savagehenry

Also clean and re-grease that cushdrive, plus a list of other stuff much easier to do now, said list easily found in another part of this site which I can't recall off the top of my head

I tend to side with Skeeve, here. The issue with low oil, and loose filters, seemed to be crank bearings. I would seriously consider that you will need a lot of looking into this motor before it's started again. Your oil light flickering would not put you in this much trouble without other stuff first. The earlier referenced oil routing article by Pete Roper called it "not a sudden engine death, but death by a thousand cuts" (paraphrased). I ran mine "to red" more than a few times before I decided I wanted a sloppage plate. BEST damn thing you can do if you goose these bikes at all, IMHO. Currently at 24,000 "pert near" carefree miles. And when you put a plate on, before you reinstall the oil pan, put the oil dipstick in, w/o screwing it in, and mark the spot where the plate and the dipstick meet. Then, I put a Vee notch in a dipstick rib with a file. Way easier to see than holes for me. Now, put the belly pan on, gaskets and all. Leave the bike on the sidestand and start dumping in that nice, fresh oil, and after qt. # 3, add a 1/4 qt, check your stick, repeat, till you get damn near the top of the plate, which you can also see with a flashlight when you look right down the hole in the case. I put in two more notches for 1/2 qt. down, and "you really should think about oil, NOW" level And Me, being me, I like the second engine route. As always, the best money spent is that which you do not spend, so much as to pay tuition at Home Schoolin' on your bike, if that's an option, money makes it make sense, etc... first, after a long night in the garage, and smile like a Effin' Fool on the first successful Good Luck, S.H.

Splicer, First, hate to hear this. Second, can't see the pictures due to my computer illiteracy/post is funky, and next, Who did the last valve adjustment, how involved in your bike do you get? Are you hip to "Tapping tappets are happy tappets?" This sounds like it was bad before it got worse, and there are so many reasons this could occur...both through part failure/premature wear, or improper maintenence, a mere forgotten nut tightening, or a mistimed and mis-set pushrod clearance, an unseen to the eye bastard chip of some hardshit seating in the rocker cap and eating it, etc...SOUND'S like it was pretty eff'ed before you shut it down. I hate to say it, but Why is probably of less importance than how it will be repaired at this moment. I'm not aware of there ever being an issue with cam face surface hardness with any of the '99-04 V11's Maybe if you could post some more pic's, give us a little history of your bike's "daily feeding and care", best of luck, for what that's worth, S.H.

Let me be the first to welcome you aboard! Great choice of motorcycle, almost bought one before I found my Nero Corsa. Ohlin's transforms these bikes! Good luck with your's, sounds like you will fit her nicely S.H.

One of my favorite upgrades has been a BackOFF voltge indicator, got it at CycleGadgets.com, NO affiliation, just a customer. For like 32 bucks and change, it's real comforting to know you are currently charging, or in trouble. It's just a single LED light and the control module the size of a wooden match box. Runs through a diagnostic "O.K." at every start up, and then constantly monitors the output of the alternator when you are riding. And best of all, real easy to mount and hook up. Here's mine saying it's charging, then not, note the RPM's. In the middle, there is a yellow color saying your at 12v.

I made a thin silicone washer to fit under that steel washer, greased it all and put it back on. Seems to be a very easy solution to keep outside moisture from getting in.

The voltage regulator has two yellow wires running to it, and they have broken on mine before, as well as several others here on this board. Real easy to visually check those and rule that out, or give you a place to start It sounds like you are not real familiar with trouble shooting/diagnostics. This could be a great time to begin that learning curve, start aquiring some tools and a multimeter, pick up a book on m/c electrics, hang out here and ask questions, DEFINATELY use your "Search" function for all the previous posts here about the same issues you have, etc. That, or bite the bullet and aquaint yourself with your local reputable Guzzi dealer/independant m/c shop.

That's exactly what I had in mind when I bought mine, and your bike only solidified the concept. It's just that I keep seeing the dual headlight set up in my mind's eye Now if I could just photoshop it for a better look at it before I commit.

For all intensive purposes, we have the same bike, so, yes, my bike is also pretty damn ugly w/o the fairing. I pull it off to do my valves, general connector greasings, "inside the cockpit" look-over,etc. Plus, it feels even lighter with the unobstructed view. I still see visions of a different set of body work (in DEEP metalflake blue and a black ralley stripe, or Zebra Striped,) and the double headlight S/U of the Triumph Speed Triple... Sorry to gush, but this bike still gives me a boner after 4+ years S.H.

I write this because if you haven'nt tried it, you will not know you will be sorry to0 not have... To all LeMans owners on this board, it takes minutes to pull your fairing. You will not believe how this simple fairingdectomy TRANSFORMS your bike...

Had a head on crash with a car on my BMW R100. You could clearly see where the car's bumper hit the left cylinder, stopped the bike, launched me over the car, another car, and unceremoniously dropped me on the asphalt, clear of all further danger. I walked away with a gouge to my thigh as the end of the right handlebar shaved out some leg meat/skin. I have no doubt that if I were on my panhead, I would have taken my left leg off, or been severely hurt at best. Those jugs sticking out are your friend...glad to hear it's just the bike, and not YOU

The issue has several factors as I understand it. The narrow included angle of the closely spaced valves hampers "slower" air smooth movement to some degree. The 90 degree V configuration (a naturally vibe quelling layout in engine design in general), plus the soothing effect of putting that V in sideways to the frame lends it towards higher revs. I basically never go back under 3,000 rpm once that ceiling is passed. I do commute, so I keep it in 1st gear and roll along at 5000 where I'm just poking along in a line of traffic, or if you are smoothly going slow, I will sometimes put it in second gear, and roll at just above a happy idle. I agree with ScuRoo, with these motors, you just don't lolly gag around in those lower RPM's, blow through the gear or wind it up a bit more when needed, These will happily spin at 6,000 rpm ALL DAY LONG. When I got used to mine after I first bought it, I spent a day ride going over 4,500 rpm and no lower, and alot of it above 6,000. During that ride, I was shown the essence of the Guzzi god, and it was good. As they say, the hook was set, and damn deep, too.

I second the motion of our esteemed ambassador of Guzzidom from the Emerald Isle. With mine, it'a sure sign that my front exhaust cross over is leaking. Started popping here and there when hot just three days ago, and Yep! Damned thing is loose on the left side. In terms of full disclosure, I do really need to do the full tune up procedeure, as mine has not caused me to feel the need for over 4 years now!

I think if you take a nice picture of the script and send it to Jaap, he can put it in our file of those sorts of things. Then that can be used to get a sticker made. I tried with the "Nero Corsa" script, but it was during a rather busy point in his life, and he mentioned it might not happen right away. I will try again soon.

I'm IN! Just found out my picture was selected yesterday!!! Wow, that's pretty cool, a part of MG history

I'm on my second set of Diablo Stradas and will move to the Angels when needed. I got about 9000 miles from my first set of the D.S's, front and back mounted at the same time, same with this set. It looks like this set will go about the same distance, and I have NO "chicken strips" on the rear, a small one on the front. Rain or shine, good grip both front and back has never been an issue thus far with the matched set of tires, so I personally see no reason to mix 'em up. The only change I may make is to go back to a 180 series width. I had the 170 series rear tire mounted this time to see if it did quicken handling as many here have done on the later model rear wheel. Now it does feel a little quicker to drop in to the turn, but it also feels like the two tires track on a different line, with the rear swinging out a little further in the turns, and the tip of my boot is paying the price!

I use a needle tip grease nozzle (under $10.00 at your local hardware store) for when the rear wheel is off, and do a major clean and grease when I pull the swing arm. That shaft alone is $800.00. plus what it will take out if it fails big time. Of course, it's your bike, your call

Ugly enough to knock a buzzard off a shitwagon.

My Pirellis say "Made in Germany" , still love 'em. I will buy Angels in 6000 miles or so, I got 9,000+ out of the last set of the Diablo's, which the Angels replace, if I'm not mistaken.

A little trick I use to bleed the clutch, and brakes is this handy idea. Take about two feet or so of clear plastic hose with a 3/16 inch I.D., make a small loop and tie it with a zip tie, so there is a 1-2 inch long piece, the loop, and then a section of hose long enough to roughly reach the floor. Just crack the fitting loose, not open, and put the short section of hose over the fitting, and the long end in the beer can you just drained. Pump the lever till solid, crack the fitting till the handle collapses, tighten the fitting and then let the lever go. Pump, crack, tighten, release, repeat. After the first pumping, the hose loop will be filled, and now acts like a J trap in your sink drain. Even if your hand slips, or you simply have a brain fart and let the lever go before you've retightened the fitting, you will not draw any air back in to the line. When you see clean fluid in the trap, you're done. It takes me about 30 minutes+/- to do clutch, rear brake and both fronts. Sometimes a little longer, if I rest my hand and "ice" my weary paw by holding a can of something cold and beer like. To start the whole process,I use a plastic syringe (from a pharmacy,for giving liquid meds) to drain the dirty fluid from the "piss cup", and refill with the clean stuff (saves alot of pumping to get the bad stuff out of the cup), then start the squeeze/loosen/tighten drill. Good luck, S.H.

I just measured the depth of the lock nut faces to swing arm pivot pin face before breaking the lock nuts loose, and put them back the same, making sure they feel free moving and not just setting it back "exactly to the numbers". Definately check your swing arm bearings while in there, the limited range of motion tends to wear them in a smaller area than a bearing that spins. Also, check your outboard bearing in the rear trans housing as this is only covered by the large washer, and tends to be one of the most common ones to go bad.

I love that Cafe Sport up front. Almost bought one, till I bought the best lookin', best handlin' V11. And I understand performance/function outweighs the look, I mean, c'mon, I've owned several old beemers ferchrissakes. But that line of Hondas has to be the ugliest line of bikes I've seen in a friggin' lifetime!!! P.S. I have flirted with the idea of a "Large range of Dealers, with parts on demand! Bikes, the VFR in particular. A Highly Valued M/C source tells me , "they are like popcorn. Very fun at first, but in the long run they lack substance..." ...the very antithesis of the Moto Guzzi...

Tremendously sorry to hear this news. Things like this always hit home HARD. I've found shops like his are the only kind I've ever frequented. Charactor, and personally delivered service, from a friend, trumps all else. That's why I love my local MG guy. If I couldn't ride, I would still drop in just for the "atmosphere" of a real m/c shop. Again, my condolences to his family, and the people in his life like yourself.

Something else to consider, There is a set of rubber wedges in the rear wheel casting. These need to be cleaned and lubed as part of the tire change. The function of the "pucks" is to act as a shock absorber between the rear wheel and the drive line. The first time I had a rear tire change and the cush drive maintenence, I could not believe how much smoother my bike became as far as drive line snatch/jerking. If this wasn't done when the tires were done, I would definately do it/have it done. Maybe there is a charge for this on your bill to confirm it was done, or not??? That being said, these bikes do not suffer lightly the rider with an unsmooth throttle wrist. The first time I whacked my tailbone with the rear seat cowling was the moment I decided to smooth my technique, asap

Congrats on the new bike, Splicer!!! Mine has, and remains, the most favorite bike of the ones I've owned so far. Those Ohlins truly transform the ride over a standard suspension, huh? If you ever decide to excede the speed limit on a isolated stretch of twisty road I bet you'll really be singin' a happy tune in your helmet. I know because I have occasionally done this, by accident, in some of the areas around my place. Any other details? What's the mileage? Looks like you've still got the stock exhaust, any mods or changes? Cool to see another one out there used for what they are intended for. Kinetic art, not simply a statue of one of the best looking bikes ever produced!