profWacko

By reclocking, I mean changing their rotational position. Using your 14mm open end, loosen the banjo bolt just enough to allow it to turn, but not enough to allow any brake fluid to escape or air to get in. Then tighten it up again. -Jack

I was thinking that I would feel a lot more vibration with these bars, but that is not the case really. There's a very slight increase in vibs, but I was planning on switching to those ProGrip gels anyway. They more than make up the difference, certainly compares to the thin stock grips. >>wiring The only thing I had to change was the wire bundle for the starter switch cluster, which I routed behind the fork tube. It was too short to leave it in front where it formerly ran along with the throttle cables. Other than re-clocking the banjo bolts on the clutch and brake master cylinders, that's all I changed. There's a little logo on the Tomaselli's that looks like a big M with a very small T above it. The same logo is on the stock clipons that I took off. Is it possible that Tomaselli makes the factoery ones? -Jack

After being absent for nearly four years (long boring story), I finally got my Tomaselli adjustables put on. These items have a tremendous range of adjustability and are really well made. I have mounted mine so that the bars are about an inch higher and 2 inches further back. The result is a more upright riding position which suits my needs a lot more than the forward lean of the originals. Anyone know where these might still be available? -Jack More pics -Jack More pics -Jack

They make an extremely high-quality product. It fit perfectly, looks great, and provides a bigger pocket of relatively still air. -Jack

Not weird at all. That's exactly why I have ridden my bike to lots of trackdays. Not wanting to throw your ride home down the track is a huge incentive towards caution above all else.. At least on me. -Jack

OMG!! This is just sooooo wrong! http://www.jwoodandcompany.com/2007/07_pic...omoto_front.jpg -Jack

The Wilbers is terrific. It has a lot more adjustability than the Ohlins I had on my 2002, but it came setup VERY stiff, whereas the Ohlins was totally plug and play. After a few turns of the screws, the Wilbers has settled down very nicely. The shock from Wilbers is nearly an inch longer than the Sachs, but the added ride height seems to be a positive change all around. And now I can easily change the rear spring preload with the airbox gone. -Jack

Here's a shot of the pods on my Le Mans. I like the look of it, and the fact you can now see through the bike. And the rear preload adjuster is accessible. Always a bonus. I am not noticing very much noise increase at all. The first time I took the bike out I intentionally do not wear earplugs so I could hear the difference, but their wasn't much. It's probably running a trifle leaner now, but it pulls like a FREIGHT TRAIN from 5k up. I jumped on it going up the hill to my house in 3rd gear and it actually surprised me with how hard it pulled. Can you say, "happy camper"? I knew you could... -Jack

Very good suggestion. I will be using the Uni foam ones, which still require oiling. I'll post pics when I get them installed a little later on today. -Jack

Meesathinkin you're right about the two versions. The forks come apart pretty much like any others I have ever worked on. Just remembere that you have to remove the cartridge retaining screw from the bottom of the fork leg before it will come out. I took mine out to pump out all of the old fluid when I changed springs. -Jack

>>I just routed mine down so that its behind the transmission facing the street. Cut off any excess hose so that it doesnt look sloppy. Thanks, Richard. I was just wondering if it made much difference not having a negative pressure in the crankcase. So, apparently not. Cool. -Jack

What did you do with the crankcase vent hose when you took off the air box? It's the one coming from the large banjo fitting on the top of the spine. Inquiring minds want to KNOW! ADVthanksANCE -Jack

For Rusty Bucket: Here's a look at the preload adjuster inside my forks (2004 Le Mans) -Jack

Ok, just don't hate me because I live in southern Kalifornia. http://www.astro.ucla.edu/~obs/towercam.htm -Jack

I'll have a full set if they are made available. -Jack

>>My ti pipes have "for racing only" stamped on the underside of the st/steel band. So does mine, but meesathinkin that it should not be a problem because it took me a little while to find it. Plus there's that prominent factory logo on the outside. If it turns out to be a problem, I've got my stock ones (izza 2004) that I'll loan you. -Jack

Mine's seems to be solid. Should we have a poll? -Jack

I just ordered one. I let you know when I get my hands on it. -Jack

My experience was totally opposite of that. The seller asked me for specific torso measurements when I ordered, and my jacket fits better than any other jacket I own. Same for the pants. Like I said in my earlier post, YMMV. But mine was really good. -Jack

I bought eBay item #270076111171 recently. I was extremely pleased to discover that it is worth at least double the $425US I paid for it. I ordered the jacket with the Guzzi logos only. No Shell, Arai, NGK, etc logos on mine. And the pants I got are black only with silver lettering. YMMV, but my suit turned out to be a good value. -Jack

Very interesting comparison table on that site. Since you cannot compare weight specs between manufacturers, the only way to have predictable results to changes is to stay with one brand. Thanks guys. BTW, I just got a reply from HMB-GUZZI (the guy in Germany with the Ohlins forks). At the current exchange rate, a pair goes for $1,794.31 plus $80 shipping. He takes PayPal, and he has them in stock. All of which leads to the burning question: Do I want $3,000 worth of suspension products on my Le Mans? I'm already in for nearly $1k for my Wilbers shock. I gotta decide how much time & effort I want to spend on the Marzocchi's before I jump ship. Those gold-anodized fork legs would look reeeeaaalllyyyy good though. -Jack

Where can I buy some of this stuff? I've gotta try something else besides the 7.5 I have in there now. -Jack

Thanks. I'll give that a try. -Jack

>>did you follow proper sequence in assembling the fork to assure no binding? I'm pretty sure I got it back together exactly as it came apart, but there's no gaurantee that it was really right from the factory. When I first fitted the legs back into the triples, I set them to the same installed height above the clamps that they were before, and the axle slipped right in, indicating that the forks were in pretty much the same alignment as when I took them apart. I put the front wheel on with no calipers yet, tightened up the bolts on the uppers a little, took it off the jack and onto the front stand, bounced it a few times, and then torqued up all of the bolts on the triples with it sitting there with the static weight on the front end. It seems to bounce up and down about the same as before. Anybody have a step-by-step "Front End Assembly for Dummies" I can refer to? >8] -Jack

>>If you need to draw off excess oil, you can use y'er brake tube and/or tubing. That's the whole point of the tubing/siphon procedure. Plus, you get very repeatable levels. Motion Pro sells a fork fluid level setting device that I have seen used in a lot of shops. My version is just a lot less expensive. >>Excessive rebound dampin' can cause the suspension to "pack" and thus become harsh. I could not agree more. >>FWIW: I went with 5w fluid in my set, and they were still harsh. That's a pretty revealing fact, which is why I may be looking for the link to that German guy with all of the forks. I was beginning to think that I have some kind of mechanical binding going on, but after reading about the 5wt still being too harsh, that might not be the case. -Jack (still bounding down the roadway...) Here's how the siphon thingy works. Just pretend that the roll of paper towels is your fork tube.