OldButNotDead

SOLD! Happy to see this old girl go to a good home and appreciative new owner Kevin, who has some interesting plans for evolving his stable of Guzzis. Kudos to Jaap for keeping this community going, and all of you talented people of seemingly infinite patience for keeping these magnificent machines alive. --Andy

Hah! I just lectured a 20-something today about the value of learning to enjoy fantasy without feeling the need to implement. Or regret not implementing. I say muse away - you've earned it! Silly old me has been fantasizing about doing track days At this point, I need one reliable and low-maintenance but not completely boring bike for curvy backroads. Peppy cheerleader sounds about right. Not as visceral or exciting as the V11, but still helps to clear my head and get my yah-yahs out. Thanks.

This just happened, so I may need to update garage signage. The V11 is still here/for sale and even so, I occasionally experience seller's regret

After 21 years with my V11 Sport it's time to move on. I lack the time, space, and dedication to maintain it and I'm wanting something lighter for my occasional backroad rides. The good: one adult owner, most of the usual V11 tweaks/fixes/upgrades and regular maintenance have been performed, strong low-mileage engine (about 21,500 mi) runs well, nearly roadworthy, and it's got the looks and feel of that raunchy girl from high school. Sale will include a good number of new and used spares and consumables. The bad: cosmetically rough, non-functional speedo/odometer, and it's got a clutch (or clutch actuation?) issue that I don't understand. It's initially ridable when cold, but begins misbehaving in an erratic/intermittent way as it warms up. The clutch slave was recently dealer serviced to no avail, so I'm opting out. I think that there's a good opportunity here for someone who wants a potentially easy project or near complete parts bike. $1200 OBO; local pickup only. PM if interested.

At the risk of promoting thread drift...the RE Cafe and Guzzi V7 models have crossed my mind, but I wasn't sure the relatively minor weight reductions would be worth the loss of oomph. I hadn't gotten as far as considering weights with modifications. The sexy Triumph Thruxton appeared on the radar, but $$$. Because the local Guzzi dealer also carries RE, test rides should be easy, but my time / energy began sublimating post-pandemic and I've not been yet. I did just buy a charity raffle ticket for a V7 (Cadre Cycle, mentioned on WIldGuzzi)

Given all the great input, I'm guessing my main clutch issue was resolved with a new slave cylinder piston seal, but I'll also want to revise some maintenance practices. Thanks for all the suggestions! I have changed out all the brake/clutch fluid every year - using a Mityvac to pull fluid out through Speedbleeders. I assumed that if there's little/no air in the system when I start, and I don't run the reservoir dry, it should be all good. I do try to re-bleed if it feels noticeably spongy. My current thought is that the tacky sealant on the Speedbleeder has dried out, letting some air enter, giving the feel of a broader clutch engagement/disengagement zone. If I find the clutch well-behaved next season, I'll plan to install a remote bleeder for the clutch slave, and extend my relationship with this beast. Longer term, it's not clear that I am enthusiast enough to continue fighting the increasingly demanding maintenance battle that will be needed. I have dallied with the idea of moving to a more casual relationship with a new Triumph 400 that's 150 lbs lighter, and in concept might provide a similar joy of movement.

Makes sense Doc, thanks! I'd forgotten that the engagement screw exists. When I got the bike back from Cadre, my initial feeling was that the clutch engagement zone had somehow shrunk, and less lever travel was needed to go from a fully disengaged to a fully engaged clutch. I was having a tough time modulating the slip-zone. That improved when I re-adjusted the CRC roll-a-click lever to better fit my hand, but more investigating will be needed. In principle, I don't think either the lever position or the engagement screw should affect the "width" of the clutch engagement zone, so long as they are set to operate outside the limits of the hydraulic system.

Brilliant! I wonder if a variant of this general approach could keep my 87yo dear-old-Dad from peeing all over the floor vs in the toilet? Doc - were there characteristic symptoms when the clutch master cylinder spring let go? I'm not convinced my issues are resolved, so will file all these suggestions away for future reference.

Will need to consider this if I run the reservoir dry while bleeding. Not hard to do.

I believe so - my clutch slave has never been serviced, so if you say it came with a Grimeca, then this kit includes a seal that fits the 30mm piston. It's flat and measures something like 3.5 x 3.5 mm. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-14242-d351783.aspx

A few months ago - after 20 years and about 21,000 mi - I lost the clutch on my 2003 V11 Naked. No power to the rear wheel with bike in gear and the lever fully released. I wasn't particularly surprised, since clutch engagement had been uneven and grabby earlier in the season, and finding neutral with a hot engine has been difficult the past couple years. After spending more than a little quality time reading this and other clutch threads, I realized that my limited time, space, and skills weren't up to this task. Given the increasing challenges associated with maintaining this old bike, I considered selling it for parts, but then contacted the good people at Cadre Cycle, who agreed to take it on. Enzo suggested the clutch slave cylinder was at fault, and Tim found a potential seal from an auto application, so I decided to chance a repair. They swapped out the swingarm bearings while it was off, so glad to have that done. I've not had much opportunity to test it, but got out for a short ride last week, and it was well-behaved. We've got cold and snow already, so I won't know more until next season, but at least there will be hope during the cold dark winter that when hibernation ends, I'll have a V11 to ride. Doc's clutch tribulations and the rally to assist with spare slaves inspired me, so I ordered a couple of seals (Dorman D351783) to aid the cause. Doc, if you'd like a couple seals that *might* fit your spares, shoot me a PM and I'll send them along.

I had a few made up when a rear bearing failed after only 3 years. I do still have a spare made from this: https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/carbon-steel/1-od-x-0-095-wall-x-0-81-id-carbon-steel-round-tube-a513-type-5-dom/pid/7564 I don't recall flanges, but can say that I installed one in 2006 and haven't had any bearing failures since.

I've likely got a spare (I had several made years ago) for the cost of shipping. Can check if you like.

This looks to be sorted, so thought I'd post an update. My issue was a slow fuel seep from the fuel level sensor, which had never been off the tank since I purchased the bike new. Gas was collecting under the rubber boot, so after seeing the photo Chuck posted, I suspected it was seeping through the potting or one of the mounting flange-washer-sensor mating surfaces. I guessed that the leak would be less localized if the tank-flange interface (ie - the o-ring) was the problem instead. I pulled the sensor and found the aluminum washer at the base was pretty cruddy. Likewise there was material caked onto the rubber of the sensor housing itself. Guessing this was mostly calcium phosphate from EtOH-water issues. I also found that the sensor had come unglued from its rubber housing, perhaps because the rubber had swollen over the years (see photo). The mounting flange and o-ring had a bit of caking as well. I cleaned everything up, re-installed with Permatex non-hardening liquid gasket, and leak tested O/N with a 1/2 tank of gas. Next day…TA-DA! No leaks…what a hero! I filled the tank on my victory ride, and sure enough the wife complained of gas smell in the garage-adjacent TV room that same night. I'd had enough. I bought a new sensor and a tube of the reputedly magic Hylomar, drained and dried the tank, and brought it inside where I could work on it patiently. All mating surfaces got skim coats of Hylomar, which was allowed to dry thoroughly at RT before assembly. It's been about a week with no leaks. I don't know precisely why the old one was leaking, but decided I'm ready to move on and live with a little more mystery in my life.

Much obliged gentlemen. Regarding removing / reinstalling the tank multiple times, hanging it partly full to ensure no leaks, installing a new o-ring and blue-goo, eyeing a new sensor on Ebay....guilty. I've never had the sensor out of its mounting fixture, so it's time to check that washer. Seems like a likely culprit given the pooling into the boot. Any harm in applying a thin coat of non-hardening fuel-resistant liquid gasket to the washer (assuming it's intact) ? The upside is that this leak pushed me to finally get some EtOH-free gas and groom the rubber pucks. Just anuther day with the V11.

Super helpful to have this documented! My V11 developed a fuel leak while it was in storage this past winter, and I've localized it to a slow seep at the fuel level sensor. After leaving it overnight, I peeled back the rubber boot, I found it filled with fuel. So, I'm wondering if the leak is somehow through the body of the sensor, rather than past the screws or around the o-ring. I can't recall any mentions of this, but maybe someone else has or has ideas about whether it's likely or repairable. I've got blue goo, but the weeping continues....

I've used Convertibars for some years - got them when the bike was being used both for track days and casual riding. https://www.convertibars.com/ These days all that adjustment range lets me fold the bars in for Winter garage storage.

All knowing all seeing protector of all things V11, Doc, is correct on multiple counts again. That system is long gone. If it's any consolation, performance wasn't nearly as spunky as I would have liked, it made the bike sound like a car, and it scraped in hard right-handers. --OlderButStillNotDeadHoweverDumfoundedAtTheCompleteFaceplantCommonsenseHasTakenAndPrayItGetsBackUpASAP

I was recently inspired to try and improve my headlight. Didn't succeed, but thought my experience might be useful to share. The deflector inside my original shell came loose some years back, and though I've been able to wire it back in the sort of vicinity of its proper location, the output and pattern is silly poor. I tried a 7" Grote sealed beam from Summit Racing (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gte-90941-5), hoping it could be adapted without too much fuss. I found that some fuss would been needed. I may eventually go that route, if I can convince an engineer buddy to design and 3D print an adapter. In the meanwhile, I'll be sticking to daylight riding. I would be happy to hear of a source for a fully intact OEM unit.

Thanks to all for suggestions; in the interest of doing what's necessary, but nothing more....elegance beckons. And in keeping with Kiwi tradition, the verbal synopsis manages to turn that elegance inside out. No way no how would I still own this bike without this board.

The input is much appreciated; I've got an 03 Naked. I'm a hack at electrics (and wrenching in general), but having a 12 x 18 laminated C.Allison schematic and colored whiteboard markers to trace paths helps me muddle through. Will look into the gstallons approach. Unless and until KR nixes this, I think it's a plan!

I've wrestled with startus interruptus forever, but years ago *thought* I'd figured out that my bike had the earlier wiring. I recently checked and found no juice at terminal 30 of the starter relay with the ignition off (ala KiwiRoy's advice), so now know I have the "later" wiring. I'm looking at the Carl Allison schematic for the 2004 V11, with the understanding it may not be fully accurate. Maybe I missed this idea in the various threads, but my thought is to install a new relay - dedicated to handling the "lights dropout" switching. That would "purify" the starter relay by eliminating functions downstream of terminal 87A, so I could hotwire terminal 30 with a low resistance path, and not affect anything else. I would retain the by tapping into it and sharing The new relay would get wired with a terminal 85 trigger (shared by tapping into the starter relay) + a terminal 30 input and terminal 87A output - each pulled off the starter relay. I'm thinking implementation ought to be pretty straightforward, but am wondering if I'm missing something?

Dont be a girls blouse, and get on with it. Ciao A man’s got to know his limitations. So, I decided to be a big girl’s blouse. And also got on with it. Given the fear and trembling, I just didn’t see this as an “Either/Or” situation. I think it helped to raise the caliper up, as did a speed bleeder + pumping the pedal. Hand vacuum pump – not so much. Grateful for all the input – this board is the main reason my bike is still on the road.. Cheers!

Thanks for the offer! I sourced a new one from MG Cycle a couple months back, but have been procrastinating. Hopefully this will be easier than I'm anticipating; haven't done much wrenching the past few years. I have a speed-bleeder in the old caliper that I'll swap over, and a Mityvac, so this ought not to be too hard.