ponti_33609

Hi, My Bike has about 6K miles now. I have had the same issue regardless of temperature. Always starts right back up after a stop light stall. Someone suggested to me that I try 2 things that seemed to have worked: 1. I ran a tank of gas with a product called SeaFoam (Suppose to clean out carbs, FI, etc) 2. Was told to shift at a bit higher rpm. Normally I use to shift at arouind 4,500 rpms, now I never shift at less than 5,000 rpms and usually try for 5,500. Was probably babying her a bit too much. I try never to cruise with rpm's anywhere in the 3,000's rpms, always somewhere in the 4,000's. I have not stalled again and its been about 6-weeks. Might be an easy try. With few miles, mine has certainly spent much of her life in the garage. I am trying as best as I can to fix that! Best of Luck, Bob

I did buy my bike sight unseen but trusted the seller who I knew indirectly. Really good pic's helps. Also, I do not believe it is unreasonable to ask the owner to bring to a bike shop/dealer....not necessarily Guzzi. For a nominal fee, many will tell you things like.....sounds ok, he didn't push it in, looks well kept, etc. Finally, I like the silver engines too.....everyone says the Ohlins are far superior.....I am however, not a good enough rider to notice the difference. Best of luck.......hope you end up with her! Bob

Hi - FWIW, I bought my 2000 with 3K on it nearly 2 years (Still has Bob

Hi - I am not sure if it is the same thing but I recently had a situation where my bike would cut out and stall when I came to stop at a traffic light. Not all the time but every 5-6 stops. I added a product called SeaFoam to the gas "in case" it might be clogged injectors. My bike has fewer than 6K miles so must have sat most of its life too. Anyway, my stalling has gone away. In addition to the SeaFoam, I have changed my driving habits a bit. I use to run between 3,500-4,500 rpms and shift between 4,000 and 4,500. I now run > 4,000 rpms and shift closer to 6,000 rpms. A few folks suggested I was babying her a bit too much! Best of Luck, Bob

Hopefully you will get use to this. I have had my V11 for nearly two years and this was the single biggest change for me after only riding a chain drive bike in the past. Took a while but you should develop smooth wrist action and will be non issue in a short while. Nice bike and welcome!! Bob

I had a simlilar response when I was looking for a guy to do tires but then did them myself. I kind of took it: shaft drive = BMW = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Hi - I am to World Spec's on the valves when I adjusted them..........can raise the RPM's slightlly......one more question..................where my bike has low/no real miles on it (it must have sat quite a spell before I got her), could a slightly clogged fuel injector be doing this to me too? Was thinking of throwing in some Sea Foam or equivalent. It is funny.....doesn't cut out all the time.......about 15-20% of the stop lights and then she starts right back up! Gap on plugs (new) are .028. Thx again guys for all your help, Bob

Hi - hoping someone can assist in diagnosing this with me? I have posted this on WildGuzzi as well. I have been experience a stalling issue with my 2000 V11 Sport. The issue occurs (becoming more frequently) when I come to a stop light. The bike is idling "normal" which is around 1,100 rpm's. It almost feels like one of the cylinders fails to spark and it just cuts-out. It is not a case where it is having trouble idling but just a "no-fire" and shuts off. It always restarts right up and it might not do this again for another 4-5 light stops. What have I done: 1. Adjusted the valves about a year ago. Wonder if they need it again or did I do something wrong? 2. Changed the plugs to see if that was the issue. The old plugs looked good....not black and sooty...slightly whitish. New ones did not resolve the problem. I was wondering if this could be a TPS issue but she idles well and runs well except for intermittent stalling after idling at the correct rpm's. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Regards, Bob

Hi Greg - noted and thx for clearing this up......I think I have heard folks refer in posts as delaminating. Another question then, the dimpling doesn't lead to paint peel does it? Pic's I have seen posted just look like dimples to me? Also, here is a link on it from WildGuzzi. http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic...90398#msg290398 Here is an portion: I rode my red 04 Ballabio yesterday and saw that it has two convex dimples on both sides. I called Moto International and they told me it isn't from tank suck because the dimples go out and not in. Instead it is from a chemical delamination of the tank (whatever that is.) They don't know how bad it will get. ARGGHHH!!! This really pisses me off. I called the main U.S. dealers and none of them have any used tanks and new ones are $1250 and out of stock... Any ideas? How bad will these dimples get? Is that really what caused it? From MPH Yep its ethanol, it may get worse, most dont. This isnt a Guzzi specific problem and its been flogged around here many times. The Nylon material is not made in layers, the bubbling happens due to plastic absorbing and reacting to ETOH. Every Multistrada on the road has had its tank replaced, then the new one did it again. Do a search on this site for ethanol related threads, but there isnt anything you can do about the tank Thx, Bob

Hi - Is the paint truly blistering or are you just seeing the circular dimples? I have been told that ethanol has a delaminating effect on our plastic tanks. Todd from MPH has said over at WildGuzzi the problem exists with many of the Aprilia tanks as well if I recall correctly. I think I recall a coating discussed but I think it was determined the coating needs to be applied when new or prior to paint I believe. As for me, I live in Florida too but I have not seen the dimpling yet but I do not have many miles on my bike. I am hoping for some real soon so I have a reason/excuse to buy on of these from www.THETANKSHOP.com! Regards, Bob

Hi Don, FWIW - If you do go the Corbin route....I have read where the seats are slightly different for the older red frames and the newer V11's. Additionally, I read that you need to make sure you get the correct one from Corbin or you will fight fitting it on. Regards, Bob

Does anyone know or have heard if there are many issues putting one of these tanks on? I read on the MGCycle site a quote "not for the meek". Sounds like there are fitting issues that need to be worked out? I love the look of these from the tank shop on our bike. Bob

I am not sure about the Aprilia's, but I did just add these to my V11 and I like them very much.

Sorry, and I was thinking of dropping collision this year too........$83.00!!!

Progressive - Tampa Bodily 100/300,000 $35.00 Property Damage $50 $14.00 Comprehensive $10.00 Collision ($250 Ded) $83.00 Roadside $10.00 SubTotal $152.00 Discount -$14.00 Total Paid in Full $139.00

Actually, I found it easy with the flexible angled connector you buy at Ace Hardware for $10.00 and grind it down with a dremel tool. I DID NOT remove the REAR WHEEL. Just rotate so the fitting is facing up, slide the connector thru the tunnel from the back and snap it on. I found I really needed to grind down the fitting more than I would have thought to get it to go on much easier. Also, once I placed the angled connector over the fitting I used the handle of a screw driver as leverage to pop the connector right on........took me about 2 minutes. Thx to Leafman for his e-mail help with this! Bob

Hi - Checked some old threads but didn't see this specifically. I am switching out my tank and saw that some folks have switched fittings to BMW #'s 13317659119 & 13317659120. Is that still a good option (quick disconnect) or are folks doing anything different? Next, Is there any sealant used to seal the fitting so it does not leak or is it just screwed into place? Thx, Bob

I think that is called a "Bike Chock". I think they are out of England. I do not think I have seen them in the US. Mostly Condor brand that I see. Bob

"look ma, no hands!" 3-Jacks, 1 bike!! The liquid stuff works well! Good luck

Hi, FWIW - I "dipped" the ends that fit under the pork chop bolts with that plastic dipping liquid you can by at Home Depot (in the states). The stuff that is on the handles of tools. It has done a nice job for me in not having dings from the use of the shop stand. Bob

Hi - I am actually looking at just the can fit-ment to the crossover. I am having someone "custom" making me a set of pipes and have a set off of a 2004. I have never mounted these to my 2000 bike but looks the same and they are going to use them as a fitment guide. I will let you know how I make out as things progress but wanted a 2nd opinion if the fit was unchanged. Bob

Hi All, I couldn't find it definitively listed on all the exhaust threads listed (apologize if I missed it) although I think I know the answer (yes)....hoping I can get a confirmation from someone. Are all year oem exhausts interchangeable? I believe they remained unchanged but need to make sure. Will a 2004 exhaust fit on a red frame and vice versa? Best Regards, Bob

In the US here. http://www.pjsparts.com/catalog/index.php?...=2a&page=14 :> Bob

I just bought a set of these beauties. Will post a pic when I have them installed!! Bob

Hi, I believe I have read hear (others will confirm or not) that the new style tanks are slightly longer and will not fit. Hopefully I am wrong but I do not think so. I also think folks have done some interesting things to that ugly rubber pad to make it less of an eye sore. You can also get a replacement pad if yours is a mess from the dealers that are on here. Here is the post that Al did but to a 03 to 02 tank. Says the shorter red-frame bikes might not work. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...t=0&start=0 Best of Luck, Bob