savagehenry

I took a depth measurement from the face of the nut to the face of the swing arm pin on both sides, and when I re-assembled it, used those numbers to put them back in, worked just fine. Also, the "pork chops" are aluminum and the threads are fine, so I put a very light coat of anti-seize on them and was careful not to cross thread them when I put it back together. Some have found that out the hard way. Definately grease the driveshaft while it's out. There is a list here, pinned in "tech" or "FAQ" (?) that has a long set of things to do while your rear is apart so you can do this once instead of twice when you forget to check bearings, insure that the rear caliper is freely moving and cleaned, lube the cush drive, etc. Paint? Can't endorse anything specific. I just used whatever was laying around in "black and shiny", still looks fine after thousands of miles ago, good luck on yers, S.H.

Alot of issues when bike is running hot can be due to valve clearances. What do you set them at? Looser is better on these bikes, I run .008 and .010 intake and exhaust, myself.

Aw, shucks. Thanks, but it was nothing, really...No, really, I didn't help at all, so it really was nothing

Actually, it would probably be a good idea to open up your speedo and grease the gears. You have the ITI, which are notorious for being assembled with very little lube on plastic gears which you will not be able to replace once they strip. I've heard alot of people swear by a great gage repair shop in Palo Alto Ca, and they will not work on the ITI's because parts can't be found. My speedo just crapped out at 25,000 miles and I haven't found a replacement yet, and don't want to buy another from MG just yet. I'm considering going digital instead. There is a thread here on how to do the service on these, including where to cut your housing, etc., I just can't find it right now

If the head of the screw is still there, you should be able to get it out, the threads are left handed ie: Lefty tighty, righty loosey, hope that is some help

Did the actual screw break the head off, or has the plastic knob broke, leaving the intact screw stuck in place?

I'm addicted to the torque that an air cooled pushrod twin brings to the party. And that "muscle car, soulful" feel and gorgeous exhaust note. I have found my Nero to be a perfect fit for me and a very reliable ride. It spins faster than the Harley V twin due to the relative squareness of the motor, the more balanced 90 degree layout as opposed to the 45 degree V and the motor being "sideways" in the frame instead of in line with it means just enough vibes, instead of vibes pulsing up and down the frame. Those factors mean I can access that power lower in the rev range with fewer gear changes, unlike the water cooled fours that need you to keep the revs at the top end to access it's best range of power, requiring much more shifting. Throw in the Ohlins suspension and I find it to be a perfect commuter, and sporting ride in one. I love the fact that you will be the only one at a bike run, exclusivity has its rewards for the rider who appreciates that which others shun...and it's about the most beautiful piece of kinetic art ever produced, in my eyes

Check with Moto Intl., I think they stocked them, and of course, you can just go to the source, he's around here now and again...

Uh, actually, Superman could have just flown around the earth BACKWARDS, so fast that he could have turned back time, to just before you put that filter on... But seriously, do you rub a little oil on the gasket of a new filter before you put it on? I was taught to do that and have never had the tightness or gasket damage issues...of course, NOW I've written this, I undoubtly will

Wouldn't delrin be too hard for this application? Or is the inner bushing "soft" too? Looks like its the rubber sqeezing out, and thats the cushion at both ends of the rod. Delrin is what I used to replace the missing O-ring for the foot brake stop, but cushion wasn't important there, just needed to keep the pedal from whacking the eccentric/stop. I say the answer is the same in all situations like this: The McMaster-Carr catalog. It's on line, and the folks manning the phone lines are really helpful if you're fishing for just the right thing you need but maybe didn't even know existed. Find an acceptable rubber, and back to firing up that lathe!

It's been a while since I was in there, but I seem to recall that they are button heads. I had a similar experience and replaced all mine with socket head cap screws so you would then be using a larger size allen wrench. I like to use those wherever I can. Allen wrenches are smaller than open end/box wrenches and store easily, and I like to be prepared in case you find the need to do the ol' road side repairs... been there, done that

Don't forget to replace them with something that will be easier to remove next time, should this arise again down the road.

...notice anything else about the outfit? Yup, proof positive it takes a REAL man to feel comfortable in anything red, what a fruity color...regardless of if it's a skirt, a motorcycle, whatever. This thread is making me tho angry, I feel like I could just go out and crush thumbody's daffodils!!! Oh golly, now I've gone and made myself feel positively Brutish.

Isn't a "Gladius" the sword the Roman Army used to conquer the known world, and kill all who attempted to oppose them?

Good time to make sure your kill switch works too!

When I had that problem, it was the neutral switch on the transmission. Try grounding the wire and see if the problem remains. I just took it the sensor out, gave it a good clean out and have been fine since, hope that helps

Nice example of the breed, KenH, Good to see the registery active again. You can tell by the other models much higher volume of chatter that it is, in fact, that OUR Nero's are truly the rariest, thus most highly coveted of all the varients! Here's another pic of mine,

I lift the rear wheel, pull the plugs, put trans in 6th gear and turn by hand. I use a straw or wooden dowel in the plug hole to gauge TDC. Also, both pushrods should then spin freely.

The bike that actually made me consider buying a Moto Guzzi...

Love mine, NO complaints, so far just keep clean fluid in them yearly or so

Sorry, not much help to you here, but...Man, been a long time since ya been round, good to see ya home! Hope your change in scenery has been a great experience, too. Later, S.H. Also, we have some newish blood around here who are particularily adept at electrical mysterys, so, "Paging Dr. Kiwi Roy, Dr. you're urgently needed in triage, STAT!!!"

I lost mine a few years ago, the screw is left hand thread, IIRC, Can't say I've had any internal fuel line popping off on the Nero, are you refering to the one that attaches to the filter/pump body?

Rode a R100/7, then a R100S before I bought my Nero. You would have to get my Nero from my estate because it will never be for sale by me unless there is some seriously major problems well beyond my control! My MG is by a long shot the most favored bike I've ever owned, bar none. And I'm obviously biased, but the determining factor for me would be to buy an Ohlins equipped LeMans (or Sport), post 2003 model.

Hi, Sorry to hear about your Dad, but nice to know you value the things that remind you of him. You should get that thing running, and take a ride. What year is it, can you post pictures of it? 1. I don't know if you can just stop in at the local Wallyworld. Stop in and see if you can cross referance the battery. If not, go online and check the Moto Guzzi website to see if you have a dealer nearby, can't tell from your location as posted. If you are so inclined, you could get a battery shipped by 1 day mail for a higher cost if time is of the essence. 2. After you get a sound battery, unless the bike has sat for years, or you know it had some problem that caused it to be parked, I would check the oil level, drain the old gas and put in some new gas and hit the button. 3. Because the bike is EFI, they tend to start exhibiting problems if the battery isn't at least 12.7 volts, or more. Depending on how old your battery is, I would at least put a voltometer on it with the bike off and check the static level. Once you get a good battery in (assuming the one you have is below that 12.7 v.) you will get a better idea of if you have actual problems. The alternator is at the front of the motor, behind the round cover. There will always be folks who can help with your questions, and NOBODY cares if you are a "noob", we all have to start somewhere. Depending on your location, there may even be members who would stop by and pitch in. Good luck, S.H.

Three simple moves: Push,Push,Pull. 1. Push hose towards the fitting 2.Push the collar towards the hose 3. Pull the hose off (while still pushing the collar)