grease the front uni without taking out the swing arm. This has been giving me the shits for years. Today I finally figured out how to grease the front uni joint on my Ballabio and then managed to let it fall over and crease one of the Titanium pipes. 1. Go buy a 12" long McNaught (KZLNS) or similar needlepoint coupler grease attachment. About $50 in Australia. This will also grease the rear uni with no problems. 2. take off the rear wheel and the bevel box. 3. Get under the rear of the bike and rotate the shaft so the nipple is facing down (not up as I keep reading) 4. Hold up the tail shaft 5. Grease away. It goes in no problems. There is info on where to get the needle tip greasers in the rest of that thread also

I read in a popular oil write up (found at XS11.com) that the best overall performer in M/C oils turned out to be Mobil 1 synth. Now I have also found this, as I was searching for a SG rated motor oil, from the Mobil1.com site; " Ask Mobil Using an SM-Rated Oil When an SG-Rating is Recommended Ask Your Stickiest Question. . . Or ask us something you’ve always wanted to know about using our products. We’ll sort through all the submissions and present the best questions to our automotive experts. The questions, and their answers, will post right here on the site. Question: Using an SM-Rated Oil When an SG-Rating is Recommended I just purchased a '92 Corvette and after changing the oil to Mobil 1 Extended Performance I noticed on the hood that it recommends an oil with the API rating of SG. After looking at the empty container it does not have this rating. Is this safe for my vehicle? -- Larry Morgan, Auburndale, FL Answer: API ratings are backward compatible to previous generation ratings. This means that an API SM quality oil, which is the latest API rating, is recommended where API SL, SJ, SH, SG were originally required." Any thoughts/ comments from the Peanut gallery?