profWacko

>>Wot're the symptoms? Generally, a lack of compliance over any kind of bumps. If I dial out the rebound (the only adjustment I have, right?), the front gets really mushy and bouncy, but it is still harsh. When I dial in some rebound to get rid of the bounciness, it's better overall, but I still get pounded over bumps, like the expansion joints on the freeway, or worse in bumpy turns where you don't know if the bike is gonna bounce left or right. Basically, the rebound setting has no affect on the harshness over bumps. I believe that what I am experiencing is waaaaayyyyyy too much high-speed compression damping, which is endemic to these forks from what I read here and elsewhere. What I have done so far is switch to the heavier progressive springs from Wilbers (thanks, Todd), and I have changed the fork fluid to 7.5 wt, with a 100mm air gap. The higher spring rate has really helped a lot, as the bike no longer nose-dives under braking. Speaking of air gap, here's how I set it (assumes you have the fork leg totally compressed and vertical in a vice on your work bench: 1) Take a short length of 3/16 steel brake line and mark lines from one end every 10mm or so until you get to 150 or 160. 2) Connect a few feet of clear plastic tubing to the opposite end tube from the marks. 3) Use a pair of needle nose vise grips (or some other kind of clamp) to hold the tube vertical in the fork leg with the desired air gap mark even with the top of the leg. 4) Over-fill the fork with fluid of choice so that there is fluid up in the steel tube. 5) Siphon out the excess fluid through the clear tubing. When the fluid stops flowing, you have the air gap that you want. So, what's my next step? (with apologies to Steve Jobs >8]) -Jack

The newer bikes have a new gizmo in the shifter linkage called a "special adjusting eccentric". Has anyone figured out what this really adjusts? Meesathinkin that mine is not adjusted so well becaue I can get a neutral in between just about any two gears you want to name, especially when downshifting. I know that my clutch is dragging a bit and that is likely causing some of the problems, but I don't think that's what's causing me to get so many neutrals. My 2002 Le Mans shifted A LOT better, as I recall. Any thoughts? -Jack

>>Yah, damn Aprilia retards were so stupid they put phreakin' Ohlins on a two wheeled tractor. Does anyone have the link for that guy in Germany that had a bunch of the Guzzi OEM Ohlins forks for sale? Also, does Race Tech have replacement valves for the Marzocchi's? I might jump ship from my Marzocchi's because I'm getting a little tired of the battle. My tractor needs better suspension in the front mesathinkin. -Jack

>>I HAVE 2004 LeMans COLOR RED So do I, and I need a small quantity of the red paint to fix a scrape on the fairing. Anyone else? Maybe we could buy a larger quantity and do a little distribution among the injured parties, so to speak... -Jack

BMW quick-disconnects What a great idea! It only seems fair to use those on my LeMans since my R1150GS has a Mistral muffler from a V11 on it. The quick disconnects work great on the GS when tank removal is necessary. Really saves a lot of mess. And yes, all of the AdvRider GS guys were horrified at the thought of Moto Guzzi parts on a BMW. -Jack

I guess I should fess up. I bought it. Sure, I probably overpaid a little for it, but it is in like-new condition and is a very cool item. Besides, where could I have gotten a new one? And would it have cost less? -Jack

That's the one. Thanks -Jack

>>There's a thread on Wildguzzi about how to repair the gears on ITI instruments, written by Wayne Orwig, I think.. >> I tried to find this thread using their search engine but turned up zip. Could someone post a link to that thread? ADVthanksANCE -Jack

>>large, wrench-adjusted, setting Yep, that's the one. I guess I'll have to get mine apart again to see what's what in there. Thanks -Jack

According to the owner's manual and the shop manual CD I have, the fork preload adjusters should have a range of 15 turns from min to max. Mine have only 5 turns before hitting a substantial stop. I have switched to heavier progressive forksprings from Wilbers and I need to add a little more preload since my sag measures 32mm/44mm (unladen/laden). Is there likely something wrong with the hardware on my forks, or does anyone else with one of these models really have 15 turns of preload adjustability? ADVthanksANCE -Jack

>>I'd look first for oil contamination of the plates, from engine or trans oil. Since I still have warranty left, perhaps I'll get OC Motorsports to give it a look. Thanks -Jack

How do you attach that thumbnail view of an image? I'm html-challenged. -Jack

The clutch on my 2004 Le Mans feels really weird compared to how I remember the clutch on my 2002. I'm pretty sure that there's air in the line, but it has a really bad feel to the actual engagement. It just feels weak as the clutch starts to grab, and it chatters if you try to slip the clutch as you pull away on an uphill slope. Anyone else have a similar problem? ADVthanksANCE -Jack

>>"total spiritual creaminess" Isn't that what we all want? Thanks for the perspective, though. I totally agree with you that just switching to the lower viscosity fluid along with the spring change will likely get me 90% of TSC (total spiritual creaminess). Next last 10% probably comes with a huge price disparity. I had .95 non-progressive springs and an Ohlins out back on my previous V11 Le Mans, and it was pretty damn good. This one should come out better due to the upgraded Marz units in front. Ya figure? Phlegm at Eleven. -Jack

This is on a 2004 Le Mans. Ok, I know I'm going to replace the springs with something stiffer, but what's the most cost-effective fork damper upgrade besides a fluid change to lighter viscosity? If it's Ohlins, I'll just have to bite the bullet and do that, but is there anything that's reasonable for less money? ADVthanksANCE -Jack PS: Just what year is this bike anyway? I have pictures downloaded from guzzi_usa a while back of a red/black Le Mans just like mine that says 2003 is the model year. My title says 2005. Is the model year determined by the build date on the frame? I'll look mine up the next time I take off the tank.

>>BTW, what gear were you using for the asphalt surfing? I was wearing: Belstaff waist-length ballistic jacket (which was destroyed) Shoei something-900 (also destroyed) Prexport boots (scuffed, but still usable) Dainese gloves (scraped up but still usable) First Gear leather overpants (scuffed, torn pocket, still using them). >>PhotoBucket I'll give them a try. -jp

>>"hosted" jpg? No, I just used the Add This Attachment button at the bottom of the message edit window. Apparently, that does not work. Is there any other way besides using a hosted image link? -jp

Crash details: I was in the HOV lane at twilight and came over a little rise to find a car sideways in my lane. I found out later another car had swerved into the lane of the now-sideways car and forced a drastic manuver to avoid the incoming car. I changed lanes to the right to go around the sideways car and as soon as I got to the back of the car, I saw the backup lights and the car backed into me and took me off of my bike. The car's bumper hit my Le Mans amidships, just behind my left knee and put a very distinct bend in the middle. The bike slid on without me and slid into the back of another car. I was extremely fortunate in that no other cars ran over me as I slid unconscious down the freeway. To make a long story finally end, I had no lacerations anywhere on my body (which led to the ER staff on a fruitless search for internal injuries), a broken rib, and an AC separation on my left shoulder. Pretty light damage under the circumstances. I was up and riding my KTM Duke within three weeks or so. The Le Mans was totalled, of course. It had a bent swing arm, bent frame, lots of body work rash, and broken fins on the left cylinder and head. I never realized just how much I had been missing that bike until I took a test ride on this new bike. It's good to be back. -Jack PS: I added a picture attachment to my original post, but I don't see it. Any thoughts?

Hello folks. I have just returned to the ranks of Guzzi ownership with my purchase on Saturday of a really nice 2004 Le Mans. This is my first Guzzi since my beloved 2002 Le Mans was totally in April 2003. I have been riding a BMW 1150GS in the interim and after riding my new Le Mans, the GS feels lifeless. It's great to be back on a Guzzi again. Now, let the upgrades begin! Ride safe and WEAR YOUR GEAR! -Jack

>>Then seal the spoke holes to make them tubeless. I can show you how. Please, do tell. Inquiring minds want to KNOW!! ADVthanksANCE -Jack

Anybody got one left over from a crash repair? I only need the left one. ADVthanksANCE -jp

I ran through a set of the 220's on my Le Mans in about 4000 miles. In retrospect, I did not like them nearly as much as the BT020's I replaced them with. ATTENTION Le Mans Owners: Using the 170/60 BT020 instead of that poser 180/55 that comes on the bike will result in far better handling overall with just a little quicker turn-in. Sadly, I only got about 300 miles on them before the accident. Ride well. Ride safe. WEAR YOUR GEAR! -Jack Price Glendale, CA 02 V11 Le Mans (RIP) 01 BMW R1100S 01 KTM Duke II 83 V50 III

--he makes his living selling this stuff Au contrere, Lex. Todd is not in the sales business, AFAIK, and I have found him to be totally straightforward and upfront in my many dealings with him in the past many months. I am sure that you could get direct answers to any specific questions you may have regarding EFI tuning with the DynoJet products from Todd through the email address on the guzzitech website. Ride well. Ride safe. -Jack Price Glendale, CA 02 V11 Le Mans (soon to be without dealer/factory support) 01 KTM Duke II (probably cause, even when parked) 83 V50 III (has actual brakes now)

Last night on the way home from the Superbike races in Fontana, the metal bracket that holds the dashboard on my Le Mans broke, allowing the gauge package to fall forward into the fairing. If this had been on a V11 Sport with no fairing at all, the whole dash would have been hanging by the speedo cable. It had been wobbling a little more than usual, and I thought that the rubber mounts were failing, but it turns out to be the metal bracket that is screwed into the top triple clamp. Fortunately, a cargo net got me home and to work today. I will be calling my dealer to see what they have to say when they open again tomorrow. Anybody else seen this? Ride well. Ride safe. -Jack Price Glendale, CA 02 V11 Le Mans 01 KTM Duke II 83 V50 III

How about if you switch the risers left to right and mount the bars behind the fork legs instead of in front of them? That's exactly what I am going to do with the Tomaselli's I have. Ride well. Ride safe. -Jack Price 02 V11 Le Mans 01 KTM Duke II 83 V50 III