OldButNotDead

I stripped out one of the bolt holes on my rear caliper and dread swapping in a new one. Let’s just say I’ve had Fear and Trembling and Sickness unto Death trying to bleed air out of brake lines in the past. I was wondering about trying to move the caliper slightly above the rear reservoir to do the swap – to minimize getting air in the system. This seems possible by snaking the caliper and line under the swingarm and up the other side of the bike. Seems like I’d just need to remove the RH muffler to do that. Does this seem reasonable / helpful? Maybe someone has tried this for routine cleaning/bleeding?

Thanks Roy; your patience is seemingly endless. I downloaded the Test points, and other sketches some time back. Haven't been riding/wrenching much lately though; work demands have continuously increased the past few years. Ignition switch is now is next on my Guzzi todo list. I've printed a hardcopy and now just need to create the time and energy to get it done.

Sounds like it's time to stop neglecting it then. Thx!

I've also not played with the ignition switch; been scared of tamper-proof screws, explosive ball bearings and the like. I have had a occasional no-start issue that hasn't been addressed through a variety of other mucking about. Can I just thread some allen keys up in there, or is it best to remove some other items first for better access?

Got me some replacements here: http://vibrationmounts.com/Store.asp?Page=Products1.htm Found some in "Metric - cylindrical to 713kgf"

As already mentioned, Step 1 is to check if they are getting voltage - voltmeter or $5 test light will do. When mine stopped working, I found it was the horns. On my OEMs there's a wee small adjustment screw on the back side - just needed a turn or two.

Condolences; seems a stern punishment for a single incident.

Well documented issue: SPEEDO CABLE I've found Roy's suggestion to be effective (and much cheaper than the OEM alternative).

Just had my tank Caswell-coated by a local Ducati shop. They've done more than a few Duc tanks with reportedly good success. My tank was left to dry about three months before being brought in, and it had returned to near its original size. They had it media blasted and then rinsed it out thoroughly with a solvent (I don't know which). It got two coats of the Caswell epoxy and I just got it back on the bike. Time will tell, but for now, I'm just stoked to be riding again...

I tried setting up my V11 way back when, and eventually brought it to a suspension specialist. There's some art and feel that I didn't get from how-to guides. That said, the source I like best for diy suspension info is: Racetech

Some of us who are not detail oriented appreciate those of us who are Now you just need to reinvent Maxwell's demon to get the water out of the engine.

My vote too. Mayo in the bike or car = oil + water emulsion. I lived in Vancouver for a while and seem to remember a bit of dampness in the air on occasion.... I haven't noticed it in unopened oil, but can't say I've looked all that carefully; maybe direct this ques to the manufacturer? I'm going to predict you will find a way to fix this with an ingenious wiring modification

Yes, you can power it up from a new fuse or re-wire fuse 3 from a hot. Here's a mod for a 2000 Jackal Start Circuit Mods.pdf On my list for such time as the garage warms up. When it comes to the line between "inspired" and "unhelpful variability", Italian design often stumps me.

Damn it's nice being spoon fed; thank you. I just dug out my CA schematic and noticed it's for a 1999 model. My 2003ish owner's manual tells the other, less happy story. Sorry if I've missed this, but is the solution a fused hotwire to pin 30 on the starter relay? I occasionally need to thumb the start switch more than once, and none of my attempts to rejuvenate switches/contacts/starter have cured it.

This topic came up recently and that thread is here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16928&view=findpost&p=181275

I've heard of this being done (on plastic Ducati tanks?) to prevent the tank from absorbing EtOH and swelling. Apparently, left dry, tanks will shrink back to their original size after a few weeks and can be coated. I was planning to do this over the winter, but now ???

Valeo. My experience was similar to yours, minus the blowing fuse. After the new one went in, I took the old one apart, but couldn't find anything wrong with it.

I believe I have just learned the secret to life. Thank you Cliff. I've installed a starter from EME; worked for me

Just noticed that it's been 2 years since I changed my fork oil. Everyone's taste is different, but afte upgrading to 0.95 kg springs (I'm ~165lbs), I've been happiest using 7.5 wt oil and a 100mm air gap.

Appreciate the input Roy; was hoping you'd show up.... Years ago I put in a std 5-pole (30A?) automotive relay with a fused hot wire direct from the battery. Don't recall all details of how it's wired, but should know shortly. I pulled the tank of this morning, and so far have checked that the ignition switch is working properly. Will print your questions and take them out to the garage. I sure hope Carl Allison accumulates some good karma every time I unroll his blessed diagram ! EVENING EDIT: not sure if I should be embarrassed or angry. I assumed that all these 4 (or 5) prong relays are standard the world over. I FINALLY looked at the side of the (Hella) relay I popped in to "repair" my horns. Turns out, though the terminals are numbered the same, their positions are swapped. WTF? thanks for listening! I guess the upside is that I swapped out the oil breather hose while I was in there....

I recently noticed my horns not working. I’d run a hot wire and relay to drive these a few years ago, so guessed the relay went bad. Swapped it out today, and still no horns, but some twilight zone stuff I’m at a loss to understand. With the ignition key in LOCK or OFF, a press of the horn button causes the horn relay to click. No horns, so I’m thinking I will need to check wiring between the relay and the horns. BUT…why is the relay (driven off the original horn wire) even being activated with the key in the LOCK or OFF positions?? Now it gets weirder. If I turn the key to ON, pressing the horn button no longer causes the horn relay to click, instead the oil and alt idiot lights come on. Otherwise, the bike seems to function normally. The last electrical work I’ve done was to swap some bayonet-style lamp holders into the instrument cluster. Any takers?

It's a kind of press fit; be gentle as it's possible to rip the anchors out of the pad. I'm pretty sure I had the same "stupid" question some years back and eventually stumbled onto this *feature* accidentally. Living my life by tenacity or stupidity: at this point I'm rarely able to differentiate.

My tank has a fat vinyl pad inset into its top. It acts to trap water that vibration + wind can dislodge. Sounds like it's only a possibility if you wash this thing.

The numbers are less compelling than the integrated experience. I suggest: get a stand, pull the wheel, grease the nipple. It's a head-scratcher even with the wheel off, but can be done. For more ideas, check this thread from the Refersence Section > How to... GREASY NIPS You will need a stand for servicing this bike. You will need to service this bike if you wish it to remain roadworthy. Have fun !

Freaking AWESOME? Exactly what I imagined myself doing, but was too bloody lazy? A good deed that will in all probability not go unpunished? Deserving of at least a few pints? Not as good as it could be, since I will need to print and laminate it myself? Cheers!