I like granny, ups, grainy films
http://pp.2i.cz/foto/2006/06/id8689-1151695440.jpg
http://pp.2i.cz/foto/2006/11/id8689-1162660629.jpg
etc
i don't like spot and flat films like Fuji Across ...
I use Louis 20W-50, four litres for 18€. Changing oil every 5000km and I am happy. On the bottle is written Mineral base. Friend is working in oil producing company, no fear about what is written on the bottle. He uses this same oil for his racing days on RSV1000. Same as do all his team.
If I'd be millionare, i would by special Agip 4T super trooper racing oil which gives power nearly like Yam R1RRR. But as I am not that chosen one i will use the Louis Oil
I never liked Fuji B/W mat. I love Ilford HP5+ --> Great one! and Kodak Tri-X 400. Those are very variable yet contrast and easy to work with. When we go to color negatives or slides - there is no competitor to Fuji
Yes. Grain, colour, the feel it is unique I do not use only polaroids, I am, in my 21yrs age still user of classic b/w material, enlarging prints at home and all the nasty things I just love to touch agfa baryt papers...
well Fuji still produce small number of FPC100 sheets but I am getting huge amounts of polaroids from ebay, safely storing them at home hoping they will last forevah
heh
I have the same issue. Around 3000rpm sudden backfire and small "plop" from engine. Higher and lower revs are no problem. Interesting is, when you accelerate continuously from 2000rpm to 5000rpm, no problem. When cruising in the city at around 3000rpm it seems that Ecu unit doesn!t know what to do. Engine run behaviour is unstable. This happens only at 3000rmp.
Can it by my KN filter in original airbox? Can it be my Leo Vince Exhausts?
TPB is done, free-run revs are 1200rpm. What next?
I have still issues with voltage regulator (this one I have is not charging well on low revs, on higher revs everything is ok).
Seller will sell only complete list of goods, I need just the passenger seat cover, side plates of fairing (that small thing above the pipes) and I would also take black V11 Le Mans under seat covers. Rest is up up to you...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...rksid=p3907.m29
ends in 9 days...
give it bigblock engine
give it spoked wheels
big tank
two adjustable rear suspension
better front forks than my V11 marzochiis
let it look so cool as now
make it big
and I am going to buy one right now.
I see,
I had dismounted all engine. Alternator was checked visually for any kind of error or damage after crash. Cables are not damaged, torn or rotten. Connectors are clear. Will better do it again. I will also install a permanent voltage meter to my cockpit to see what it is doing during ride.
Friend borrowed me his "sometimes overcharging regulator" from V11 '00. On freerun revs with lights switched on it gives 12,3V... After all day run (600km Oh god how much I've missed my bike) battery is fully charged on 12,85V. On 3krpm the regulator gives 13,65V with lights switched on or off. BUT Even that it is working, The red warning light goes on... Usually in low rpms... Where is the hidden dog?
Cables checked
Regulator replaced for working one
Alternator checked
what else can it be?
it remainds me of WW2 fighter taken down during war just 2km away from our village... Pilot didn't take a chance (no Arai helmet or Kushitani leather)... It was a P-51 I guess.
I have dealer close... 3 times higher prices that equiv, arrogant and unwilling staff
I have spoked with ducati dealer (it should be the same). He said, old regulators uses two yellow cables (just like mine), new ones uses three of them. I just need to know if it is compatible. Should I wait for a week for regulator from Stein Dinse for almost 170€ or wait a decade for my dealer. Ducati has these in stock...