tmcafe

My axle doesn't thread into the fork leg. It is hollow and threaded at the right end (not like in the manual) and is tightened by a large nut. I'm sure it was designed for bikes that have a damping adjustment screw on the bottom of the fork leg hence the notch at the opposite end.

Superb bike, mint, no issues ever, always garaged by first and second owner. Originally purchased and serviced at MPH Cycles in Houston. Guzzi windshield from MG Cycle. Brand new hard side cases, center stand, and engine guards, not installed. Bike currently at second owner in Utah. Most miles are from its trip from Houston! $5000 http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/IMG_3069_zpsefe20edc.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/BrevaDash_zpseb047c54.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/BrevaOdo_zps20bb8022.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/Breva3_zpsadb399a6.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/Breva4_zpscac4f756.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/Breva1_zpsd2259b03.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a84/tee_m/Breva2_zps0df25a7c.jpg

Seeking one in good shape (ends not worn out), e.g., from somebody who ditched their OEM pipes.

Thanks. I forgot which brand the battery is but it's the original one I got from new with the bike in Sep of 2007. I tried again today and I could hear the pump and the click from the starter relay (I pulled out and reinserted before that). I'll try to find my charger and charge the battery before I look into more.

I suspected it might be silly Thx.

Thanks. A good reason to find my meter in some of the garage boxes I haven't opened since I moved. As far as the handlebar and connection, I've had that problem before and the contacts have been replaced. But I'll try again just in case. I suspect it might be the voltage since the pump priming noise didn't come back on subsequent tries.

Granted I haven't started it for quite a while (late fall). Not on battery tender but light came on fine, gas pump noise (at least the first time I turned the key on), horn, turn signals, only no starter action whatsoever. I also checked the obvious kill switch. Does it need a whole lot more juice to turn the starter that the appearance of the other electricals? Sorry if it's a silly question.

As stated earlier, not having to remove the entire exhaust system to access the alternator was the likely cause behind a non-welded front x-over... Yes, forgot that. Although if it's just for doing the valves it's easier to turn the rear wheel to find the TDC.

True, a few more screws but easier to handle. Plus you see what shape they're in the headers' gaskets. Welding would get rid of the extra joint maintenance, but wonder if there's a reason for having the crossover mobile. Maybe it's just Luigi who wanted the crossover but didn't want to redesign the pipes to have the crossover welded, so he improvised the current system.

True, a few more screws but easier to handle. Plus you see what shape they're in the headers' gaskets. Welding would get rid of the extra joint maintenance, but wonder if there's a reason for having the crossover mobile. Maybe it's just Luigi who wanted the crossover but didn't want to redesign the pipes to have the crossover welded, so he improvised the current system.

Thanks. What was the reason you switched back to the original gaskets? Leaks? One thing I noticed after I installed the shims is that there's more vibration above 5k, I can feel it in the pegs. Maybe I should tighten the whole thing like in the example you mention. If the original gaskets are so $$, the shims are a better buy anyway.

Well, Guzzi may have been doing a styling exercise, trying to better tie in the new LeMans w/ the original, which had a hard-welded front x-over [that was a source of complaint due to the tedium of removing the one-piece header system]? I postulated on Guzzitech once that the front x-over would have had some f/x on the 4k rpm dip, & Todd's reply was that with a better collector & a PCIII it was unnecessary & more reliable to go w/ no front x-over. Not exactly my point [mine being a path of frugality], but the better solution, no doubt. I assume the PC and simple aftermarket headers work very well, though it's a more pricy solution than fixing the crossover. Curious if anybody went back to the OEM crossover gaskets.

I should have done my homework better. I vaguely remembered a discussion where Greg said that the crossover does have a role. In the same post, I found their shop's cure for the loose crossover joints: http://www.v11lemans...72entry140272 After all, there must be a logic to the fiber/graphite gaskets that prevent too much vibration in the headers and joints.