tmcafe

Glad it worked out. You may want to do Greg's "Swiss cheese" mod on the rubber wedges. I did mine and left half out as well.

There's some kind of ring seal between the ss plate and the cush drive (something like tan fiber). You removed that, right? Then you remove the cush drive with two diametrically opposed flat screwdrivers tips. Watch for the edge of the alu side of the cush drive. I taped my scredriver tips with duck tape. There's some kind of suction between the cast iron part and the one where the rubber pieces sit in, and the top part is also heavier. But once you do it, you realize it's a piece of cake.

Thanks Richard and gavo. The ring looks like steel (closest resemblance would be something like regular paper clip profile). There's no hole anywhere on the pin. That would have been the place for a cotter pin. I could drill a hole with a very fine bit (dentist ?) and safety wire it. But I'd rather figure out what exactly is with the pin and ring. The Brembo has some pdf instructions on how to change pads on the different types of bike calipers. On the type that is similar to ours, there's a clip, but it's shown as being extracted with needle-nose pliers from the outside of the pin.

Thanks BFG! If it's a ring, how's one supposed to deal with it, assuming it's there to keep the f'ing pin from sliding out? As it is, the 3/4 ring seems secure around the groove while it's loose enough to turn. But when I was trying to drive the pin out, there was no way I could wiggle it even a bit. Replacing the pin gives a little more control as the ring is on the outside. Still can't figure it out. If the caliper wasn't critical to safety, I wouldn't bother...

I have a metric set, but the specs I used (Micha's best recommendation) aren't among the blades, so I "cheated" by adding two blades to match. I wonder if some of the inch sets have a close match.

Holding the adjusting screw in place is bit awkward. I used a smaller adjustable wrench, but later somebody gave me a 1/8" mini wrench (Snap-on), which should fit the screw head.

After reading all the posts about the rear caliper troubles, I decided to give my caliper a good cleaning. Luigi's shop manual says drive out the pin with a punch and a hammer. Front calipers pins are visibly held in place by cotter pins, but I couldn't see such restraints in the rear. So in what's probably a Beavis-level decision, I took Luigi's word and hammered the pin out with a drift. I assumed it took forever because of the crud friction and perhaps some groove in the pin, activated by the spring. Turned out the pin did have some kind of clip. Here's what's on mine (kind of like a ring about 3/4 circumference of the groove it sits in): Also cleaned both pin and spring as best I could but they're both stained (surface is smooth, they're more like discoloration patches): Pads were fine; pistons didn't seem to have any crud, but gave them a good cleaning with brake fluid anyway (didn't want to use brake cleaner since smb said it may f up the seals) So here's the puzzle (sorry if it's moronic ): WTF is with that ring? Was it some "R" clip that got f'd up? Can it be replaced with a real or makeshift? Is that blotchy look of the spring and pin okay? Also (not directly connected), why does the rear pedal have a slight play downward (it doesn't fully return to the top position, but I can pull it up for a few mm of play). I've seen a solution with a spring on the M/C actuation rod (?) Many thanks for suggestions.

Man, that sucks, but glad you're okay. Check out ebay, there's a set of footpegs (and two valve covers). For the small list, they're easy. Moto Int'l must have them all (spark plug cables will be NGK). You've got some good tips and help above. Chill out, the Coppa will be back on the road.

Northbound on Alvarado, around mid-day. Hard to miss despite traffic. Anybody?

Ooops, my bad, I meant pedal pivot.

¡Muchas gracias, Sr. RH! Will do as advised. Clutch pedal has a big (10?) long Allen bolt--which must be where Tracy Martin (guzzitech) installed a zerk for greasing with a grease gun and bolt removal.

This must be a dumb q, so my apologies in advance. I'm looking at greasing a couple spots mentioned here that aren't in Luigi's manual , you know, the rear brake pedal and clutch. Here's where I'm a bit confused: Brake: is it the rear brake pivot as usual? (protect from rust, easy return of pedal). If so, since there's no grease fitting, pivot would need to be removed. Anything to watch for? Clutch: some have mentioned the splined actuator. If that's the case, Greg said to leave it alone, so I won't touch it. If it's just the clutch pedal pivot, same: removal, what to watch for. Thanks!

True, but see the above posts, e.g.: Cars vs. Guzzis

Here maybe? (and in other posts on Guzzi forums): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=143924Btw, I found Elf XT Tech 10-50 m/c oil, all PAO 100% synth, SG rated, for smth like $8.5/liter best price I've seen for a Euro oil of this (advertised) quality

I guess one other way to look at the post-SG API ratings is that they have become more "specialized" (this term is used in Guzziology and it makes sense). Bottom line is what's better for cars can be much worse for motorcycles. Also when in advertising their "better" products the big companies think cars, not motorcycles--who cares about a tiny percent of the market. For now I'll stick with SG.

Belfastguzzi, Thanks for the very interesting info. If that's the case, it would mean for instance that: SH is better than SG ? Then why would top shelf m/c oils still put SG on their labels? (e.g., Amsoil, Mobil 1). Is it just to reassure us paranoid antisocial riders, that the anti-wear stuff is there as it should be? (btw, Wally carries some cheap-ass SH-rated oil for "high-mileage vehicles). Also why is it that the oils with higher API ratings, like SM, do not meet SG, or even SH for that matter? The other issue would be that even though the low-viscosity grades are the only ones that need to meet low-zinc/phosphorus requirement, what guarantees that other grades will have normal levels? For now I have a stock of good SG-rated m/c oil that will last maybe 4-5 more oil changes. But I'm curious what will happen with ACEA, API, JASO, and SG. We're probably more concerned than Luigi...

That's scary. Wonder if Luigi forgot to grease other parts, or didn't put enough because he'd just run out of it.

Very sad to hear about drknow's passing. I'm fairly new on this site and how could I forget his avatar (which I found very cool--I even commented about it with him). He's replied to some of my very first questions here. I saw a pic of him on SoCal forum. Sure would have enjoyed meeting him along with other Guzzi folks as I've been thinking of attending the MG meet in Cali. Condolences to family and friends. R I P drknow.

PM sent.

Yes, I remember a recent post about lots of bikes being brought in at Moto I. lately with worn tappets and camshafts. That's why until somebody figures out exactly how the non-SG new m/c oils stack up against the SG ones, I'll stay away from non-SG in my bike. I understand that MI also chose to stick with SG although Luigi/Piaggio may say "SG or higher". Maybe that applies to ACEA ratings ...

Sorry to go back on this, but I misread your question. I guess anywhere where you don't see SG, at least for motorcycles, it means the SM doesn't meet SG. But maybe it's different for cars. Why would they make Mobil 1 for motorcycles that meets SG? I would say that to be safe, if an earlier rating I need isn't mentioned, I wouldn't use that oil. Even if Luigi tells me I can... And of course I was thinking of Mobil 1 for motorcycles that tested very well (Amsoil is bragging about that test since their motorcycle oils came pretty much on top). Mobil 1 was just about as good in many respects.

In a test of motorcycle oils done by Sport Rider a few years ago, Mobil 1 ranked very high in most categories (that test may still be online).

Northbound on Orchard Ave this morning: beautiful cherry LeMans Speaking of Guzzis: nice to read the ending of Aaron Frank's article on bike wrenching in the latest issue of Motorcyclist.

Thanks John! I thought about the temp sensor and will do it. Also recently I've seen a pic you posted on this forum of how the hose and tipover valve must be positioned (kind of hard to figure if you just look underneath the tank). I'm thinking of securing somehow the tipover valve in its correct position so that it won't shift because of vibration/shocks. The tank insulation looks perfect, except for the sides, where it's just started to peel off a bit, so I'll glue it back to be safe. I checked the taillight wire a while ago, and it seemed fine, but I'd like to make sure it won't rub against the plastic hole in the horiz. panel under the rear cowl.

I remember Greg's recent post about the SG oils, and I think it was related to unexpected cam wear. This goes with what Dave says in Guzziology about the lack of anti-wear additives in the new API grades that no longer include SG in the range of grades they meet. Until we find out exactly how the non-SG new oils meet the motorcycle specific demands for anti-wear compounds, I'll stick with SG. Interesting story you posted. Where did you find that info? One thing I remember reading somewhere is that the ACEA regulations are much better than API when it comes to anti-wear elements. In other words, API tends to sacrifice the anti-wear components in order to protect the catalyst. It may be that a non-SG oil that meets ACEA is as good as SG.