OldButNotDead

My watch is outstanding, but I haven't really gotten around to using it to "tell time" yet. Is anyone using it for that? In fact, I'm a bit "concerned" that its performance might not be optimal, so I've decided to defer using it to tell time - until I get it sorted. Has anyone figured out how wear and tear on the leather band/crystal/little itty bitty parts inside could be minimized by application of: special lubricants, alloys, cushions, electrical fluxes, or accelerating forces sufficient to stop time? Likewise, does anyone think I could improve performance sufficiently to humiliate guys with lesser watches? Perhaps I just need to incubate it where the sun don't shine?

I had Rich Maund ( http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=115427 ) do my seat. Overall review: I do find significant heat retention by the gel when the bike sits in the sun. Hot summer days include a white towel over the seat between sessions at trackdays. All considered though, I'm pleased with the change. I suppose it may come down to whether you prefer hot nuts or numbnuts.

I'm quite sure that I didn't. If one was compelled to fret over esoteric performance fineries, the stuff of baloney and blarney , I'd recommend doing so at: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ost&p=89633

Back-up: dyno testing my (custom mapped) system showed a very linear delivery and top end peak, identical to a performance (Ferrachi) 2-2 system. I won't mention the lower peak torque. Not just Tech Topics: my understanding is that discussion of "esoteric performance fineries" is this Forum's raison d'etre.

PRETTY bike BFG!! The ebay Quat-D looks like the one I got a couple of years ago. My top plate had a cat attached (road version). I pulled it out, and made a new top plate. It does stay put with rivets, IF you use stainless steel and NOT aluminum ones. Welding is the way to go if you want a more permanent solution. My experience has been that the "Performance" label really only applies to "visual performance" and mass reduction. These topics, and effects on engine performance, clearance, and fitment issues have been discussed at length in past threads.

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Nice. In 2006, we stayed for a few nights a short ferry ride across the lake, in Bellagio - http://www.hc-bellagio.com/INGLESE/hotel.htm. Bit of a tourist town, but bearable. Some wires got crossed, and the hotel owner, who was fully booked, found us a place in some old lady's apartment in town. The family that own the hotel, the Borelli's, are terrific hosts. We happened to be around for World Guzzi days (3rd week of Sept?), and if that's happening this year, and if there's any way you can arrange to be there: do it! Getting to walk through the factory, see the wind tunnel, etc. was lots more fun for me than the museum alone would have been. Course if you don't have the option, and will be in town anyway, the museum is certainly worth an hour of your time: http://www.motoguzzi-us.com/museo.asp?lin=eng

My saga involved an initial swap of Ballabio handlebars/cables/lines for the original 2002 V11 Naked parts. This was early on, immediately after purchasing the bike in 2003 - before other options were available. We've got no hills here, and I hadn't yet heard of track days, so the clip-ons were just annoying. After discovering the joys of riding for sport, I wanted that capability back. When the Convertabars for the V11 came out, I bought just the clamps and flat bars, and exchanged them for the Ballabio handlebar. Looking at their web page now, I notice that the Convertibars "bars" have since changed. They are now adjustable in another plane - allowing downward angles for the racer types. I haven't done range-of-motion measurements, but some are given in the V11-specific installation notes found here: http://www.convertibars.com/InstallationList.cfm Likewise, I haven't shot photos, but here's a good one from the installation notes: If I was buying Convertibars now, I'd just buy the whole bloody kit (which includes lines and cables), to allow maximal range of motion. I don't see the point of going halfway, but that's my default attitude. I pretty much agree with all of dlaing's comments above. Definitely more vibration that the rubber-isolated handlebars; can't say I remember what the clip-ons were like. Barend weights + barend mirrors help. Takes me about 20 minutes to switch from high to low (or back). Cheaper than buying a track bike. At least until you drop it.

You have the option to buy Convertibars that are angled downnward, or you can choose to get the flat ones like I did. Either way , they offer a huge range of available positions. Way up and back for town and way down and forward for track. Did I mention I really like these things? I did replace my lines and cables using OEM bits.

Speaking with a current/past dealer sounds like a great opportunity to gather some realistic expectations about what it would actually mean in practice. Sad to say, enthusiam and competence are not always enough -- http://www.detroiteurocycles.com/ Many thanks to Jeff: having a local dealer with his level of integrity has been awesome!

I'm sorry you found this forum AFTER buying the bike, rather than the other way around. Sounds like you didn't do enough research before buying, and/or the dealer didn't honestly reply to your informed questions about GUzzi QC. "Enough" reseach in this case probably isn't all that much; sorting out a bunch of annoying crap on new bikes is pretty standard. Pretty reliable once sorted, but given parts/dealer availabilty, still NOT an easy child. If you're not feeling infatuated by the Italianess (love + hate + all in-between), I'd advise bailing somehow. I hope you figure out a way to get the ride you want. Good luck.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9425

Thank you for pointing this out BlfstGzi. I unfortunately have a full-time job, which keeps me occupied more than I'd like, and often prevents me from appreciating the full scope, depth, and tone of board content, particular for the back end of these technical topics. I'm just pleased to be able to nip in now and then - to help keep a battered and bruised thread going. Now it's back to the Hooters for me.

Proud papa! I well may have missed it, but I don't recall any references in all those pages to the fact that this is a documented "Guzziology" procedure. Odd no?

Well, this IS embarrassing. I only posted to hear myself speak, and shot my ENTIRE WAD!! Must...recharge...(gasp)....my...load. Please (gasp).....carry..on................without...me...(gasp). Awwww, OK, here's some sharing before I go back to being useful - "peon" is one who walks (rather than rides); while "pean" is a hymn of praise.

In the interest of being social and doing my bit for the community and thread.... You blithering eejit! Blah blah blah. Blah blah blah blah. Blah blah blah blah blah. I have vastly more experience and insight into this (and all other) topics and you have a distorted view of the essential nature of human beings and reside in a stupid part of the political spectrum. So piss off. HAH!

I also feel this is a CRITICAL feature, as is the recommended method for recharging the spring: Sorry honey, I can't go shopping with you, my watch needs winding....

+1.....

Sure, no worries. Winter provokes whatever OCD tendencies I have. BTW DL, and not to get you into a tizzy, but there's a chance I may wish to part with my QuatD at some point. I bought it for the ground clearance, but it turns out it scrapes in right-handers. If I can source a non-scraping 2-1 from RacerX or a recommended local fella, I might need to sell the Quat. Would be sad, since I do think it looks really cool. I dropped the bike last year, so it's a bit rashed, but I'm sure it would look great in a ceramic coat.

Yah, try working the plunger in hot soapy water, then WD-40 or similar. Can't say why, but this revived mine.

Yes unscrew it and plug the hole with a bit of paper towel to retain the tranny oil. Many discussions of this returned by searching on "neutral switch". You could try cleaning (vs. replacing) it; worked for me . See: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=neutral+switch

Flat for me. Didn't think dropped would be comfortable on the street, and we hit the track only rarely. DL - I've got a similar issue to yours - the sloped seat had me mashing my genitalia into the tank at every slowdown or stop . A cheap fix is to slap on some tank pads from Tech-Spec or Stompgrip; not pretty, but your testicles will no longer need to live in fear.

Loosing the appropriate pinch bolts allows the *fork tubes* to be repositioned. The top clamp stays put. Raising the forks effectively shortens them, quickens the steering and reduces straight-line stability. Lowering the forks does the opposite. As RH describes, the particulars will depend on things like yer weight, tires, current suspension setup, and riding style. I've got an 02 Naked and raised the forks ~ 1.2 cm to load the front tire and quicken the steering. My convertibar clamps are mounted underneath the top triple tree and still give plenty of height to the bars when that's what I want. I really like these things; I can switch from way higher to way lower than stock in ~5 minutes. My only complaint is the odd bar ID - most expanders don't fit well.

See the Kelly Baker carbon fiber glass option here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=460 Not cheap, but you could always bend up your own.

In this case, I don't think it's wise seek surety based on theory. Mandello seems renowned for mixing and matching lots of parts - no guarantee your XYZ-numbered bike doesn't have the "oversized boss" that has been associated with breaking springs. I think you're "probably OK" with a bona fide 2003, but the empirical route is safest here - get in and check if you want to know. I just swapped out the spring on my 2003 badged wrinkle-painted 2002 (10,000mi). Turns out this bike has the smaller boss, and the spring looked fine, but I now I have that knowledge, and enjoyed learning a new aspect of the bike. If you don't want to do it yourself, Detroit Eurocycles should be able to do this in an hour or two if they have a spring on hand.