GED 01

BEAUTIFYING PART ID SAY

ABSOLUTLY GUTTED,im selling my pride and joy , http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:IT&ih=002

i bought mine from here and painted it myself http://www.motomeccaspares.com/products/search.php

forgot to add i have taken the bike for a test run and after getting the adjustment correct the bike changes gear perfect,if not better,lever doesnt foul my foot nor the pork chop.and i no longer have to lift my leg up and down to change,just praying that it stops rainingin time for tomorrow,and im off to devils bridge

101% success finally did it ,got them how i wanted them,the initial bend of 40mm at the or near the mounting point of the gearchange lever equated to nearer 90mm at the toe almost the 4 inches i was after, the picture below show the bike in neutral also the distance between peg and lever,although its not the most accurate measurment and the last picture shows my foot on the pegs how i ride with metratech pegs fitted as mentioned the foot is more horizontal than with the standard setup,and if u can imajine moving the lever up 3inches how it used to catch my foot and cause problems

it was paraffin and not petrol so it works out cheaper to run,[u are from yorkshire]

i dont think so i tried to bend the end nearest the toe rubber and because of the material that was machined out it started to kink and buckle so anything other than solid alu i dont think it would work,but then again you could try

this problem has been playing on my mind ,i dont in fact never give up ,despite what advice ive been given ,so i decided to throw caution to the wind,and dug out my coleman camp stove [img and ive bent the gearlever if you look carefully ive managed about 42mm i could have got more but decided to wait until tomorrow when i will refit them again and see what best suits,ive also got the option of cutting 10mm out of the gear lever where it fouls the porkchop,so fingers crossed

im on holiday this week ,so i nipped into work [engineering] for advice and they were not very sold on the idea of heating the gear lever and bending it 50>100 mm ,and im not going to risk it so the original pegs stay on,the footrests i bought for £260 stay in a box in my garage collecting dust ,a complete waste of money,anybody considering purchasing these items in the future please contact me first,although they are of good quality ,and genuinley male the bike more comfy,they do have limitations.ie if like me you ride with your foot slightly down,then i fear you may have problems both me and john have had, i feel it would be expected of metratech to look into this problem, and warn potential purchasers of this problem and advise them as such ,,

hi john have you thought about heating them up,

hi john thanks for the reply,you say heat it up ,is it possible to do this safely,or is a hit and miss procedure,i dont want to wreck the pegs,if there isnt a solution to my problem then i would prefer to sell them on and try and recoup some money, how hot does the alu have to be ,would a blow torch suffice or oxy acetalene be re quired ,where would the best place to warm it and bend it be ...sorry for all the questions

hi ,ive spent the last 3 days with the pegs ,today i put the guzz ones back on ,ive tried every adjustment possible,but i can only lower the lever so far,see the pick of me pressing down on the lever that is as far as i dare go ,at this setting hitting 1st gear is 50% succesful and u can see the gear lever hitting the pork chop. its not a problem adjusting the lever its a problem that the end of the lever sits too high look at the pics again as i said the toe rubber is only about an inch lower than the foot rest ,i need it to be the same distance as the guzzi pegs,about 4 inches or at least 2 inches ,the only solution i can see is to cut somwhere on the gear lever grind a angle and re weld ,but the last 6 inches of the lever has hollow out areas which could be a problem to try and re weld and maintain strength,un less i cut nearer towards the rear of the bike near the footpeg, but i would like to know can you re weld aluminium and keep enough strength so the gear lever wont snap off when i change gear

hopefully u can see some pictures below showing the motra tech pegs in the neutral position and in first gear position [it is fouling the porkchop] compare to the 2 other pics of origional; pegs and see the differance in the space between the footpeg and gear lever,yes my feet do point down and there a alpinestars 13.5 or uk12

if you look at the pic you can see the distance in height between the footrest and the gear lever its about 4inches its that height for a reason i reckon moto guzzi found this being the best geometry to change gear johns motratech one are about and inch on maximum adjustment,which means i have to lift my leg to change gear and lift it again to put the ball of my foot back on the footrest at a 45 outwards angle ,some people may prefer this or its not a problem ,for me it is

making a new lever is beyond me ,and making a plate is somthing i have thought of,although i feel it may look untidy,another solution may b to cut the lever in half grind off enough metal to create a greater angle of the lever and have it rewelded but will the weldbe strong enough,aluminium welding is somthing i know nothing about ,

IVE JUST FITTED MY NEW FOOTPEG CONVERSION KIT and im a bit gutted,theres nothing wrong with the quality or what its suposed to do ,my bikes feels like a cruiser its that comfy ,no more knee ache ,but my problem and it appears a big one is the gear change lever /pedal just wont adjust downwards enough which means i have to ride with my toes on the pegs or with my foot at 45 degrees otherwise i hit a bump and im downchanging,also i have set the lever at its lowest point to try and alliviate the problem which has not really worked as the lever is fouling my foot [the gear lever is too high ],also down changing is ok from 6th gear to 4th but then i cant change from 3rd to 1st as the lever is now hitting the porkchop,i also have to lift my leg to down change gear,which isnt very good in mid corner,or for quick shifting,,,ive spent 2 days trying to sort it out and cant think of a solution other than to re fit the old pegs which i dont want to do as its unrideable for any distance due to the discomfort ,imho the gear lever should have a greater downward angle so it sits a good 50mm below the level of the footpeg,in neutral,as anybody else who has these fitted had similar problems and worked out a solution because at the moment my bikes unrideable and ive spent a weeks wages on these footpegs and i would prefer them to stay on the bike help please anyone

THANKS FOR UR HELP BUT IVE JUST ORDERED SOME OF THOSE FANCY ONES FROM MOTRATECH ,I CANT REALLY AFFORD IT BUT THEN AGAIN MY KNEES CANT STAND MORE THAN 25 MILES AND ITS REALLY SPOILING THE ENJOYMENT I GET FROM A REALLY GOOD BIKE,HOPE I WONT BE DISSAPOINTED CHEERS

HI I TAKE A UK SIZE 12 DO THE BUELL PEGS MOVE THE FOOT POSITION REARWARD ASWELL AS DOWN,DOES ANYONE HAVE A PIC CHEERS

CHEERS MATE IVE EMAILED ACTIONSPORTS AND ILL AWAIT THERE REPLY AS I GUESS THEY WILL BE A HELL OF A LOT CHEAPER THAN JERSEY HD

i really need to lower my pegs ,and i feel the buell pegs are the way to go ,ive done a search and read the posts but would anyone b good enough to tell me where can i buy them ,online ,i would prefer uk ,i have the part numbers ,but i always prefer to hear recommendations from other people cheers and thanks

checking the chage system is somthing i will have to check,next weekend probably,as for your other recommendations ive done them,and the conclusion was the engine rotates and better when conecting the battery direct to the starter,rather than using the button,useing the latter it either didnt start or was slow to rotate, but the plot thickens,i did the valves this morning,everything went to plan,until i came to start it,no neutral light ,but the bike started brilliantly,ticking over a lot better and less vibey,i put the side stand down and the engine cut out,its not supposed to do that ,its only supposed to cut out when you put it in gear ,and the wire that attaches to the neutral sensor also joins the small one which fits onto the starter motor,this was the wire i found to be slightly loose ,to which i tightened and i have had no trouble since february,till last thursday i feel i have 3 causes,the battery was slightly down 12.3volts,i think it took a hammering at the fuel protest constant beeping and headlights on @10mph not getting much of a charge up, very hot engine, may of played a part ,concerning the starter as mentioned previously,or generally causing havoc with the electrics somehow,im not sure and it seems as though the small black wire which i think runs from the ignition switch to starter to neutral sender may be loose somewhere

the existing earth strap is bob on one of the thing i checked b4.although if it goes wrong again its somthing i shall try,cheers

lol yeh sounds about right doc,to be honest ive been to the bike several times today and its starting brilliantly.just havnt got a clue what went wrong ,other than what was suggested about the starter over heating,bloody guzzi it has more mood swings than the ex wife

spot on ,,,,maybe im getting paranoid,or maybe its a case of ignorance is bliss syndrome,but to be honest after i re crimped the wire last february the bike been great ,until the old girl had a hard time at the fuel protest 26 miles doing no more than 10mph it was a hot day ,left to idle for 10min twice,she just wouldnt start after that unless bumped,and it took a day for the bike to get over it,it now seems [fingers crossed]its starting fine,and awaiting another 250 mile blast round the north yorkshire moors, as long as the guzz stays as it is,[starting]im not allowing myself to worry,if the starting issue becomes a regular occurance again as it was b4 i fitted the new parts,then i will worry,