OldButNotDead

the electric petcocks seem to have a very bad reputation; got one of those?

Ready to let go of my Quat-D Ex-Box exhuast system. I had purchased this from RossoPuro for my 2003 V11 Sport; I think it will fit all V11 variants, but it's up to you to determine this for sure. Was ~$1000 new, about $1200 last time I looked, and don't think they are available any more. I'm looking for $450 + shippping. I rode with this system for a year or two, and was happy with the weight savings and mass centralization, look,and sound. The system is complete (port adapters, headers, muffler, cat, springs) and fully functional. I got a local guy to make some mufflers with good ground clearance, so it's time for the Ex-Box to go. It could use a little TLC. Before use, I would replace the rivets in the homemade block off plate, as it was beginning to rattle when the system last came off the bike. Alternatively, you could just weld it shut. If you're looking for pretty, some people ceramic coat these things,and that would bring this one back most of the way towards a new appearance. The damaged areas are shown in the photos. Find some tuning data here: Link Weight and fitment info here: Link You Tube video (not mine)here:

Lucky lucky bastard. You can be on a chairlift at a pretty decent local area in 30 minutes from downtown - if you have that inclination. Vij's (more upscale) or Vij's Rangoli (kind of bistro-like) should not be missed if you enjoy Indian food. There's a ton of other places as well, but the food he makes is unique and outstanding in my experience. They sell takeout from the bistro if you're short on time. Tojo's is a well regarded (but pricey) place for sushi. I've had good experiences here as well. Great fish & chips at Mr. Pickwick's on Denman downtown; Falafel King, also good, is just down the street. Finally, Granville Market is a huge covered market with a pretty good variety of foodstuffs; vendors cater to both locals and tourists, and I'm salivating thinking about all the varieties of smoked salmon you will find in the fish stalls there.

55F here today; lesson learned. 20W50 + near freezing = slow cranking. I'll finish this season out with a 5W40.... The warm weather sure did bring out the motorcycle fags...

Don't know if you've got the same iteration as me, but mine's on the bench at the moment...here's a plate I riveted in place of the cat: And here's the cat: Hope that helps.

You kin try this un: QuatD_Aug_07.djm Made for a 2002, open airbox, same valve settings. Individual cylinder mapping, smooth - like butta. Curves were posted way back when.

Dan's right; I tried just a solenoid first, then popped an entire new starter in. I'll rebuild the old one over the winter and have a spare. I had the battery load tested today, and if we believe the man at Autozone - the battery is fine. That leaves me with tricatcent's suggestion - cold thick oil. I orginially dismissed this, since I've had the bike six years and it's not happened before. Then I realized I moved to a 20W50 (Amsoil) this spring. Up until then I had been using a 15W50 (Silkolene) and was trying to save some $. My last ride was at 36F (2.5C), so thick oil is sounding reasonable at this point. I'm guessing that the starter is going to spin a lot faster on a warm bike, but won't get to test that till the weekend. In the meanwhile, I'm off to order some lighter oil...

This is an interesting idea. It's due for a change anyway, so I'll put that on the current idea list. Nevada's gone metric ? I put a new battery in the multimeter and found: 12.8 V between battery terminals - ignition off 12.2 V between battery terminals - ignition (& headlight) on 10.5 V between battery terminals - engine cranking 0.2 V between battery hot terminal and starter - engine cranking 0.3 V between starter and battery ground terminal - engine cranking 10.2 V across the starter - engine cranking I'm going to guess these numbers are pretty good, and that means the next step is a battery load test?

Thanks to everyone for your input! I can't answer any of the voltage questions since both multimeters have dead batteries, and dealing with those are first on the todo list. Will post back once I've done some troubleshooting and sorted this out (or not). I better get it done soon, if I'm going to get any more riding in this season... Ciao!

Couple weeks ago I got the "press the starter / get a click /no start" symptom. After a couple of tries, it would fire right up and run fine. My relays are swapped, gel battery relatively new, and charging system operational. Also have dealt with all the interlock wiring... I guessed a bad starter solenoid, so swapped it out for a complete new one from Euromoto Electrics. No change in symptoms. So, I cleaned and dressed the kill and starter switches. No change. So after searching here, I next guessed "starter disintegration" and swapped in a new one. No more clicking. BUT... ...now it's turning over way slowly. Partially drained and recharged the battery, with no change. I think this means I've got resistance on the hot end or resistance on the ground end, or a combo of both. Am I missing other likely possibilities? Is there anything I need to do to ensure the new starter is properly grounded? It didn't occur to me during install that I might need to worry about that. I plan voltage drop testing, but thought I'd check in here before I get started (it's getting cold and dark in the garage these days). Unrelated note: if there are any Pynchon fans out there - Moto Guzzi reference in the new novel !

Maybe the petcock issue is incidental? Any chance it's a thottle position (tps) issue?

glæde sig ved den køre As an occasional friend used to say; be well, and I'll see you when I see you. I have one of those watches, and it joins me on special occasions. It also forms an essential part of my guzzi-related memories, and I deeply appreciate your contributions - particularly as they reinforce my good memories of Danes and Denmark. Bon voyage & Ciao!

I've owned both. I liked the FBF sound better (twin motocylce vs muscle car) , but preferred the looks, weight savings and centralization of the Quat-D. Unfortunately neither system provided enough ground clearance, and I recently sold the FBF cans. Debating whether the Quat-D should go next....

Clearly a gravitational inversion design spec from the factory - just not needed when the bike's ridden in the southern hemisphere. Of course, if some intrepid fettler had added an inverting field generator to the bike, it would probably be a good idea to get that valve back on.

I recently moved to a Diablo Strada 170 on the back (Diablo front), and am pleased with the easier turn in. I've been doing changes on a manual machine and found the 170 significantly harder to mount. Ended up bringing that wheel to the shop....

Great. Another joy of growing old - my aging tank appears to be swelling and getting longer - no viagra needed. I thought I was hallucinating when I removed, then replaced my tank for the first time this spring, and had to push it forward really forcefully to get the rear mounting holes aligned.

Reviving an old thread to thank people for their past input and add my for the Electrosport ESR510 voltage regulator. I've had flakey / variable voltage over the past year or so, and improved wiring, connectors, and fusing for the charging circuit-- as people have suggested. Finally had the generator light flicker on at idle after the last outing, and decided it might be time to install the spare regulator that's been waiting in the wings. It needed some finning removed to fit, but was otherwise a simple installation and...we've got ~12.6-14 V with the motor running. Nice. Looks like the original has a bit of a crack in the case:

or...buy my used FBF oval carbon cans for less! PM if interested.

I tend to agree with JRT. The usual bolt-on/plug-in fixes that improve linearity of power delivery will also gain you some small measure of additional oomph. Beyond that, it's diminishing returns and the main reward seems to be the pleasure gotten by the process. I don't think I've seen examples of gains of more than ~10-15%. Here's one example: RippinRosso

Need a base, as the bar pivots around a spindle that's inserted through the wheel. I bought a cheap one from Harbor Freight.

Well, I dunno if your tyres is like my tires, but I dearly love this thing: http://www.nomartirechanger.com/product/show/6

Yeah, yeah, very impressive and all. I'm sure the guy thinks he's hot shit. Of course the main thing is, if I'm considering this, will I need to adjust my sloppage plate and cush drive?

It seems a lot of his energy has been spent trying to convince people they have some common interests, and that working cooperatively is something to be valued. I think he's trying to make the argument that freedom can mean making choices that lead to a better quality of life for more people. We've been using the premises that the highest good is winning, the role models are rich, corporate profits should be a universally applied metric for decision making, and that might makes right. It seems reasonable to attribute some of where we are now to those attitudes. Particularly interesting to see how export of that culture has affected mindsets and conditions in developing countries. Only time will tell if he's can be effective, or whether we'll see a decrease in federal mendacity. I do find it encouraging that we have a leader capable of complex thought and expression.

I wouldn't call the Convertibars ugly; utilitarian maybe? It's the functional flexibility that does it for me - far outweighs consideration of appearance. I agree that if you want a more upright (though largely non-adjustable) posture, a handlebar would be a nicer look. Converting via Ballabio or Cafe Sport bits is doable.

http://www.convertibars.com/ Love mine. I'd guess a search on "convertibars" will return mostly